MilesFox

Hello. Are you parting off a donor car for the engine and harness? Are you building a motor? Welcome:)

the forester is actually based on the impreza frame. going with outback struts accomplishes the same thing as forester struts. The struts are physically longer, , but you will be using your original springs. I went the route of forester struts on a legacy. It was fine other than the rear springs were too short for the travel of the longer strut, but outback or forester springs would have fixed that. on the outback legacy, at least, and most likely forester(please confirm) that there are spacers between the frame and the body to allow for the exta lift and maintain the suspension geometry. suppose you can find thise at a junkyard. or just find or make some 1' spacers and use slightly longer bolts. good luck and have fun, i would suggest checking out http://www.dirtyimpreza.com for advice based on tried and true and trial and error experiences with mix'n'match suspensions

i have seen this water pipe develop leaks due to rust pinholes. also, the o-ring in the radiator water pipe may be bad at the water pump. try loosening the mounting bolt and shoving the pipe closer the the WP. OR just replace the o-ring, if you do find it's leaking there

are you sure, the duty c that disengages the rear clutch is electrical. i may be wrong, but i would think as long as the car had a battery, you can tow with the FWD fuse. what if you let the car idle while in tow?

due to heat and age, hoses getting hard and brittle. Have the vital small hoses replaced at 100,000 miles. most failures are due to overheats, caused by coolant loss, caused by old and brittle hoses under and behind things.

300,000 miles

i bet on cheap belts, or a bent flange on the oil pump pulley, or to eliminate any trouble first, the tensioner is on its way out. Tensioners can and do seize. for the sae of simlicity, change them out, and more than likely eliminate the problem. your oil leaks are more likely the cam seal. you can remove the cam pulle bolts and re torque them with the belts on. not too tight, or they may break

you can remove the rear portion of the diriveshaft, leaving the front portion in to keep all the trans fluid from leaking out. the bolts are designed to be loosened from the nut side, as the head of the bolt will be stopped in place by the casting of the yoke. you do not need a wrench on the bolt heads until you unthread enough of it that it wiggles past the casting.

any ea82 dual range trans is a direct bolt in. you will need a 3.90 diff with your donor trans, as yours is already a 3.7 gear, and the dual range was only 3.9(unless you find an rx trans, full time dual range with diff lock for turbo 3.7)) you will also need 23 spline axles for any non turbo to go with your dual range trans. you will need the dual range shifter, as it does not have the pushbotton mechanism. you can still use your original driveshaft, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and transmission mounts. the swap is covered, just search dual range swap or conversion and you will find lots of threads

unequal axles. break traction, and the car walks to the side of the road. I experienced this in a toyota corolla, and a hyundai elantra. New snow tires almos corrected the torque walk in the elantra, but it was still present if i romped it enough. I was most impressed driving a saab 900 in the snow, it was stick straight and true like any subaru i have ever had, and it has equal length axles. subaru was a good design, based on fwd anyway, with all of the motor entirely forward of the front axles. subaru pioneered FWD at least in the american market, save for the duesenberg and the toronado/riviera, when most japanese vehicles were still rear drive at the time. Hence the U.S. Ski Team sponsorship.

check the small coolant hoses behind the throttle and under the intake. to replace coolant, you have to add coolant to the radiator cap, not the overflow. the overflow bottle only serves to contain boiled over coolant versus letting it spill on the ground. with all the reading about 2.5 headgasket, people are assuming their ea81 and ea82 engines are sprouting external headgasket leaks, wgen in most or all cases, is never the case, since it is not the same type of failure as the 2.5, but rather an overlooked hose under or behind the intake.

coolant temp sensor

snow tires do wonders! at least a FWD subaru has equal length axles, and no torque steer when the wheels slip, like a lot of transverse engine cars. and just because its not a 4wd subaru doesnt mean that it wont do better than all front wheel drive cars!

UGGGH only if they are falling out of the sky!!. give it to me if you throw it out. I have the last ea82 on earth, at least in my region. sounds like blown head gasket. easy to fix. dont wasete a still good motor if you can fix it yourself. what if you get a junkyard engine and it blows a head gasket? i have fixed these motors in WAY WAY WAY worse condition.

with the engine on a stand, and the timing belts off, you can chuck a 12mm socket in a drill and operate the oil pump this way to pump through. ATF is good. so is kerosene

^^^ i bet this part is missing (how do you turn off the filter keys< sorry about the caps>>>

more likely one of the little coolant hoses on or under the intake.

look under the seat

i thought about making a Milwaukee Regional/Subaru alliance thread in the meet n' greet. remember to keep it clean. like i have said before, the off-topic had been closed before due to unnecessary post-whoring.

Did you own this car for the past years, or are you paying overdue registrations caused by the previous owner? in wisconsin, it costs 75 to register a car. if you register late, its a 10 dollar fee(after 30 days of renewal date), or you can issue a NEW plate number for the normal fee on the registration form, you can verify that the car has not been operated on public highways from this date to this date, if you went a while on renewing the plates.

your highest compression pistons are going to be 9.5 in mpfi non turbo xt and maybe a rare gl-10 or special order gl. you will want to look for xt's for 1997. or, if ordering pistons from a supplier, specify 87 xt non turbo mpfi otherwise, all of the spfi pistons will be 9.0 from 1986 gl-10 and 87.5 and up gl/dl/loyale with SPFI

Hope you get a good payout. seems like that is the current trend, as i know more people who have gotten crashed into and paid than i have had cars recently. should you decide to keep it, i do have a complete dashboard, airbag system, steering column fender and bumper for this car. It's yours for your offer if you want to make it an excuse to visit milwaukee.

that's how it goes sometimes. when i lifted my turbo wagon (trashwagon 4) i rolled it over on my first drive. my current project will totally be a garage queen

Silver fox as a sedan, trash3door as a coupe, trashbrat and trashback(ea81hatch)are also viable. there are somewhat specific parameters that qualify a car for a trashwagon designation. stage 1, paint and exterior, the 2 tone paint job, and 3 point lighting system(fog, driving, and rooftop for tall grass), dual whip antennae stage 2, interior mods such as carpeted or in tom's case, camo door panels headliner, etc, interior swaps such as retrofits, seat covers, lights, buttons, and swithces, roof mounted amp or van console. stage 3, suspension or engine mods, preferrably retrofits from newer models, that can use unmodified factory parts as replacements. "stage 4, or even stage 0" provided the car was rough enough, anything you can do tho the car with saws, rivets, welds, would not compromise the original value of the car to start with. Such as hot rolled sheet metal armor fastened to the side of the car with sheetmetal screws, and aluminum road signs in lace of floor/trunk panels. somewhat to do with the original concept would be a rough beat up car with a nice clean interior. 'trashwagon 1(onofficial)' was an 87 cavalier. Then i got my first soob. then i got a ford pinto, painted it like i had my pinto, and hence the official designation of 'trashwagon3' was born, and they have all been soobs since then thru 10. tom's car should tecnically be TRASHAGON8MKII, as it is the same model of car as the original trashwagon 8. There has been a relipca of trashwagon 5, and there are a few other wagons, if designated, we would have a trashwagon 14 by now. http://www.trashwagon.com for history.

The clutch should engage lower towards the floor. Chanced are the cable is too tight. too often someone replaces a clutcu, and makes the cable too tight, stretching the pressure plate. find the clutch cable under the hood. back it off if it's too tght. It should lonly be tight enough to take the play out of the fork-that's it. If you are contending with a hill holder, you make the clutch cable ajustment first, then adjust the hill holder. If the hill holder is too tight, the rear brakes will stick after pulling forward from a reverse maneuver.