MilesFox

once you cut off the head of the bolt, the torque will be released, and the remaining shank should just turn out by hand

find a disty from a turbo model as it will have a D shape shaft, and the rotor will turn without the screw, as long as it doesn't raise up off the shaft. plug and play disty, if the pigtail connector is different, the pigtail is swappable

dealer installed option, standalone unit

Headgaskets issues are cause by overheats, and do not occur on their own like the newer model subarus. Overheats are duel to lack of cooling system maintenance, either old coolant, old water pump, corroded radiator, neglected hoses/blowouts/leaks, due to no maintenance the ea82 will last over 300,000 miles on its own if it's not cooked

another 200,00k 26-28 mpg yes turbos requre a bit more maintenance, non turbo is dead simple weak points are the timing belts every 60,ooo miles, although they can last longer. due to age, the radiator may need attention. the rest of the car is simple to maintan, and parts are interchangable between 85-94 gl/dl/xt(alcyone vortex)rxII and loyale

1ts a 14mm nut. the plastic cap comes off. tighten the nut. if this does not or the shaft is stripped, place a split lockwasher between the nut and that will do it.

may have an air bubble in the block. try filling plock from the hoses first, then the radiator. run the car till the thermostat opens. the water pump may be bad or inefficient

beware 85-87-89, since hete were gl hatchbacks that were ea81 and brats as well. this is true when shopping for parts at the auto stores

i don't know. some people are turned off by stick on stuff. I suppose let the buyet decide as not to make a goof trying to remove it.

you can as long as you understand the function of the procedure. if the belts are loose, you would hear a knocking sound and backlash in the cams and distributor. there are rubber plugs on the fornt of the belt covers that you can poke a finger in and periodically inspect the belts, and check your work. do it when you are changing oil to monitor it.

Go with the SPT from the dealer, as it is tuned with the car. Other generic makes will affect the helmholz resonator with the MAF. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1029234&page=9

i use offset box wrenches. if you remove the pitch stopper and its mount, you can get at it with a 3/8 ratchet and a deep socket. be care ful not to round the bolt and have a good 6 side socket with a ratchet, as the heads on the bolts are short, and you want the tool on squarely. I use a pipe on my ratchet, or slip a box wrench over the end of it for leverage if necesary.

you would have to remove the interior panel in the rear, and take up the back seat, and rocker panel plastic trim on the sides, and you should be able to get at it without too much difficulty, if it is indeed broken. you can remove the rear panel to at least inspect the cabe mechanism otherwise pop a quarter or a credit card into the fuel door to pop it open

use the CRC MAF cleaner spray, and replace the PCV valve. The oil cap must seal proeprly, as it contains the breathing system.

there are holes on the face of the cam pulleys, that if you can fashion a spanner tool by using a flat bar with holes drilled in it and studs, you can take the slack from the belts. i usuaally grip the pulley by hand and turn it the direction where it pulls the driven side of the belt tight, and then drop the tensioner. when installing, loosen both bots on the tensioner, but do not remove them, swint he tensioenr away from the belt and tighten the top bolt. once the belt is on, take the slack from the belt and loosen the bolt so the tensioner comes in contact, and you can even push thensioner to the belt when tightening down. if you go the extra step to take off the pulley, the cam seal is easy to do. there is a retainer to remove that you can chage the seal off the car, and then reinstall the retainer. loosen or tighten the bolts with the belt on the pulley. be careful with the 10mm bolts as they can brealk with too much torque. use a 1/4 dr ratchet and go nand tight, and then no more than 1/8 turn if not using a torque wrench

^^^ This is so very true with subarus in their unique design. They are also tricky to bleed, that when the radiator is full, there could be an air pocket in the engine. This will be true with combustion into the coolant ans it pushes coolant out and forms the bubble, and then you beleed it again until it does it again. I have had better than 75% results with a block sealer, the 'liquid glass kind" according to the information on this forum, i would suiggest using the subaru cooling conditioner from the deale, and replace the thermostat, and executing the coolant fill/bleed procedure described in this forum search results. replacing a head gasket would be more of a permanent fix, as the gasket has been revised, and any new one you buy would sumercede the one in your car

i would think the dots on the back represent the other side as its at an angle into the oil, and correlates with the front, which will be offset on the other side. The dipstick should fit better one way than the other, older soobs had an arrow pointing out, i would think dipstick orientation would matter for accuracy.

Find an effective way to remove it:confused:

Welcome oldschool! this car is simple to maintain, sometimes tedious, but easy to do. auto or stick? your car is compatible with any 85-94 of the same body style for suspension, trans, and body. the sedan and 3door have the same fender, hood, frontend as the wagon. your car if not turbo is an SPFI engine, plug and play from any back to 88 If the rear main is not leaking, you could let it go, but if you service it, be meticulus with the install, and so some searching about rear main seal, as a bad installation can cause it to leak or pop out. There may be a groove on the crank, but you can set the seal somewhwere past it. Do not bottom out the seal, it should be flush with the crankcase. beware the rust, it likes to form in the rear rocker sills behind the mudflaps, behind the rear of the front fenders, and the framerails under the font, and the rear quarters. if you powerwash the car, open the doors and spray into the fender from the front door, and spray out the bottom of the doors to clean the little drain holes and dirt from the rubber seal. I wish you another 100,000 miles!

If you are aware of critical service intevals like the timing belt, coolant, and tips and tricks like the oil screen in the banjo bolts, any subaru would have maximum reliability. If you kept the (turbo) car up in good maintenance, you could get a good price if you decide to sell it later, to someone who really wants one.

less rusty and seam welds 5 lug hubs before electrolysis exhaust shiles after electroloysis por15 suspensions and brake lines

Going back togethetr now. I had the brake line looms apart, electrolyted, por15'd, and reassembled with syl-glide in the clims. Ummy-Nummey ooey-gooey 1986ness going on here factory fresh! The car is ready to receive the gas tank. I am grinding it down to por15 and undercoat the top of it, and replace the sending unit nuts with stainless steel The suspension is assembles, but the bolts are not torqued. I need to find my brake parts laying around, while i install the backing plates, and the hubs at least to let iof off the jacks once i torque it. I undercoated the bushings and the tight spots of the suspension tube and trailing arms. I slathered anti-seize on the bolts threads, heads, nuts, and inside the bushing sleeves. I am stealing the stainless steel factory fuel clamps form under the hood of an xt6 to use in place of the screw clamps. I am going to make the car driveable once i replace the flexible rubber brake lines, and then tackle the inside of the rear quarters, wheel wells, and drive the car between before doing the front, as i need to find 23 spline doj's to throw on the xt6 axles.

grab the maplights as they are brighter. try to get the rubber piece on the door that goes with the mudflaps. the clock and the trip computer are worth grabbing for the usmb, and the l-shaped door handles are bonus; getting rare if you can have at it wioth tis car, grab the swaybars. you can swap the trailing arms disc and all and have the swaybar mounts. if you can get me the swaybar mount shackles and the bushings in the rear, let me know what you want for it, as i am missing those in my car

"art of subaru maintenance" episodes 8 and 9 on youtube. find the 'timing belt check and replacement' article in the search on the USRM if you are reading the haynes manual, beware that the illustrations do not depict the 360 deg crank rotation, although it is in the text, but in british translation! good luck.

Perhaps the diff was from a 94 legacy. this would make sense. if the gear ratios are wrong, you could swap the ring gears onto the LSD with the one you have/need. I believe the 94 legact turbo sedans were 3.9 rear with vlsd, and this would be correct gear for a dual range(non turbo) if you are lkucky to find a RX dual range full time, snatch it up, it is the same 3.7 gear as yours, entirely plug and play