MilesFox

The least you could do is save the 4eat for another car with a bad trans. The idea would work in a car that was originally like yours/an automatic, but say, one that is currently a 3at with no 5spd to install. the 4eat is not bad in all it's rights. For most of my cars ever being stick shift, the 4eat is better than what i am used to with automatics. You can trick the TCU into having power and manu modes. The rear diff should work, bolt up the same, maybe there is parts you can carry over, and i am thinking that the diff can mount to the ea82 tubeframe, and the legacy rear x-member would bolt up or locate to the diff hanger area, and then it's on you to make a hybrid strut, or chop in a weheel well, since yours is made of fiberglass and por-15 When the donor trashEDoutback goes to the chopping block, i think it would be worth cutting the strut towerrs out of for mock-up purposes

be aware of what you are shopping for . there is no timing belt for a 1.6. for this reason i believe you have a 1985 wagon with ea82 motor. this has an overhead cam(OHC) and is 1.8 only, although was turbo and spfi, and your engine shares the same for 85-94 dl/gl/gl-10/rx/xt/loyale Not to be confused with an ea81 engine, overhead valve(OHV) and has a 1.6 liter variaont(ea71) and is pushrod. This is typical for 80-84 wagons, sedans, and 79-87 brat, and thru 89 for hatchback. be careful that you get the right part, as there are overlaps of both platforms for 85-89 listings, and can be somewhat vague at the parts counter.

Subaru Alliance unite! This is the Milwaukee regional thread for the USMB:banana: Keep up on what is happening in Milwaukee. Remember, please keep the contexts and subjects clean for USMB, so everyone can join in our activities. We are hoping to see some new faces and some new cars! For you WI folks just stumbling in from the Google searches, we are your local Subaru folk if you ever need anything. Where you all at? I got the 3door to move under its own power, no fuel leaks. The rear 5 lug brakes are working, hill older is great, backing plate is rubbing the rim. I tried to get the camper running today, but removed the coil instead. The xt6 has the front crossmember dropped down. There will be room to park up a car once i make a spot for my 3door at home. MAy be going to clint's on friday to fix timing belts TOM, SCOTT, BEN, DESMOND, CLINT, where you at?

might as well do the little hose, too, or it will go. Your subaru will like yummy new hoses

MAybe the filler tube has a leak. This is more common. There is a shield over the filler tube. Remove it, and inspect for rust.

You can run the wire to a circuit or fuse panel that comes on with the key. PLEASE don't break your instrument bezel. the CLOCK has to come out to get the radiao screws. You would break the bezel if you did not know this. The ecu is in the trunk. I beleive the relays are near it. you can tie into the ign circuit there.

Sounds like you are doing it right. The flooded cylinders scares me. The injectors should ground at the ECU, and are live on the power end. Let's hope there is not a short to ground somewhere. The fuel pump cycles on and of with the green plugs connected, but only runs when cranking or running without them. The fuel pump kicks on for 2 sec when the key is turned on. Can you replicate the flooded cylinder by just cycling the key off and on? Also check fuse #5 clock/horn/hazard. Is there some aftermarket stereo in the car? if the car almost starts, turn the disty more clockwise to advance the timing. it's possible that the disty is a tooth off. you can almost feel 'in between' gears if you lift ut up just enough to barely turn it, and you will cath that 'middle' tooth, and sometimes this is the difference of the timing being correct or not. If the car starts by turning the disty, but there is no more room to turn it some more, then this may be your case.

I think that may be the engine temp sensor. It is located near the turbo. the knock sensor wouls screw into the block. the coolant temp sensor threads into the intake. Timing should be set at 25 deg btdc for 1986 mpfi

tape a quarter over the hole.

suppose there is rust in the rear quarter cargo hold. I had a problem with my yellow light, and the problem was a corroded wire where the sender harness passes thru the cargo hold, under the metal plate. This is where the plug is for the sender unit, it's a good place to check out for trouble.

bolts with nuts would be 10mm x 1.25. the donut gasket should have a spring bolt kit. you can use whatever will fit in the holes

make sure all the tires are the same size, and ask when the timing belt was last done, if done, and whatever maintenance papers they have. If the car is clean and not rusted, or beat up, snatch it up for a good price. high mile cars tend to reflect the maintenance performed to last that long. this kind of miles on this car would be worth about $1000-$1500 to buy used.(maintained and not trashed)

Maybe you knocked off the vacuum canister line. Easy to do, easy to miss. It connects on the left side of the intake, and go to the vacuum canister. If your heater vents only work in the dahs vents, then this would be the problem. Just a suggestion

culd possibly be a crank angle sensor, based on my experience. engine codes should reveal the problem.

you dont want this too tight. it should only be tight enough to take the slack out of the bushing. Adjust it properly and get used to the pedal feel. Otherwise, too high or too stiff a paeal(too tight a cable) will ruin the pressure plate. If it is much diferent than what you have been used to before you had the clutch replaced, this was probably due to the original clutch being too tight and slipping to a degree. 1. adjust the clutch cable to take the slack out of the fork 2. adjust another 1-3 turns for your desired pedal 3.then adjust the hill holder

until we understand the circumstances how you got this car, and it's history, i could only assume the timing belt alignment or timing may be off if you got the car in its current condition, and off due to an attempted repair

Non-interference for any ea82, good to go!. We just got a 86 gl with a broken timing belt for 200, and fixed it on the trailer with spare parts. easy enough to do. ditch the timing belt covers for easier serviceability. Water pump has no operation with the timing belt with an ea82 motor. make sure to follow the correct procedure for installing new ones.

check fuse number 5, see if its blown. you can probably make the car run if you backfed 12v into the solid green wire. happened to me, backfed with a toggle, drove like this for months, and then discovered fuse #5 and replaced it.

maybe someone repaired the belts and installed them wrong, and sold it to you. if so, either the disty is 180 deg off, or the cams are out of phase, which happens when you skip the 360 deg crank rotation after installing the first belt. look up the ea82 timing belt article and follow the motions, start from there. save yourself the trouble and remove all of the t-belt covers and leave them off. remove the inside covers behind the cam pulleys. http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2724

If this car runs and drives no problem, then change all the hoses if they are old and brittle. A mild overheat can cause a headgasket issue. headgaskets are not the end of the world, and can be fixed rather easily. You decide how much of a project you are looking for. You will be limited to upgrades, but they can be done with intercoolers and turbos from leater soobs. DO NOT OVERBOOST this engine, or you will be wasting a good car.

Old hoses and corroded radiator. worn or corroded coolant temp sensor. Timing blelts if they are old, and the tensioners. These are things that can cause failure due to lack of maintenance. Takce care of these items before they fail you and the car will last many miles Trans has a 3.7 final gear, and a 25 spline axle, should you want to swap in a dual range trans, you will need a 3.9 rear and a 23 spline axle. the rest of the car is based off any 85-94 dl/gl/xt/loyale

I can only imagine what you mean in terms way outside of your intended contectt! Please tell me there is no squatting involved... *quick google search.....* Is this a supercharger?

turbo or non? order belts for a non ps, non ac, 1986 1.8 gl ohc. There are 3 belt sizes. you will be using the shortest of them. The shortest belt is the one already on the outside pulley. just have 2, and you can get a dual pulley for the alternator. The trick will be mounting the alternator with no ac. You may have to salvage the ac bracket and use a threaded rod for the round compressor(outboard alt), or use the square compressor's mount(inboard alt) easiest thing to do is find the alt bracket from a non ac model, and retrofit. use the shortest belt

Ok then i misread that. Put the spfi heads on the mpfi block. basically, swap the heads, keep the ones that fit tha manifold, use whatever block you can find

Brakes are dual-diagonal. The hill holder holds pressure to the rear wheels whenever the clutch and rear brake are depressed. Try holding down the clutch pedal when bleeding thebrakes. If you have a front caliper off, bleed the rear brake on the opposite side at the same time, starting from the rear. bleed all the way around RR, LF, LR, RR, and try pressing the clutch when do ing hte rear. look for leaks at the hill holder.