MilesFox

Offer 1200 for the car, and offer 300 for someone to install anew belt, or take the effort to do the belt yourself. Otherwise, offer 1500-1700(book value) if your boss had the timing belt done for you. Timing belt needs replaced, but is not broke,. It may last another 25,000 miles. If it's not broken already, it's not broken. And, there will be no damage if it does let go.

Spray some wd/40 on all the plug boots, and the coil boots.

zip ties, wire coat hangers. I have had my fuel pump fall off while off-roading. if you watch my videos, you will most likely see the fuel pump near hanging on the ground in any following shots. I suppose one could mount one under the hood, if you aren't afraid of potential fire hazards(like older ea81's)

I have run mpfi turbo on a carb ea82 block with 9.0:1 compression. You should be ok with stock parameters. You can save yourself all the work and find a solid shortblock from a carb ea82.

There are holes on the rear trailing arm right by the pivot bushing, and where the backing plate bolts to. The holes for the backing plate bolts goes through, and i am going to inject a shot of oil into them at i bolt them up, since i welded up the open ends. The rest of the seam welding is simply to melt any overlapping stampings together to prevent rust from forming in between and de-laminating the metal. I found gravel powder packed into the brake line retainer ears. I cleaned them out with a pick and welded them up, to 'seal' out rust with the weld. Also, on the shock mount, i welded up the stampings to prevent crust from sitting on the insides and rusting the stampings on the inside opposite of the welds.

and the babies can thread tiny bolts

I would be down to help. I used to be the 'Traveling Subaru Mechanic' back in the day. Good excuse for me to get back into it, i suppose. I am also after a 4wd trans for my 3door.

I started seam welding the trailing arms. I had to replace the tip on my welder to get a clean weld. I have to take pics of this yet.

I bet the timing belts are mis-aligned. The way i described the fuel lines is correct. The timing belts do not align to th TDC mark, and are 180 deg from eachother. Can you describe how you did the timing belt?

This would probably be a 1.8, better for fuel economy. Timing belt is reatively simple on this model. Less complicated than older models, and no chance for error like newer models. It is natural for a subaru engine to run best in the 2500-4500 rpm range, due to its short stroke.

The fuel pressure regulator is after the injector, on the return line. You have the fuel lines backward.

I'll be the first of many to tell you that the oil pressure gauge is not the most accurate. Generally showing near ) psi when warm , usually. There is a pinch bolt on the crank case just above the oil pump. Make sure to loosen this bolt to prevent breaking the tabs off of the 0il pump when trying to pry it out.

dont use 4wd on dry pavement. try reversing while pushing the lever down(if a dual range). Welcome to part-time 4wd

The III mRK ON THE FLYWHEEL DENOTES THAT ALL OF THE PISTONS ARE IN THE CENTER OF THEIR BORE AT THE SAME TIME. tHERE IS NO INTERFERENCE ISSUES, BUT YOU WILL WANT TO USE THIS MARK WHEN SETTING THE TIMING BELTS. sorry caps I use a brass wire wheel on the valves and pistons, since the brass is softer than the aluminum

If i may make some suggestions, it would be neat to see a proper exhaust header, and also, tubular rear trailing arms! it looks as if you had an original set as cores, you can cut the seam welds and separate the bearing hub part, and build a trailing arm with lift integrated, or at least longer to keep the caster correct with a lift kit. If you couls reprodice a y pipe, eother to spec, or something more performance oriented that fits a stock dimension, you would have a market for us in the rusty midwest. Maybe you could reproduce the 'A' style push bars for a stock appearance, new manufacture. Another great idea would be a plow mount to adapt to the subaru a universal ATV plow like cycle country or moose, with a winch mount to raise and lower, that ties in with the middle of the engine crossmember, and the tow loops on the body.

^^^ agreed. I am not saying the car is not worth getting, but you should get it for a lesser price. Go for it if you can get a good deal!

This is the same ea82t engine from any turbo gl/loyale from 85-94. What bad have you read about the rx engine? Anything you would have read bad about the RX engine would be related to overboosting. Some folks here have put a lot of time and effort, trial and error to squeezing power out of the ol' ea82t. But as a result of that, we now know its parameters, and you can get a little more out of it without compromising reliability. The main flaw by design with this engine is the heads, which are based of any other ea82 engine, but with dual ports. All in all, it seems that the ea82 should not have been a turbo by desighn, and they put 7.7:1 compression in them vs 9.0 and 9.5 in carb and spfi versions. The ea82 overseas were tuned to 135 frm the factory out of the box. This engine does not like boost modifications, but there are successful mods using the right parts, but by all means, this is an engine you mix and match for, since there is NO AFTERMARKET bolt- on part. This engine can go 300,000 miles with good care. Oh, to answer your first question again, the engine is the same as any other ea82 turbo in the rx, gl turbo, and gl-10 if you need specific parts. Timing belts, water pumps, and steering/alt/ac are common between all variants. Body and suspension parts are common between all variants/sedans/wagons/coupe/xt. Aside from this car being the cleanest gl-10 turbo ever, you can get parts for it the same as a rusted out 200 dollar gl sedan. again, 5000 is way too much for this car. A car this clean with as low miles should be preserved as a classic. If you do get this car, please, keep it very nice so the next generation can see an old subaru at a classic car show! If you are into it for a project, pick a less immaculate candidate. And please, dont's take anyone's opinions one way or the other too seriously as your decision to buy this car(or one like it) but rather go by doing your researc (as there is a lot to read!) to make your decision.

This is an interesteing notion, considering the EA82 was originally propposed to be a 2.o in the development phase, or that a 2.0 ej was based on ea bores.

How did we all not know this before? Good point of discovery, since i just read that an ej20 has the same bore diameter as the 1.8 ea81/82. It would be nice to see a history writeup if enough research can be done, and enough material discovered.

The car can be reliable wit the right attention to maintenance. Anything bad you have read about the engien, is due to lack or or maintenance such as hoses blowing out or leaky seals. Not horrible, but the motor is 115 hp out of the box. Don't expect it to break right away. Folks will tell you to do an ej22 swap. This car has the right diameter axles and the dip in the crossmember to fit impreza trans and turbo engines. Don't expect to be able to mod this car, but it can be great as it is. 5000 is way too much for that cat. You can buy a restored brat for that cost. Rust free in the northeast is good, though. But a car this clean out west with miles on it can be had for a few hundred bucks. This car with low miles should not cost more than 2500 If you are buying this car to do a swap, you can get a non runner for 200 bucks, and save the 5000 dollars and get wrx motor and driveline.

And thus, you now know what to use to pull engine codes. 5 single flashes is an identity code, wether cali or 48 state, mt or auto, etc..

a 5spd would have better gear spacing. a 4spd, you would probably be mostly using 3rd gear all the time

give the idlers and tensioners more precedence than the water ump. With proper coolant maintenance, the water pump should last till the next timing belt. They usually hod out to 225,000 miles on the average older ej22. Do the cam and crank seals. It will most likely not be necessary to change the oil pump, if it is not acting up as it is. Of course, my suggestions are based on how much you want to pay for parts, since the idlers/tensioner/belt set would be the most expensive of the parts. Otherwise, if the cost of parts is not an issue, now would be the time to do them if you have them ready to go.

Do some searching on the ea81/ea82 lifts, as the dimensions are posted somewhere. I think its some 1.5 inches for every 3 in of lift. I am not sure, but it may be something you can do some math to calculate. Otherwise the suspension geometry should remain the same relative to itself.

Problem is most likely under the hood. You did not state that your heater is working properly. Look for the skinnt hose from the vac can that adapts to a larger one onto the intake. it will be along the passenger side strut.