MilesFox

if the switch is stuck, try reversing the vac lines at the diaphragm to engage 4wd. you can go back and forth with 4wd by doing this. Or you may be able to swap the electrical connecotors at the solenoids them selve. Electrically, you would have a 2 solenoids ganged together with a dula throw single post swithc, with one on, and one off respectively at the same time. The solenoids that actuate 4wd will have one on, and the other off to pull the diaphragm one way or the other. There is no way the 4wd would not engage by moing the diaphragm rod, uless someone tried to engage 4wd whle doing burnouts and stripping the pto gear to the rear driveshaft, or by doing clutch drops as RWD with the absence of a front axle and busting the gear..

Unless you saw inside the car4, it is probably a 4eat automatic. if it is a 5spd d/r, your clue would be a 3.700 rear diff. This car would have rear disc brakes, and a dual row radiator at least. It would also have a 60 amp alt.

They swap out the same one way or the other. The physical difference between the 2 would be the diff mount in the center.

Does the car run better cold than it does warm? If so, suspect the engine temp sensor located near the tubo on the back of the intake. cylinder #4 is going to be the front one on the driver side.

use carb cleaner, as the chlorine in the bra-kleen can ruin the rubber seals.

I generally leave my car unlocked, as to not have a broken window, and don't leave anything in the car as a target. Someone got in my brat and took a book bag with nothing in it.they left a boom box, flashlight, title on the floor, screwdriver, and never noticed my ign cylinder hanging out. If the thief was smarter, he could have taken my whole car, title and all. my mistake was leaving the bag in the car.

Can you turn the crank with a 22mm socket?

^^^^^^very true^^^^^^

The subaru engine is most efficient and happy between 2500 and 3500 rpm. the gears are spaced that you rev out to about 3500, and the rpm lands at about 2000-2500 during upshifts. anything below 1500 rpms is lugging the bottom end, and is not recommended. the engine has a short throw and big pistons, and by horizontal arrangement is very balanced, and is designed for mid rpm operation typical cruising rpm at highway speeds is anywhere between 2700 and 3200 rpm you may find you will get better fuel economy at 65mph than 55 mph because of this.

if you can pop the grille out, you should be able to feel around for the end of the cable behind the hood latch and actuate it manually. once the hood is open, you can rig a coat hanger as a pull rod. the grill is secured by plastic screws on the top, and pegs on the bottom. if you are careful with a flat screwdriver, you may be able to pop out the plastic screws, and pull the top of the grille forward, up, sand out.

Sounds like you have a bad inner joint on the axle, or a bad wheel bearing. could just need ball joints, tie rods, nreg. maitenance. How many miles on the car? 4wd?

it bolts right in. long block is the same, but you will have a lower compression with a carb long block. eliminate the egr on the carb block and plug the holes on the side of the exhaust port. Use the spfi egr and it's pipe where it screws to the top of the head. The egr ports on the side of the heads exhaust ports is what North Wet is referring to about the egr being different

use FWD rear coilovers on a 4wd car and you get some lift. The mounting point on a FWD rear trailing arm is lower, thus a longer strut. Longer strut plus higer mount on 4wd trailing arm = about 2 inches.

Do some research about the inner seal of the knuckle vs xt6/legacy axle. I had the same issue fitting legacy axles with xt6 hubs. you should not have to modify any axles, as the right combination will fit now that the brat essentially has ea82 front geometry. What you did in your phitos with the crossmember is exactly what i was mentioning. I am glad to see pictures of it for reference! You are correct about having a narrower rear that does not change with ea82 trailig arms. Depending on your intended driving environment, you can re-clock or loosen the tension for the torsion bar. Ea82 has no torsion bar, so you either have doubled up suspension, or you can lessen the force of the torsion bar and rely on the ea82 coilover. Supposedly as i have read, 05 legacy rear coilovers have gone back to that style that the eyelet on the bottom will fit, you can fab to suit the top mount, or use an ea82 mount if you have that fitted already. You may be able to find info about using later model rear brakes by modifying a backing plate to fit your control arms, and use the 5 lug hubs you have already.

Subarus are like old motorcycles, that you put some gas in them, and it will run better the more you run it. I could imagine the car was grossly out of tune, and is all carboned up from before. Driving it now that it is correct is blowing all the carbon out the exhaust, or re-moisting vital passages and seals. Try a can of sea foam if you have not already. Administer it to the IAC and in through a vacuum line. Suck out most of the can and turn the car off. let it sit for 20 min and take it for a 'spirited drive'

the car should have a 3at. if the car is turbo it has a 3at trans with 23 spline, same as a 5spd and n/a 3at. n/a has a 3.9 gear and a turbo has a 3.7 gear. If you find a donor car for a new trans, take the rear diff with it, if the final gear is different than what comes on your car. The gear is identified by a plaque on the rear diff cover.

I realized this was an old post half way through typing my response. I clicked 'submit reply' anyway as far as contributing to the archival factor of this post. I came upon it viewing the 'who's online' section...... No i am not snowed in, as there is no snow. That is why i am inside on my computer. If we had any snow, i would be out on my ploaris ATV making some $$$ with its plow:headbang:

The VSS will have to be connected or the engine won't rev out all the way. simply tap into the vss wire on the back of he speedo. you should be able to get at ut from under the dash.

NOPE. The engines and trans in the xt/xt6 are in the same location. The xt/xt6 share the same floorpans as any ea82(coupe/sadan) and it's the additional space under the hood that allows for the er27 6 cyl engine. In the 4 cyl models, you can remove the engine without pulling the radiator, since it sits farther forward relative the the engine crossmember. the er27 will bolt in place the same in any ea82 car, except there will be no more room for the radiator i it's original location. The er27 engine is basically an ea82 with 2 more cylinders at the rear, that will be at the top or bottom of their stroke when the remaining 4 pistons are at the center of their bores.

The rest of the 95% that 'don't listen' especially to GENERAL DISORDER, are most likely the ones who live in the rust belt, and know that cars rusting is a fact of life, and dont have the means, want, or desire to move to the PNW just for a rust free car. If one were to bring a PNW car to the rust belt, guess what? IT WILL RUST (fact of life) this should be a separate thread by now. "Wasting your time on rusty cars when you can get one in the PNW, or anywhere else that is not the rust belt(PNW, The South [the least populous areas of the USA], and EA82's are a waste of time), says Rick" And if one's time is worthless to fix up a car, another's time is worthless to spew opinions on an internet forum ad infinitum. Post Whorring for lack of rust to repair? If there were some known true facts in this world, they would be: Death Taxes Cars rust GD, you really haven't contributed to this post other than to state your opinion on what you deem as a waste of time, vs what dude can do with these 2 cars. Drive one of them, i believe, would be the desired result of the efforts involved. Dead topic, i am done now. Whether or not i have 5 points by now. Don't take me personally as i am not intending to make anyone mad or start a flamewar:popcorn:

Do searches for EJ25D and that should point you in the right direction. Also, look on the wikipedia article for "subaru ej" engine, and see if the "ej25d" matches the year and market for the production of your car.

PA is not on the west coast. Soobs were least populqr in the rust belt, and too abundant in the PNW. If you were native to the rust belt, you would work with whqt you have, or do without. Eventially, the subarus that are left in the PNW will be too rare to just throw away. If subarus fell out of the sky in the rust belt, one could be more picky. Don't assume that everthing always costs money. That isa where resourcefulness or ambition comes in. If anyone native to the PNW had to work on cars in the rust belt, they would probably throw in the towel the first time they had to break out the PB blaster or the hack saw. Why do you get so upset anytime someone wants to resurrect an ea82? Why be on a forum that is the only resource to ea82 owners, just to tell them they are wasting their time. Maybe post in the new gen forum, if it bothers you that much. Otherwise, it is becoming REDUNDANT to read every day. REDUNDANT REDUNDANT REDUNDANT REDUNDANT REDUNDANT

does a bear use charmin in the woods?

you can make the 4spd fit, if you use an ea82 manual trans crossmember, and make a custom 4wd lever. use the 4spd clutch, flywheel, driveshaft. You will have to re-locate(match) the ign timing marks from the ea82 flywheel onto the ea81 flywheel. The 4spd will have odd gearing for the ea82 motor, with gears spaced so far apart, you will be dancing with the shifter to keep an optimum rpm, since the ea82 will want to make power at higher rpms, and there is a lot of rpm drop with upshifts in the 4spd you would be best to find a 5spd, better yet, a complete donor car