MilesFox

i would say bad wheel bearing causing the rotor to rub onthe caliper bracket or create clacking noises. Tryng to wiggle the tire wilbe vague with the wheel bearings considering they are a pair of roller ball bearings. good luck, its the kind of thing you might not confirm untill you pull the wheel bearings apart.

you do not have to pull the cams from the cases to install, but you will have to install withthe cams in a neutral position (12:00) so you can tighten them down, and aligning the timing belts will be necessary after the repair.

dont bother with opening up the bottom end. What you are likely to find when removing the heads, is all the crosshatching is still there. removing the heads will show you where the HG failed, anywhere that is shiny aluminum where the carbon was steamed off. if you have a jack, you can undo the exhaust, pitch bar, motor mounts and jack the bejeezus out of the bottom of the trans to raise the motor up above the framerails. if you can find a friend, 2 people can easily lift the motor out. take off the intake and alternator to make it light enoughif you want to wrestle it by hand. i was able to pull an engine by hand by myself using ropes and a long pipe. i will just say that the car i was takingit from was junk. use the 2nd man for help

Are you in madison, WI? the weber carb should fit ea81 and ea82 engines the same, with the adapter plate that replaces hitachi carbs. an ea82 engine will fit under the hood and bolt up as well, with a few tricks, easlily enough. if you are indeed madison wisconsin, follow us (Subaru Alliance) here: http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14090&highlight=milwaukee

I used a throwout bearing to install a front seal once. it was ugly, but it worked.

The valve covers are close to the framerails, making it more difficult to get tools in there. A box end ratcheting wrench works best. You can unbolt the motor mounts from the crossmember, remove the pitch bar at the top of the motor, and jack up the engine a few inches to get more clearance above the framerails, without having to disconnect anything.

make sure the axle nuts are at 145 lbft and to makesure the conical washer is not worn, and the flat washer is not installed backwards. a backwards washer will not hold torque, resulting in stripped hubs. do some reading on"axle nut" or axle washer, look at the write-ups

yeah, you would bebetter off making an offer on the whole car. anything around 2-300 is better than what the scrapyard would give for the car, if your friend ultimately decides to junk it.

make a ground strap from the radiator to the body, and the swithc will ground. you got one from an ea81 model which is designed this way.

A good radiator and waterpump will make the most out of the life of the engine. Along with that, use some good quality hoses and replace all the cooling lines that run all over the engine, especially the ones at the turbo, and the one below the thermostat housing. some folks run a colder thermostat, if you are into premium fuel and timing advance. you can retrofit an intercooler from various models to keep the temp down Run 10w 30 oil some folks will tell you the ea82t is not worth the time, or to do an ej swap, but if you have a good one that is not shagged, it doesn't take much to keep it that way. there are options for different turbos, injectors and whatnot, just don't overboost this engine, you can go to about 110-120% beyond stock parameters and be ok

On the contrary, you would have to locate the ej parts, buy a bellhousing adapter, and manually chop a harness or have one do it for you, or find someone that sells them with your core exchange. This would cost money to accomplish a swap, inless you had a legacy or impreza donor car , and drilled the flywheel and fabbed an adapter. on the contrary, you already have a turbo car for parts. You can use the engine harness, because you can use the dashboard or its harness loom to make the swap. If you have a complete donor, then you have ALL the parts you will need. This will cost you nothing, unless you are paying for the complete donor car, and for its cost. one way or the other, you can still chop down the ea82t harness as a standalone, or swap it in as it is, and make the chops into the dash harness. With my experiences in parting/building/mixing and matching subarus, there is the engine harness, the dash harness, and the body harness. you will have an engine harness based on the engine. There would be carb for 85-87, spfi for 86, spfi for 87, and spfi for 88+, 85/86 turbo mpfi, 87 turbo and mpfi, 88 turbo and spfi save for egr or not, and either of the same for spider intake with the harness on the spider intake itself being specific, but plug-in with the underhood harness. For dashboard there would be 85/86 87, and 88+ with variables being digi dash (mpfi turbo) For the entirety of the GL and Loyale line form 85/86, 87, and 88-94, all of the power and acessory circuits are contained in the main harnesses(dash), and whatever the particular car has for options will be plugged into this harness in whatever configuration. The exception to this will be the DL which does not have unused options' circuitry in the harness. The third part of the harness will be relative to Sedan, Wagon, or Coupe If you go with the swap, pull the left fender, the dash, and you will have plenty access to mix'n'match

So does brake cleaner, and gasoline. Motor oil isnt sobad, but beware the metal sparks, as you will need a Dr.'s drill to get the rusty shard out of your cornea. I used brake cleaner on an engine reseal, and i will just say, "Don't use brake cleaner on the oil pump seals!". The seals swelled up and would not fit in the groove on the back of the pump. Never again! Brake cleaner works best sprayed onto a rag if you are just trying to clean off fingerprints and grease for assembly.

Since you mentioned headgaskets, I would assume you had an overheat. An overheat may have stretched ther sensor to where it does not read accuately. I have had the cheap mechanical water temp gauges and overheated. After the overheat, the gauge would read high. The same could be true with your sensor, that it may be 'stretched out'. If the fans come on right away, the sensor may be telling the computer the car is warm all the time.

you can haz ea82 t, but you need to swap the whole engine harness form the dash forward., and use the engine crossmember from the turbo car to allow room for the up-pipe. drop the text message grammar if you want anyone else to answer your questions. other than that, if you have a comlete car to part frm, you will have all the parts. the turbo engine fits against the non turbo trans, uses same flywheel and clutch. a turbo trans will swap in all plug and play, but you will need turbo axles. there are a few trim diffeerences. you can just swap in the turbo motor, but you can go as far as swapping to full turbo spec, with digi dash and all the trim. for the effort, people wil tell you to swap an ej22. But at least with what you are asing, you can do the swap with no customization or modifying, since you are just replacing old factory parts with different factory parts that fit like they came from the factory.

take a guess........................................................

if that is an aftermarket remote start kit you have, start by making sure it does not have any loose wires, etc. the taillight issue sounds like an open ground. Does your car have a tow package?

I have an analog dash from an 87 RX. I also have a dashboard you can rob the pinouts from.

I have had the idea of an underhood aux heater core as a mini radiator.

i run open belts all day long. Have been doing so for years. Have been baja'n snow, mud, water, tall weeds open belts. once had a rock spinning around on the belt, no problem. all you would need is a a 22mm offset wrench and a deep 12mm socket and ratchet to change the timing belts anyway. remove the inside part of the overs behind the cam pulleys to make that easier. go ahead and do the oil pump seals (there are 2) while you are there. do not torque the bolts too much, use a 1/4" dr. tool and only snug them and 1/8 turn. make sure it turns freely before torquing all of the bolts down.

wait until the front axle breaks, and take it out on the side of the road. put car in 4wd and pull over to the shoulder. decide if you like left or right turns. I favor left turning because i am on the left side of the car. open the hood and remove donut wheel. install donut wheel on your favored side of the car. put original tire under hood, go find a wet parking lot. ruin your car and then kick the *************** out of yourself the next time it snows sell what's left for scrap, after you sold all of your interior on usmb, and get something that came as a RWD, like an 88 chevy s-10:lol:

pull the motor and set it in a milk crate or 5 gallon bucket for a stand. you can get away with doing the head gaskets and cam seals. Leave the rear seal alone if its not leaking, and dont even think about opening up the bottom end, because you will find the crosshatches are still there, and then you will have to contend with putting it back together and hope it was as tight as it was to begin with. head gaskets are easy enough on this car. It would be silly to do only one side. good luck

where and who did you get the car from?

I have never milled any of my heads doing head gaskets and so far have had good luck. the belts probably broke because they were old. If the tensioners didnt seize, then the belt probably just let go from having new tension on it. Just like old trailers with old tires. the tires are fine until you air them up to full pressure, and then they fail. if the oil pump spins by hand, dont worry about it. Put on new belts and see what she does. Dontbe surprised if you get another 20,000 miles out of it as it is oh, leave the covers off the timing belts. That way if you break one, you can change it off the side of the road in 20 min and keep going

I had the exact same car, listed it for $1200, sold it for $900.I had done all the wheel bearings, new alt, batt, clutch, timing belt, windshield. Body was rust free, but had deer damage. 135,000 miles is fairly low, but its also about the exact mileage the original timing belt lets go if they never have been changed. you can see his price if the car has a service history. if there is no service history, drive the price down to $600-$800 as long as there is no obvious need for work like torn axle boots or broken exhausts. If the timing belt is due or breaks, dont worry, it's cheap and easy enough to fix yourself, and does not ruin the engine(non-interference) is the car 4wd?