MilesFox

92 legacy would have a 3.9 gear. sounds like you got a turbo RX trans, turbo being 25 splines, and dual range with the lever makes it rx. There will also be a vacuum diaphragm to lock the center diff. you indeed got the most desireable transmission available! go find a lsd 3.9 rear diff and turbo 5spd axles and you are good to go. also, you can use the vacuum solenoids of pushbutton 4wd dl's and gl's for the diff lock. otherwise you could sell that trans and buy 2 of the correct ones!

fuel lines could be on backward. The fuel pressure regulator is after the injeotrs and on the return side in these cars. the topmost center fuel fitting should be the inlet side. you have to be particular with the timing sequences to get them right. When installing the belts, there will ne 2 full rotations to align the belts, and then another 3.4 rotation to set the timing. watch these videos as this may help you

There have been updates and revisions, certain combinations of heads will fit depending on the generation of engine. Some stuff is retrofittable such as timing belt tensioners. aside from that, the bellhousings are the same.

low coolant?

You should be able to find regular seatbelts in 1990 legacy and maybe early 1991's

The car is FWD based, and then kicks in the 4wd to the rear. sumply leaving the 4wd button off will leave it in 2wd. The car needs battery to engage/disengage if you are towing, you can tow 2 up with it in 2wd and be ok. Otherwise, you can remove the rear half of the driveshaft, and still drive around as 2wd. the pneumatic struts are no longer available. Regular struts are a direct replacement, and is just fine

there may be an interference with the thermostat housing, but the ports would match. You could even flip the heads around and have the erg oprt on the correct side relative to the manifold. the thermostat itself is the same diameter of a chevy, so i think an aftermarket outlet would work.

do the timing belts if there is any one cost you should invest in first. Then, you will be reliable for the rest of the upgrades.

parts listings can be vague on these cars. there are production overlaps. the 2wd one will work if it fits.

1. Do you mean the cat in the y pipe, or the one in the center section. 1-7/8" sounds right, but some sections behind the heat shield might be 1-3/4" 2. Defrost. If all your settings only blow out of the dash vents, check the vacuum hose from the vac canister to the passenger side of the intake and see if it has come off. 3.Look near the bottom half of the back seat and look for a tool pouch with an allen hex valcroed to the carpet. You should be able to manually crank down the seatbelt where ot should be, and then just manually unclip it to get in and out. 5. door lock light is on any time any one door is not locked. To lock the front door from outside, hold the handle up as you close the door, or it will pop unlocked. this is an anti-lockout design feature. The rear doors have child lockouts to prevent the door from opening from the inside

A lot of times the HH doesn work properly because it is not adjusted properly. You adjust the clutch cable first, and then the HH cable. Bleeding the brakes can be tricky, but i found that if you depress the clutch while pumping the brake, it does a better job at bleeding the rear brakes

Preferably a paved road, one that ultimately leads to the tire shop.

make sure to take off the head shields, because there are markings on the cat housing that designate the grade of metal in them. I have gotten anywhere from $3.00 to $100.oo on junk cats. German autos have the most valuable. i would say a soob cat is worth between $25 and $50

Consider an ea82 model for lowering. With such a patform you can use fwd xt struts and do some mazda miata rear coilover struts, and have some compatibility with later model subarus with some mods and the right combination of parts. the best you can do with the brat is to set the adjustable suspension to its lowest settings.

Sounds like you have animosity over the girl more than the car. end of story. screw 4runners and blazers, i got the 69 GMC stake side.

its common for these cars to have a 3500-4000 rpm cruising at 65-75 mph. usually you get them with itty bitty 165 tires where the 4wd manuals had 175 or 185 tires. also most of these had a 3.900 gear. some of the 85/87/87 had a 3.70 gear, mainly turbos. 13's are harder to find these days, but i would go with some 185/70 tires if you canfind them.

remove the distributor first so you can get the engine in around the brake master cylinder. You might have to cut off a mounting tab on the disty or lock it funny for clearance also. good luck

ea81 and ea82 hubs fit the same.

That canister pieceinphoto 3 mounts behind the head. You can see the metl clip where the hose rests just below the spare tire

as long as you have the 5spds trans mount crossmember, its totally bolt in. The hole for the shifter is the same, and the shifter boot ring bolts up the same as the AT shifter assembly. You will have to plug off the vac line for the at modulator that comes off the back of the motor, that's it. this will be an easy swap. TIP: drop the steering column to switch out the pedal assembly. so you need: trans shifter crossmember(with its longer bolts and bushings) clutch/flywheel and its longer crank bolts pedal box about 3 hours of your time you can watch these videos pertaining to a loyale 5mt 4wd swap from 3at 4wd. everything applies minus the driveshaft. wrangling the trans will be easiest if you pull the motor, plus this gives you a chance to overhaul the engine seals vids: watch these in consecutive order, they cover pulling the motor, swapping trans, pedal box, and engine seals, timing belt, ign timing

The brown and black connecotors are for hecking continuity in the harness itself per the FSM diagrams, things like wiper and headlight circuit, etc, on the body of the car itself.

those green and white connectors are supposed to be unplugged all the time. they only plug in for code retrieval procedures. If your car idles funny and wont rev out, and the fuel pump clicks on and off, that is why.

someone in wisconsin would pay that much for that car if it had NO motor

just swap the harness dash and all. since these are the same generation of cars, you just carry over and replace parts, really no mods, cutting or splicing is necessary. want a turbo engine, swap harness, want digital dash, swap dash. the car has 3 harnesses. The engine harness under the hood which contains the headlights, horns, cruise, etc. The body will have a harness depending on wagon, sedan, etc. the dash harness connects between the 2. If you dong like the color of the dash, you can swap harnesses between them. you just have to take the time to expose and pull the harnesses. dont forget about the multitude of ground wires on the harness in random places. your swap should be direct with all the holes and mounts present dont forget to swap the engine crossmember so your motor fits as well

Fill the block by the upper radiator hose. You may have to wait till the thermostat opens to add more coolant. Try adding coolant to the bleeder plug on the left of the radiator. It is a bit tricky since the thermostat is on the bottom of the cooling system. Be careful, as it is possible to overheat during the fill procedure.