MilesFox

the head gasket should be ok with what you have described so far. unless you forgot to mention driving along till she stalled and pegging the temp gauge, i highly doubt you blew the head gaskets go ahead with replacing the timing belts and water pump, may as well do the front seals while you are there. altogether it should not cost any more than 100 bucks for parts. maybe 150 depending on how you shop. do this and you will be fine. if you are worried about the head gaskets after all that, then look into a new radiator, as the radiator itself is the waekest link of the cooling systems and is generally the cause of most overheats

i remember from many years ago, my 2nd ever subaru, first ever ea82 was a 85 turbo traction wagon. this one had the automatic (which are single range) and had the red on black intereior with the fancy checkered seats. as far as a trim level goes this hould be the rarest. mechanically your car is the same as any thru-94 subaru loyale, gl, rx turbo. electrically, the motor is the same as 85-86(specific to engine harness, disty, MAF) here is the VIN chart: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/rx/vin.htm

there actually was an n/a mpfi ea81 in the 84 gl-10. mpfi was offered as a premium but spfi hadnt been developed yet. this is why you can also find na/ mpfi ea82's in 85 gl-10's to go with turbo, either route, you would have cut out or otherwise modify a depressionin the crossmember for the cross pipe. the simplest thing to do to go turbo would be to swap an ea82t with wiring harness, or even a complete ea81 with ea82 engine harness. use 85-86 harness/ecu fo that) otherwise with the amount of work you can go ej if not for all the work, and you want something to drive, just go find any ea82 spfi motor and throw your carb onit and call it a day. you will actually gain compression, and the ea81 intake fits almost the same. just look up ea82 conversions, it has been done a few times. i have done a few myself.

i would rule out the head gasket UNLESS there is water in the oil, oil in the radistor or check for bubbles in the radiator withthe cap off whel the car is running from what you have stated already ths would be the only cause for alarm to the head gaskets. if you have bubbles, there is compression gases getting into the cooling system, and it will push coolant out the overflow. how much coolant per day did you have to add? i would suspect the water pump had been leaking. my luck hasnt been so great re-using old water pumps. you may as well get one, if you shop around you can probably have it for 30-40 bucks. check the little hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the top of the block. see if there is any coolant on the top of the block. it is also possible you have a bad intake gasket for mysterious coolant loss

what are you doing to make the wrx coiover fit on the ea82 knuckle. since ea82 the strut fits into a sleve on the knuckle, whereas the wrx knuckle is a macpherson strut with bolts thru the knuckle? or do you have xt6 suspension? either way keep us posted on the progress

where at in indiana are you? i used to life in fort wayne/auburn area. i have an 88 gl 4wd sedan you are welcome to it for parts. there are some lift kits available for purchase if you spend the money. its not terrible to fabricate a lift if you know the basics. thehardest thing about it is sourching m12x1.25 bolts because the 1.25 thread is uncommonoutside of subarus but either way, the entire suspension unbolts from the car as whole units, whic allows a body lift, which allows for wheels. the suspension geometry is fixed on these cars, so if you try to do any suspension lifting, just make sure you have a good knowledge of suspension geometry.

you would have had to turn the piston to recess it in its bore to fit new pads. the braking system is cross(dual) diagonal, and the bleeding has to be done LF RR RF LR. so whatever front wheel you replaced the caliper on, belaad the rear wheel on the other side of the car along with it.

i have a carb block with turbo setup in the 87 rx. runs just fine stock. i simply bypassed the 3rd vent on top of the block, for lack of having a proper TEE. the pistons themselves should swap no problem, but you have to split the block

my transmsiion did the same thing. eventually you will lose 2nd gear, then get stuck in 1st or reverse. mine capped out totally at 258,000 miles. i swapped in a used unit from a 93

physically it would be all bolt-on. you would have to make a mount for the driveshaft carrier. aside from phyically bolting together, the "AWD" 4eat transmsion has a TCU (transmission control unit) that would have to be swapped over. unless you isolate its harness from the rest of the car, it would probably be easier to swap the wiring harness as a whole. but for that amount of work what its worth you may as well swap in some ej22 stuff if you want to swap in automatics your best bet is to find a 3 spd auto (3at) and swap it in along with its driveshaft and rear diff, and front axles.

does the horn work? check fuse #5 clock/horn. this is hot all the time and supplies volts to the ecu itself. check the ign fuse too do you have an aftermarket radio? if so, see if the single green wire has grounded out blowing mentioned fuse. the black fuse link provides master power to the fuse panel. battery cables are known to fail in the middle of the length inside their insulation, but that is probably not your problem.

after removing the pitch bar and unbolting the engine mounts from the frame, place a jack under the diff of the transmissopn and raise the whole work sup about 3 inches so the motor can slide forward without hanging up on the frame. the bottom engine studs are about 3 inches long, so the motor has to slide forward that much before you can finally lift it out. tie your chans or strap to thealternator bracket and the pitch bar bracket, just slide a bolt thru there. this will give you control of the fore-aft tilt of the motor since you will have to do some maneuvering this way to line up the bellhouding and input shaft when going back together.

if you would be towing or have the car heavily loaded down, you could pick up a transmission cooler from u-haul from 40-80 bucks depending on which one you get. installation would be about 60 bucks or so. easy enough to install yourself if you really wanted to.

i have used speaker wire before and it worked, but i would recommend sticking to original gauge or do like general disorder suggested, as to not have problems with resistances and overdrawing the ignition module

with the hatchback the parts listings can be vague since the cross referencing confuses it with ea82 stuff. try asking for parts for an 84 wagon or the same year BRAT

everything on the front of the car, fenders, hood, bumper, headlightrs will fit from any 85-89 gl sedan, wagon, 3-door coupe, and 90-94 loyale sedan, wagon, coupe DL models have different headlights and bezeld but thet will fit in place of what came original. aside from thet, fenders, hood, bumpers fit the same. welcome to the subaru LEGO set, build it how you like with any part you want

bent rear trailing arm? that will throw the steering wheel crooked

nissan/datsun was a common parts manufacturer with subaru

we should know by now that subarus are a little bit tricky ot bleed the air out of with topping off the cooling system. as part of my video series, this one demonstrates what to expect in adding coolant to a subaru, and shows where mistakes can be made in thinking the system is full when it's not. in this video the owner of trhe car(zanny dook) drove it after forgetting to put on the radiator cap and lost coolant. after topping it off and reinstalling the cap he had overheating issues, and some hillbilly told him to remove the thermostat, and he broke a housiong bolt after trying to put it back together. i go to fix his car after it sat for a day and demonstrate proper filling technique. i shot this in may of 2005 sometimes it takes a good 20 minutes to do it properly. 3 trains went by in this one.... moderators move to the appropriate forum if you like, or even post it in USRM

the smell and the reaction is similar to that of high strength toilet cleaner, like the kind you mix with foil in a pop bottle to make works bombs

i have a knob from a toyota hilux 4x4. i was going to say a lugnut will fit but jerry beat me to it

krylon is fairly good paint, but it will be cut down by gasoline if you are paintingnear the fuel cap. the orange and white are krylon and the balck is the generic wal-mart rustoleum wannabe "color place rust control stuff" so far with spray painting many of cars i have found the plasti-kote duplicolor to be the most durable. you may want to consider a rust stopper such as por-15. i myself have never used the stuff, but i got ahold of a product calld 'rust-n-me' or something like that i scored from the shop at u-haul. it looks like washer fluid. i am prepping the rx with it now, just brush on and it chemically dissolves the rust and seals it. the purpose of this product is to apply to rusty truck bumpers, and then wipe it off, it sticks to the rust but does not affect any paint, thus wiping off clean.

if you remove the whole headlight assembly there are metal clips on each side that will allow the lens to be separated from the rest of the housing.

the rear strit will fit from another soob however you find it. the "nut" for the wheel bbearing is a big ring nut, like that of a fuel pump mointed in-nank that needs a tool to grip it. if you look on the back of the trailing arm you will see the notches for theis tool you should be able to find on e at napa labeled "import bearing tool" or something similar expressin ght eword "import" if you look at it you will see how the notches are

that car has an ea82 in it. it came out of my 88 sedan, and originally came from an 86 wagon with over 200,000 miles. i popped the head gaskets once and drove it around lik ethat(exhuast in coolant) and when i put a different motoro in my sedan i did the head gaskets on it and put in in the trashwagon. the trashwagon itself originally came from subiemech's and we drove it back some 400 miles to milwaukee, painted it overnight, and went on the hot rod power tour through indianapolis and back. the neext day when we got back, it broke the cluch cable and it was parked. after it sat for the winter the cable was fixed, but the motor broke something internally after startup. we put in an ea82 that came from the original trashwagon 5, the motor it ran on its infamous road trip then it went on the babe rally 2006 and blew up trashwagon's motor and was towed back from virgina and then go thte sedan's motor here is the sedan as it is now. will probably do the babe rally with it(runs and drives flexo pipe exhaust. passenger side head with open aav port on head, and the jb weld has fallen out mysteriously uses coolant pressure plate is weak, making shifting chunky the rear trailing arm is cambered in at the top the center console is broken from the passenger seat(t-bone) the rea diff has fallen out at one time, and i had to take it off to keep hoing. i got the doj cups apart but the outher cvs do not come apart. the driveshaft was already broken and tied up with a coat hanger. i drove it for 200 miles with the rear axles hanging and the diff in the trunk this would be its 3rd motor from original it is a fwd at to 4wd 5sod so it has a pushbutton start and no reverse lights i shorted something in the radio harness that i have to backfeed voltage from a defunct aftermarket fog light swithc to make the ign come on the key fits my 87 rx the same, same cut/code from the facotory, but the doors on the sedan are not original, and i lost that key it has ghetto spring boosters in the rear the interior is mixed and batched between 2 86 wagons and 87 gl10 fold down rear seats with an xt driver seat. the steering wheel is fom an 86 sedan. the suspension is 87 rx struts, 88 wagon crossmember, and 86 wagon rear suspension with a random trailing arm