MilesFox

if oyu dont want to forget the fuel pump swithc, you can replace the swithc with a relay off the + coil terminal (or ign fuse in fuse block) this way the pump will turn on and off with the key.

http://www.myrallyforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=6219 someone plaease go after this

you got the wrong part becuase you have an 85. ea82's began production in 85 as well. by that note it's likely to be vage on parts such as brakes and axles, as parts stores have their heads in their anus about cross referencing. just be sure you know what you are getting before you go in, or just ask for parts for an 84

the car is designed this way. i learned about this trick with most imports working at a used carlots. even the 2000 mitsubishi mirage does this. in contrary, if you try do do this trick without the door locked, the door wont latch shut, unless it is locked. all the doors unlock with the front driver so if you forgot to lif the handle while closing, that is why all the door s unlock. if this were the passenger door, it would only affect that door and one more thing before you notice and ask about it, you will notice a 'door lock' light on the dash. this is simply to remind you that the doors are not locked(whiel in the car, child safety like feature. lock the doors and it goes away. also the rear door s have a switch near the striker for rear child safety lockouts, to prevent the door from opening on the inside.

Ok, 1986 4 x 4 Sedan, automatic. Took it out on icy, slightly snow covered roads, with some dry pavement intermingled. Didn't want to trash the transmission on first outing. 1. Under these conditions, good candidate for 4WD? >>as long as it's not dry pavement. you can get away with driving in heavy rain, on a straight road, at modrerate speeds. rain is not recommended for slow speeds with turning(in-town driving) but ok on the highway on heavy downpours or your typical back roads. 2. Safe to switch into 4WD at any speed? >> use the 4wd at any speed you like, up to any speed, and engage/disengage at any speed. so long as engage/disengage is going straight, do not eng/diseng while turning(in town type turns) 3. Safe to drive in 4wd at high speed, 50-60 plus (in conditions allow) >>as fast or slow as you can make it go 4. Usually good idea to be switching in and out frequently? >>probably better than never using it. switch in or out based on the rosd surface more than anything . The Subaru seems to run at 2000 and accelerates to 3000. 1. Is this normal? >>the 85-86 n/a 3at transmission has a final drive ratio of 3.7. later models have a 3.9. FWD automatics will cruise at better than 3500 rpm Oil Pressure guage This is floating around 45. Is this good or bad? >>typical, the oem gauge isnt the most accurate. go with a mechanical aftermarket gauge if this is important to you(which it should be!) Volts meter shows 12v while in motion, but drops to 8 or so with some dimming. Alternator going bad or normal? >> you may want to investigate this. sometimes the gauge isnt accurate. the warning lights will start to clow ambiently when the voltage becomes a problem Finally, temp guage runs in the middle...my Nissan rarely gets to middle unless during summer. 1. Is this normal? >> consider replacing the radiator. this can be considered normal, so long as the temp doesnt fluctuate towards the 3/4 mark. but better running soobs will hang within 1/4 the way up

i attempted it onece, but i found the hose nipples are larger than the ea hoses, and you would have to cut into the core support to recess the radiator down enough to close the hood

with my experiences some of the cheaper swithces will melt inside and lose a terminal. i would run a relay for that. otherwise use a nice heavy duty metal switch. you can take off power from the spare slot on the fuse link block

otherwise if the fuel pump is getting voltage, amke sure itis grounding. you can ground it directly to the body if that's what it takes

one: engage or disengage 4wd while moving and the steering straight ahead. if youhave a bind goose the gas or pull off into the shoulder or some other loose surface two: the clutch cable is probably too tight. adjust that first, then the hill holder cable

also tonot exclude this notion, has the timing belt broken? take off the disty cap and watch for the rotor to turn. the ecu needs to see a signal from the didty to turn on the fuel pump. this would be the next thing to look at if the relay is determined to be good both the ign and fuel pump relays should be very near the ECU, which is located in the trunk inder the rear decklid. the brown one is fuel, the green one is ign, try swapping them around and see if the ign does not turn on. if so, then your problem is the relay. if not, investigate the timing belt

if you do cap it off temorarily, a spray paint cap fits perfectly inside the bell that surrounds the ouput. then heav plastic (industrial garbage bag or thicker) and a large hose clamp i have done this for lack of having a driveshaft, and daily drove it for a while. hell i even drove it cross country. expect a little to drip out, but nothing more than the typical cam seal leak, etc

the no starting issue is probaby the cam angle sensor. my car does it, and will start if i wiggle it. i have read other posts abouthtis problem. the dealer tells me it was common problem, a newone is about 45 bucks. speaking of ghost codes, and pertaining to a 2000 mitsu mirage, it had the check engine light and i replaced the plugs and wires. the light is not on anymore, but it pulls a code for #3 misfire. so, can the codes be cleared with out an obd scanner?

is that french? dont hate on the guy, but give him the facts. but then again i get tired of all these "tuner message boards" that are all hype about "what kind of(random acronym) should i get" and yet the technical discussion sections are empty. and of ourse, lame driving u-tube videos you know, there is more to be appreciated by those of us who learned how to drive in real cars and before the likes of gran turismo and fast and furious although i see there is an increase of noobie hate going on around here.....

why not? i went 2300 miles to go pick up a car that was worth only parts, and dont get me started on that story. take along a good radiator and maybe an upper and lower rad hose. the rest should be fine, i wouldnt be afraid to do it. if anything make sure you have at leas 2 spares, as old corded tires can fall apart if they sat for a while. be advised, depending on the environment that it sat in, something like the fuel pump could quit working, or a timing belt can let go. dont go accelerating too hard to try and avoid that. if you want to take the time to replace the timing belts then go ahead car should start if it ran before. i went 300 miles onece to pick up a car, and the guy started it right before me after it had sat without running for almost 2 years. and it was carbbed.

for that price you could rent a 4x8u-haul, the low profile one. it will be just fine. lots easier to tow than whole cars, like i have done with subarus

all of the parts will fit the rear end is the same the gas tank is the same xt's are all ea82 motor and driveline wise. the body floorpan is most similar to sedans or coupes(like the rear cargo holds and rollpan" use the clutch and flywheel from the donor car along with its tranny the xt will not have a mount for the center carrier bearing on the diriveshft. as would be with any fwd ea82 the same rules would apply for the standard 4wd swap. the only exception with the xt is you will need a pedal box off amnother xt, but only if its an automatic. you may have to swap the clutch cable itself because the w2wd vs 4wd has different lenght thread. the hill holder will hook up the same

in my sedan i have had: engine crane full toolbox ea81 motor and related parts in a loyale wagon we had in the back: full tool box weekend's luggage ea82 mpfi full time xt transmission xt front suspension legacy rear suspsnsion ej22 other random related parts xt front seats and on the roof: full set of tires and drove the whole rig across 350 miles

looks like 15's are the new 13's as far as your standard factory issue steelies on the newer junk these days

experienced people can do it within 2 hours. if you are new entirely then give yourself the whole afternoon. if you really get into it with seals, (and if you had to do head gaskets) give yourself the weekend. remove the clutch fan and then the radiator. you will thank yourself when you go to remove the timing belt covers. the radistor doesn not need to come out, but like they said take it out anyway for the room if you have to lose the coolant for the WP anyway. now there will be a whole debacle of wether or not to leave the timing belt covers off. if you dont go as far as the cam seals and oil pump seal right at this moment i would leave them off, both outer and inner. this way you can get to everything easier. and if you did leave them off, the next TB job will take no more than 20 minutes with 2 tools, (well 3 if you count the ratchet and deep 12mm as 2) and save you from removing the crank pulley and the dipstick. and the water pump and oil pump can be serviced again with ease. i gouess you can argue the notion, but after all i wrote the book

i have been thrown in jail for things WAY less worse.

this thread died already. let it go.

enough with the arguing and stop the hate! so it is that i have been quoted. but i'm also a crazy mother************er, better ax somebody!! the owners manual says and i quote: "towing with your subaru is not recommended" http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/towing.htm

could you have the ignition wires on wrong? counter clockwise 1-3-4-2 with #! being thre rearmost terminal to the right of the cap screw, it should be looking straight at the master cylinder. also when the disty is a #1 the passenger side cam sprocket dot will be ponting at the hard edge on the corner of the vlave cover.

i have the same setup as mentioed above on my sedan, with a swapped in dual range 5s-d, amnd i tow whole cars more often than anything. i towed my rx from Fort Wayne, IN thru Chicago to Milwaukee, wi with the same hitch. its a little bit a pain in the rump roast to drive but this is one of those things you dont want to go doing unless you can handle your car end excercise your experience in towing. i have done donuts towing trailers as well.

cosmetic? sandpaper and spray paint