MilesFox

get the xt6. if the motor craps thden at least you still have 5 lug suspension if the one you get has air suspensions swap in the rear struts with any older subatru and thefront struts with imprezas. the suspension has the potential to retrofit 05 legacy struts and brakes on the rar and anything to current line wrx sti brembo setup on the front. my.02

well we just got an obd!! scanner at u-haul so we dont have to down equipment over check engine lights. first chance i get i will pull a scan. i bet i get a CAS code... i re-aligned the front and now the car doesnt pull with the road creown as much. i think i will need taller springs in the rear since there is a loto fo body roll. the car is a little bit drifty with the pos camber in the front and neg camber in the rear. but the way it rolls the rump roast end needs to sit up more and be a little more stiff for my drift'n with ease! the soft snow tires it 40 psi makes for some interesting low speed handling characteristics (low speed=soarp cornering. what if the rear diff ratio supposed to be for a 95 5mt vs a 91 5mt? (my car is an 'outback' trim level for 95 on a legacy L trim rather than the body cladding style for 96 and above

So i have desmond jone's subaru legacy wagon 1995 i had replaced the 5mt with one from a 137,000 mil 91 legacy. the motor has 259,000 mi and a recent timing belt. and new snow tires with less then 2000 mi on them so i put on forester struts for 1998. car rides better being new struts, but the rear looks to have a little negative camber the forester strut spring rest is higher up than on the legacy, but overall he strut rod vs the damper is the same. would the trailing arms be longer for a forester? or would the difference be in a forester knuckle? i would think the knuckle, but i have nothing to compare to! the front is fine, it almost seems to sit higher than the rear. as if the rear springs sont fill out the rear struts enough because there is a lot of travel on the rear when i jack the car up. i also have a check engine light, and now and again you have to unplug and re plug the crank angle sensor to start the car from a warm start. overall its a lot more solid than my 88 sedan.

the hose diameter on the ej is larger than the ea82 radiator. an xt6 would be a better match since the hoses are larger than ea82, and if thy are the same size as the ej's. if you use a legacy radiator you would have to cut into the radiator support to let it sid down in about an inch and a half, otherwise it sits too high and you cant get it to fit inside its location i have mock installed an ej22 down into a gl-10 all but the wiring harness and the radiator i never got that far. this information is based on my attempt

hey i broke an axle once and had to park my car on an enbankment and after hitch hiking to a junkyard and returning the with another axle i put it on and my vcar would not go. i already hjad taken one bellhousing bolt out before i thought to check the 4wd linkage, which actually was bumped into "false neutral" when the car ran up over the curb of the embankment the other 2 times i had seen a clutch not engage was once on a 81 glf that sat in a farmers field for better than 10 years and the other instance a clutch was smoked so bad the dust made the disc stick in the flywheel.

i hope that is not a plastic intake. the new subarus can be parts cars for our older ones. thet the yuppies crash them up and leave us with a bountiful harvest!

i just put forester struts in my 95 legacy. the front does appear to sit higher than the rear. but then again i still have to change out the other side inthe rear! when the car is on a jack i can stick my head inside the wheelwell.

instead of having the electric motors at the wheels why not have them on the front and rear diffs?

if no one has called it out the LF and RR wheels are on the wrong way. the fins should point forward. looks like a diagoan tire rotation instead of front to back. just giv'n you hell. have fun

i have put an ea81 intyo an 88 dl with a 2wd 3at. it can be done. didnt run right nd then got junked before i realized the ea81 timing marks are in different degree relative to the ea82 flywheel(flexplate)

heck i got almost 20,000 mile off my bad axle till i took it out. i have towed whole cars with blown head gaskets. rove 40 miles or better on flat tires, etc. u b ok

if you want to go cheap you can swap in a carb motor and swap the fuel pump for it to work and figure out the carb electrics but its a motor. if you replaced the block with the same heads you could go na mpfi if you just leave the turbo off and get the correct boot

that is so mad stupid absolutely f'n amazing simple so you redrill the backing plate and put it on the xt6 trailing arm. sweet!

yeah he's f'n right!

generic "ford" aux fuel tank pump. external in-line type. makes for good subaru fuel pump

you can drop the diff down a little bit with spacers at the hanger to mount bushings and the mount to body bolts. as well as the bolts that hold the diff to the mounting plate. if you want to donk out your subaru rollin on 13's. the springs on soob shocks would ride ok, its better than the chap coil spring booster i have in my sedan. i did space the diff to make up about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. it is a little rough on the driveshaft but i need to lower the top part of the diff

a lot of the off the shelf gauge kits have npt thread fittings and the orofices on the oil pump are metric. the npt thread will work if you use teflon and dont torque much past about 3 turns. you may have to couple the extra fittings in the kit to match it up but i find the leftover fitting from the water temp gauge is the magical piece.

ok before speculation detracts the original idea lets go back to the tps. when you take off the intake boot yhere it will bo on the side of the throttle body. if you remove the alternator or swing it out of the way you can get to the screws easier and with a stubby screwdriver. take it off and shake it if you hear something rattle its mostly junk. clean up the contacts, you can clock the unit a little for some fine tuning, ir grab one from another spfi. the maf sometimes camn make it feel boggy try the crc maf cleaner. my sedan ran leanish and i swapped in another maf from my other car and it drove nice and snappy. you can try messing with the coolant temp sensor if your car runs different warm than cold.

the xt6 trans will work if you swap the driveshaft and trans mount along with. if you dont have those parts any other 5spd 4wd driveline, mounts or clutch will fit the same. if you have all the parts from the xt you will still need the pedal assembly out of a loyale/gl/dl for the clutch pedal because the xt's mounts differently. the gearing on the xt6 trans is a little taller than the other models in the first gears and the rear diff is 3.9. make sure you have a 3.9 diff to go with(if your car does not already have one) the axles you will need from a turbo 5spd model with a 25 spline. your car has 23 spline axles in front. you would be better off with a dual range 5spd but if you have the parts already have at it! you will need to hardwire the vacuum solenoids for the diff lock using a dpst switch

do you not have the ea81 flywheel? if you do and if i remember correctly the ea81t has the same flywheel bolt diameter ans an ea81 so if you use a drill press nad a 1/2 inch bit you can drill out the holes to match. this works for ea81 flywheels against ea82 motors. this is if you have the flywheel and need a quick fix.

if the car runs fine i would suspect the INTAKE GASKET as i would think that is more likely, and easier to fix! sure the motor looks complicated but all that intake comes off in one piece! the turbo can stay where it's at, just remove the "subaru 4wd" plenum and undo 6 bolts. there is a little more to it than that but the point is the intake comes off in one piece, hoses and all

might i amend this comment for it is both correct and incorect. the ecu has to see a signal from the disty to turn on the fuel pump (and to trip the coil, by breaking the field charge at the ecu itself by proxy of the ignition amplifier). the idea stated above will work if you hardwired the fuel pump to be on with the ignition (+ coil terminal or fuse panel) and the mechanical aspects of the carby distributor will trip the coil at the distributor itself. now, what this statement seems to have meant to say is the carb disty will work on an spfi block in a carb application such as using a 93 loyale motor to replace the long block in a 85 carb'd wagon. but yes, the carb disty will work mechanically if you can get around the fuel pump hotwire. make sure to hook up the vacuum and may as well unplug the ign amplifier at the coil. the ecu will most likely throw a crank angle sensor code(as it would when the car is not running)

the spare should be the same overall diameter for a stock tire size. if anything you may have a vibration and this would be the tire itself if it is off balance. make sure it is aired up to 60 psi. driving on a flat rim is entertaining but when the tire shreds off it can beat the piss out of your fender(if you put on a flat donut...) aside from all that if anything put the spare on the back and rotate the rear tire(s) to the front so you maintain your steering and braking ability.

if the radiator looks corroded its wise to install a new one. depending on your driving or the heat on the temp gauge it wouldnt hurt to put a trans cooler on, you can get a mid-duty unit at the u-haul for abour 40 bucks if you put it on yourself how many miles? if a timing belt goes the motor will be ok as far as valve clearance but overheat is what to beware of. it wouldnt hurt to have the timing belts done(and seals, oil pump seal, water pump while it's apart) if you cannot verify the last service. typically factory original belts will go till about 135-145,000 mi so if your mileage is near that check into replacement. if you miles are beyond that it is likely they may have been serviced already. look up the article in the repair manual forum

that car has been accused of being one of my trashwagons. this one is too aesthetically wrong to be something of mine