MilesFox

+towdollys do good with subarus. there is no tongue weight, and a 2000 lb hitch will handle it. the soob is geared lo enough it takes off fine, cruise the top of 4th gear at 4000 rom on the hiway if necessary subars on the towdolly are fine for older soobs, anything part time or with open center diff. newer lsd centrers will bind up on the dolly! the sheering wheel should be LOCKED if the dolly has a swiveling deck. this way there is not too much articulation that will catch the fender on the car. i have towed subars with subarus thru chicago rush hour and across iowa, indiana, wisconsin, or ohio

85 and 86 trims will be glued on. 87 and later they will clip on and the doors will have holes in them

its not going to polish out mirror shiny, but it will be smooth to the tough. yours looks more polished down than my exhaust ports on mt spfi heads. looks good!

how much difference in height are the new springs. i spaced my front crossmember about 5/8" the front end feels tight but when i roll into a corner i can feel the sudpension go negative camber and take the steering wheel with it a little. really if the front was stiffer altogether i think it would corner better.

i'll bet your 2 and 4 spark plug wires are reversed. firing is 1-3-2-4 counterclockwise

i have seen hidden hitch brand on subaru. a lot of your manufacturers are going to be valley or thule which i believe are the same manufacture the hitch is available for the wagon as it replaced the tow hook mounts. on the wagon its flat where on the coupe/sedan the roll pan curves up and you would have to make an angle bracket to make this fit. the other style fits between the bumper on a wagon but the wagon bumper bolts on different than the sedan/coupe. both these styles are reciever hitches the hitch on my sedan was taken from an ea81 wagon and re configuresd tyong in with the bumper and the floor of the trunk. you could go to u-haul and ask too see the itch pro and eye up one of the class one hitches that bolt thru the floor of the trunk, and get creative with the mounting.

well now my car is all front-plowy it feels like too much negative camber when cornering, although the rear has no swaybar and i have half a front suspension floating around in the trunk i plugged the egr port with jb weld equivalent and swapped on the MAF from the 87 gl wagon. the one that was on there i believe was from a 92 loyale, as the component itself was shaped differently, but now my car seems a little more throttle responsive. i would like to put a swaybar in the back if anyone has any ideas beyond a stock ea82 rear sway. my camper has a rear swaybar across leaf springs with clamp on end link mounts. something like that

the pump will be the same. on the gl10 its a carb pump mouned just behind the back wheel on a triangular plate what dude said about too much pressure he mistook you for an ea82 with fuel injection(there were ea81 gl10's, yo!) although on the 82 the fuel pump may be on the driver side firewall. the connectors may be different but the pump itslef will work thanx for external fuel pumps!

use the sanding drums to finish out the surface. i assumed you used the stone cones. i use the cutting bit on aluminum and shape it up with stones, then finish up with the sanding drums. rpms on the dremel are going to be dictated by what bits you use. thge dremel brand bits should be rated with an rpm range

my rx did this oonece, i had to "jump start" the coil by jumping it to the b attery. of course i had to remove the wire to shut it down. but this was with a carb motor swapped in, but, i did have an aftermarket coil too. but this car had other gross electrical problems like the parking light circuit comng on with the brake pedal

so my sedan had bent suspensions due to the previous owner ditching it once, a tow truck who pulled it out of the mud by the tie rod, and from donuting into a curb from the first snow. I had just changed the rear trailing arm the day before the babe patrol car took a dump so now i am driving my sedan again. the steering was poor with its ill alignment. I had a crossmember from an 88 wagon to swap. the existing power steering lost fluid and one of the boots was torn on the bad tie rod. i unbolted the radius rod and parking brake cable mount from the passenger lower control arm. the control arm itself is being replaced. the original was bent and the nut for the ball joint was sheared off, and good ol' RUST was the only thing holdint it together! the axle was shot, the inner boot was gone with metal flakes glittered to the thick coating of molybendum all over the place. this axle has tolerated better than 10,000 miles in this condition. i then on the driver side took out the bolt for the lower control arm pivot and undid the swaybar link as if you were changing the axle using edrach's method:). this control arm was staying and i was too lazy to battle more rusty bolts on that side. having since undone the motor mounts and the exhaust i jack the car by the crossmember and place a jackstand under the tranny, so when i lower the jack the motor is propped up off the crossmember. then i undo the steering joint at the column end. after all this i undo the ps lines at the pump, and the 4 nuts and away she goes. it all came out rather quickly, in just over an hour since i walked out to the car to begin with. on the other crossmember i go to remove the lower control arm for the driver side so it looks like the one i just pulled. the pivot bolt was seized so oi had to cut the nut off and the head of the bolt to remove it. but this does not matter since i am using the hardware original to the car. this swaybar on the new crossmember is bigger being from a 4wd wagon as the one on my sedan was orifinally FWD and missing a bushing. i installed the new crossmember with washers stacked between it and the body of the car, to lift it off the frame by about a half inch. i stacked 6 washers for each bolt. this should allow for a little better than an inch lift on the strut tops without making the axles too inclied. the car feels taller now. so yay, i swapped this on all within the span of a few hours and drove my car to u-haul to take off the axle nut and swap in an outer cv for rear-driveyness! so now my car drives straight but the steering wheel is upside down! the car has absolutely no torque between 2000 rpms so i replaced the exhaust gaskets and 2 studs, and bought a flex-o-pipe to complete my cherry bomb setup to the tailpipe. but then i notice my JB weld plug was missing from the egr port on the head(carb heads) the intake is a stripped down spfi so i have check engine lights on all over the place but i think the o2 sensor is out. i am considering swapping on a straight pull-off intake from the 87 wagon to bring back egr and charcoal purge functions all in all it feels great to drive my car again after it has sat all winter with bent suspensions and flat tires. it still had a full tank of gas from when i let my roommate drive it and it took a dump right after he filled it. that is my story of the day, now that i have finally got around to working on cars again.

i have done stuff like that back in my day. dont go down railroad tracks, beware the pigz.

i have seen the cracks between the valves go down to the valve guide itself and still be good. bob you can use the spray copper permatex gasket seal if you like, if you have problems with supposed cracked head after assembly try the liquid glass type block sealer

you can make an adapter plate from 12mm (1/2" inch plate alumunum 14" x 14" make a template tracing the ej22 and ea82 transmissiion and overlap them lining up the holes for the studs and there is your shape. you can cut it out with a jigsaw be aware of the dowels use a m10 x 1.25 tap for the threads the flywheel the holes will have to be slotted to fit the EJ the bottom studs and the pilot hole will line up naturally, you will have to figure out the top bolting

the pcv works as a cross flow ventilation, taking in fresh air in one valve cover and then exiting the crank vapors out the other valve cover to the intake. simply take out the T connector for the block and make a straight hose. that is how i put a turbo on a carb block

i think the car could pull 2500 lbs with no sweat. i have done 35oo lbs but i would only recommend it if you reall y know what you are doing! if its an automatic you should get a trans cooler. you can get one at u-haul the car could pull better than 3500 if the trailer had electric brakes. you would need a brake control unit and a 7-way harness most receiver hitches are rated for 200-3500 lb, the ones i install on subarus is 3500 so make sure the drawbar and ball are rated for that much

the little metal line that comes up from the driver side framerail is the vent for the vacuum canister. this would connect to the skinny line (of the fuel lines)on the mpfi intake

well if your oil looks like a wendy's frostee then you have coolant in the oil. you will have to do the head gaskets or swap another motor. for 50 bucks you cant go wrong. if you dont fix it im sure someone would give you 100 bucks for it. at least keep it from going to junk

the gaskets at napa are pretty good. make sure you get the victor graphite faced gaskets and not the fel-pro the head gasket sets and engine sets are all the same fro 85-95 and has all the gaskets for carb, spfi, and mpfi.

put a few ounces in your 1/4 tank of gas. run the car and dump a good portion down the intake. turn the car off and pour some in the carb/tb to soak run the car and clear its throat add the other 1/3d of the can through the oil and then change it within 100 miles for carbs i would dump some in the carb to soak wheras fuel injected the vac line is ideal

the mid pipe will fit most part. the y pipe afterall is ea82. the muffler half may be different but if you get the whole pipe from yhe y flange back it will run correctly along the body. the rubber mounts may be in the wrong place you may have to get creative

the car has new brake pads on it. you may want to put on new rotors with another set of new pads. otherwiswe the existing pads are fine, but if you put new pads on the old rotors your brake pads will end up the same as the ones on there now.

it wont fit. the top of the hatch door will be too narropw for a wagon. its been a while but its an ill fit. i tried to put a hatch on a wagon and it didnt line up for squat

the rotor you have for spfi has the D-shaped hole. your new rotor you got is for a TURBO distributir with the round hole. so this means a turbo rotor will fit on an spfi but a spfi rotor wont fit in a turbo. that would be the only physical difference

take off the exhaust after the y pipe and have a flange welded to a 2 inch cherry bomb and run a straight pipe to the back with no muffler. use 1-3/4" pipe afterh the 'bomb