MilesFox

i have seen the cracks between the valves go down to the valve guide itself and still be good. bob you can use the spray copper permatex gasket seal if you like, if you have problems with supposed cracked head after assembly try the liquid glass type block sealer

you can make an adapter plate from 12mm (1/2" inch plate alumunum 14" x 14" make a template tracing the ej22 and ea82 transmissiion and overlap them lining up the holes for the studs and there is your shape. you can cut it out with a jigsaw be aware of the dowels use a m10 x 1.25 tap for the threads the flywheel the holes will have to be slotted to fit the EJ the bottom studs and the pilot hole will line up naturally, you will have to figure out the top bolting

the pcv works as a cross flow ventilation, taking in fresh air in one valve cover and then exiting the crank vapors out the other valve cover to the intake. simply take out the T connector for the block and make a straight hose. that is how i put a turbo on a carb block

i think the car could pull 2500 lbs with no sweat. i have done 35oo lbs but i would only recommend it if you reall y know what you are doing! if its an automatic you should get a trans cooler. you can get one at u-haul the car could pull better than 3500 if the trailer had electric brakes. you would need a brake control unit and a 7-way harness most receiver hitches are rated for 200-3500 lb, the ones i install on subarus is 3500 so make sure the drawbar and ball are rated for that much

the little metal line that comes up from the driver side framerail is the vent for the vacuum canister. this would connect to the skinny line (of the fuel lines)on the mpfi intake

well if your oil looks like a wendy's frostee then you have coolant in the oil. you will have to do the head gaskets or swap another motor. for 50 bucks you cant go wrong. if you dont fix it im sure someone would give you 100 bucks for it. at least keep it from going to junk

the gaskets at napa are pretty good. make sure you get the victor graphite faced gaskets and not the fel-pro the head gasket sets and engine sets are all the same fro 85-95 and has all the gaskets for carb, spfi, and mpfi.

put a few ounces in your 1/4 tank of gas. run the car and dump a good portion down the intake. turn the car off and pour some in the carb/tb to soak run the car and clear its throat add the other 1/3d of the can through the oil and then change it within 100 miles for carbs i would dump some in the carb to soak wheras fuel injected the vac line is ideal

the mid pipe will fit most part. the y pipe afterall is ea82. the muffler half may be different but if you get the whole pipe from yhe y flange back it will run correctly along the body. the rubber mounts may be in the wrong place you may have to get creative

the car has new brake pads on it. you may want to put on new rotors with another set of new pads. otherwiswe the existing pads are fine, but if you put new pads on the old rotors your brake pads will end up the same as the ones on there now.

it wont fit. the top of the hatch door will be too narropw for a wagon. its been a while but its an ill fit. i tried to put a hatch on a wagon and it didnt line up for squat

the rotor you have for spfi has the D-shaped hole. your new rotor you got is for a TURBO distributir with the round hole. so this means a turbo rotor will fit on an spfi but a spfi rotor wont fit in a turbo. that would be the only physical difference

take off the exhaust after the y pipe and have a flange welded to a 2 inch cherry bomb and run a straight pipe to the back with no muffler. use 1-3/4" pipe afterh the 'bomb

the is a bank or felays on the passenger side firewall near the vacuum canister that is AC related. inspect the wires around that location

now that is not correct, if you read my comment i said trashwagon5, which had an ea82 engine and ea82 4wd 5spd with ea82 suspension parts as well and it was a fwd 5spd ea81 to begin with i only had to cut out around the transmission. the motor will fit fine. but it is tight around the distributor/master cylinder so you will have to remove the disty to install the motor then put it back in.

the cracks between the valves are normal. you can try to close them up with a small punch or chisel, and tamp the edges lightly with a hammer

i used to have a car just like that. it wasa colorado car with the carter weber, fwd 5spd, same color. and for 83 the 4 headlights and the crome bumper. it was called trashwagon5

if your stereo console is not unified with the shifter console you could out an ea82 console in there without it looking terribly ill if you are using the ea82 4wd lever. the 2 screws uner the handbrake cover will match up.

the code 6 you got was identifying your car. it would have a series of long then short flashes to designate codes like 3-6, etc. the lifter tick could be due to the oil pump seal. you would have to take the belts off but it wouldnt hurt to get that farinto the motor at leeast to familiarize yourself wityh the layout. take off the egr valve and clean it good. you may have to re-gasket the exhaust flanges as far as exhaust noise. be careful with torque. use new stids and loc-tite(red). use the orange copper silicone or the copper spray to seal the gaskets you can get new studs in the HELP aisle in the adcance auto zone type store. 10mm x 1.25 "import exhaust studs" comes in sets of 2 with nuts. read some of this: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

as i posted over on xt6.net the best way to care for a spray paint job is to spray it down with any of the spray on type protectants. i myself use the bulk concentrate mix-to-a spray bottle tire shine like the stuff they use at u-haul for tires, dashboards, and plastic trim, or like the stuff they use at detailers or auto dealers. best applied immediately after a wash when the car is still wet. if the paint oxidized burnish it down by hand with dry paper towels and wd-40. it works good on rubber trim and the dashboard too!. wd will also remove old window tint sticky.

*thread highjack within topic* so what kind of average speed do you do on the highway. in my 4wd converted sedan i keep the rpms at about 3200, a touch below 65 mph on 185/70 tires the 87 fwd 5spd i do about closer to 3500 rpms a touch above 65 mph on 175 70 tires the sedan gets about 26-28 mpg. the best i ran it for mileage was out of gas thru chigaco and got 457 miles on a full tank, with the car loaded down to the brim

it reminds me of a carter weber especially with the goofy fuel fitting. a hitachi will have 4 nuts on studs holding the carb ro the intake, the c/w will have a bolt on the side, a stud, and a bolt with a nut on the bottom side of the intake flange i liked the carter weber but becareful of " floppy carb syndrome". the throttle plates bolt on from underneath and the screws are accessible when you take the carb off, and those tend to lose thread and hence forth your carb is floppy with mad vacuum leakage. although i would most likely blame this condition on previous mechanics who like tho over-torke domestic junk

you can get a heavy duty trans cooler at u-haul for about 40 bucks. super easy to install. every 10 degrees in temp rise reduces the life of the trans by half

that is a heavier tire than on the front of my u-haul truck. what is that like 3500 lb per tire(3800 duals)

i kike the home-made welded up strut cap lifts, it looks better than the one i built. if you are just lifting the struts, you shoould try to lift the crossmember slightly by stacking washers between the car and the crossmember, as much as you are allowed by the nuts threading all the way through with a good 3-4 threads showing. you could get a good 3/4" inch on the crossmeber-to body if not almost an inch. then tack weld up the washers to eachother. on the radius rod plates you can stack washers to get about 1/4" to 1/2" to help compensate with the front. lifting the struts alone will make the axle angle sharper than stock, premature wear. spacing the fram will help make up for this. you might have to loosen the anti pitch bar and tweak a few lines just a tiny bit)