MilesFox

what you are contemplating to build is what i am driving right now. my 88 gl sedan that looks like an 86 gl-10 had a 5spd dual range conversion, which is right now rear drivey wit no front axle. tou will have to invent a mount for the driveshaft bearing and drill holes and supply long bolts to mount the rear diff hanger.other than that, its all bolt-on 5spd on the floor, PRNDL on the dash

i think the car would be good for it structurally in the body. the motor wouldnt mind the rpms but if it has old timing belts or an old radiator it would get hot. the trailing arms bend easy but a bent car will still go. i would say the front suspension would still function so long as the ball joints stay intact.

how about no-lenght headers? the motor will still sound the same with no Y-pipe at all, open ports, but more like a misfire and running underwater. the valves and the siamese ports make a blip-blurp sound as the firing order fires both piston on the same bank almost simultaneously alternately. that is why blown exhaust gaskets sound like a misfire or the car has a harley type sound to it.

the brake lines converge in front of the gas tank at a proportioning block and then finally up through a grommet under the rear seat. from there it runs internally along the rocker panel to the firewall along with the fuel lines

you have to bring the top of the strut in as you lift 7mm to every inch of lift. its not that the lower control arm remains too short, its the fact that the top is farther out in proportion compared to the height of the lift, making a wider angle.

seafoam is not bad but change the oil within 100 miles or a few days to drain aout any crap that loosens up.

you would have to bring hte strut tops inward, have some offset with the strut top lift block. i read the proportion is 7mm inward for every inch.

the headlights are live all the time and ground through the switch. try the parking light curcuit. you may have to make a relay that creates a ground before the swithc for that to work. same as with the horn

if you get around to taking the axle off its easier to replace the boot. good time to get at the wheel bearin if need be. it will last for a while my sedan has no boot for over 10,000 miles and seen baja'n and 2 winters. you could do the bag to prolong it. if you continue on shove some greas in it now and again

paint the center of the raised portion where it tapers down to the grille. paint it with a satin black like the old mopar color. follow the contours of hte hood and that will look good! it will set off the trim around the doors and the tonneau cover

the hitch for a gen 2 legacy ties in with thru-bolt on one of the factory tow hooks, and bolts ino twhere the other tow hook bolts onto generally tongue weight is 10 percent of the rated capacity. so in theory that would allow 350 lbs. although the hitch is likely stamped with a 300 lb tongue weight. i wouldnt worry about the extra 5 pounds. there would not be a 2 inch receiver available for this car, but there are adapters. but the adapters will increase the leverage on the setup if anything you oculd try to beef up the rear suspension with coil boosters or helper springs if you hitch is from u-haul the warranty will replace it even if damaged from overloading really the way to go wold be to tuy in some guy wires or something similar to supprt the weight of the hitch-haul platform to somewhere off the back of the top of the car

there is also the rubber line that goes to the brake booster under the plenum. check that

use a 3/16 drift punch . its the only way

this is not entirely true. for one, u-haul is the largest by volume retailer of hitch installation anywhere. second, the hitch inventory is comprised of the top manufactures such as valley, curt, cequent, thule, everything but reese. reese is bottom of the shelf wal-mart. third, hidden hitch is a brand name of draw-tite which is vendored by valley which is manufactured by thule. its all the same, just with a u-haul sticker. the hardware kits are supplied by fasten-all the drop menus on my computer include ferarri and lamborghini for the hitch matrix. fourth, a cobalt, volkswagon, and what have you all have their own hitch made for that specific vehicle. if there are any variations of the same platform the hardware kit will include the bolts for several applications for the same vehicle. something like a chevy truck or van my have up to 6 different hitches available for that platform according to the type of bumper, length of bed, weight class and receiver size. fifth, i bet the part number you have there is the same part number with u-haul sixth, i work there and install them all day long! now, if you dont trust the competency of the hitch pro at your local u-haul, that doesnt mean the part is no good and you cant put it on yourself. but have fun doing so without an inverted drill press, ramps, and a jack made for hitch installation. if you have any questions, want a quote or need a part number call me at work 608-221-4277. Right Equipment at the Lowest Cost, Guaranteed! oh yeah, and one more thing, at least you canadians get the turbo diesels for the 14 foot rental truck while we get gas models. and with my previous reply i was referring to ea series. i have installed hitches on the last 3 generations of subaru legacy. and the class of hitch available (class 1 up to 200 lbs, class 2 up to 35oo lbs, class 3 up to 5000 lbs) depends more on how it bolts up to the vehicle more so than the construction of the hitch or the power of the tow vehicle. u-haul will approve a tow dolly on a 3500 lb hitch so long as the vehicle in tow is no more than 3000 lbs on a 500 lb tow dolly. i could go on all day

the filter is on the driver side strut tower. you can use a pair of jaw pliers to gently grab the hose where it meets the filter and give it a twist to break its tension, and work it off back and forth. super easy!

it all bolts up the same parts you will need: transmisson with shifter, shifter boot console plate parts on the car that will fit the same: driveshaft, axles, tranny mount, clutc-flywheel-pressure plate really the only thing you will have to find that matches is a console that is the same color. the threaded end on the clutch cable may be different, if so use a lug nut as a spacer

make sure all the tires are the same size all the way around. torque bind will be caused by driving in 4wd on dry pavement, or a difference in tire size vs the front and rear axles both laterally or diagonally

big pistons equal tork. short crank equals rpms. think of it as a bicycle in a low gear wit strong legs pedalling its rump roast off, with ease

put power to the bvattery and turn off the 4wd button. the car may have to roll to disengage. but it must be in 4wd right now

if you find the governor is bad you can swap in anotherone from any 3spd auto trans wether it be 2wd or 4wd

take a look at the governor, the cup shaped thing on the passenger side of the transmission. take i t out an apart and clean it rather well. make sure the gear is not "apple cored" also, ther eare 2 dipsticks on the transmisson, one foe ATF !! or !!! and one on the top for the front diff, which takes your regular gl-5 gear oil. the governor threads into the diff and is centrifugal activated realtive to rolling speed of the front drivetrain there should be an article on the procedure, search usrm "governor shaft"

wobbly pulleys will squall bets. usually the water pump pulley gets floppy as its on its way out. if the squalling gets worse over time suspect the water pump

if the motor gets hot enough it will thin out the oil pressure. check the coolant cand see if it is low. perjhaps there may be a small leak or loss of coolant. more likely the original radiator is corroded or one of the fans are not working. if hte motor is hot enough it will cook the oil and burn it. so long as the overheat was not prolonged the motor should be ok. take a good look at the radiator and consider replacement. changne the oil. the water pump may also be corroded and is not circukating efficiently. the cooling system is the most critical on these cars. take care of the cooling system(and do the timing belts while you are at it) and the car will take care of you

oh man! now you make me want to go take my heads off and polish them more. mine would be 'lumpy' as you descrabe as they are. the oil idea is fantastic

if you take off the plastic piece between the doors there *should* be a connector for the speaker, you would take from there and just run thru a grommet to the speaker itself