MilesFox

if you only washed your car twice in wisconsin there wouldnt be much left to wash what has rusted away. i second the drafting semis rule. its good practice for ungainly vehicles like toyota campers and u-haul trucks i just acqured an a7 fwd 5spd. i stuffed 14 gallons in it and have gone over 75 miles and now the needle is just starting to move. i dont think the brush-on paint job and the light rack justify much but the dern thing gets twice the economy as my toyota camper, 40 bucks in gas lasts me better than 400 miles, thats's a deal you can live with , son.

you may have to prime the MC bafore connecting the brake lines at the mc. beel the mc at the lines that go to it first, then connect everything and go from there the ea81 mc should have bleeders on the mc itself

i invented a lighting system that goes as such: fog lights under the bumper FLOOD lights ON the bumper driving lights on the roof. the fogs will light up the edge of the road. the flood lights on the bumper will blind dseer a mile away, light up road signs the driving lights on the top will lwt me see when i a m driving in tall grass or weeds, or bean fields. the driving lights on the roof will shine down jast ahead of the lo beams on the road. therwise too bright of lights on top pointes straight ahead will only luight up the tops of trees and bugs and rain and whatnot. the best place for the light bar is at the b-pillar

the motor from the 87 dl (ea82) will fit if you remove or relocate the hill holder or swap in a MC from an automatic. you will have to remove the distributor to install the engine to clear the MC. depending on fitment around the MC and hill holder you may have to clock the disty 10 degrees and keep the rotor true to the cam, and cut off one of the mounting tabs on the disty. if you cut off the jack mount under the hood, you can use the ea82 battery and starter cable to moun the battery on that side, and run a jumper from + to the terminal on the back of the alternator the coil can be relocated as well unless you want to run a ridiculously long coil wire to the disty. if you move the coil to the other side it will fit the disty and coil wire but you will have to run the coil terminal wires extended from the other side.

the guy at the subaru heaven junkyard says to run stright 30 wt. h says "all the other stuff is for women who dont want to hear the lifters tick" and "gums up the motor" i have always used 15w-40 because i get it from u-haul. i have used 20w-50 oil as well. i have been using straight 30 to top off the babe patrol subar abd if i ever get to changing the oil i'll use straight 30 wt.

turning the postons sometimes can be a chore where they jus spon. you would have to ush on them as you turn, small taps with a hammer will help till it catches thread and turns all the way down

i have done the same myself. also, you can replace the rear half of the driveshaft from any MT or AT 4wd shaft, the rears are teh same.

if that key doesnt work the standard replacement key ios the ilco # 37 for nissan.

those ruber hangers are just about the same on any car. use some wd40 and a flat screwdriver to pry them off.

the clutch cable is new, although it may posibly need adjastment

are you sure the timing belt is not broken? suppose it broke and dude replaced the disty and now you have the car. and the belt is still broken? check to see if the rotor is rotating while cranking the motor

ok sow now the distributor is random. the mechanic guy was right but he for got to tell you that you have to continue past the 3 marks for the odeg mark(ign) he was talking about lining the disty right after installng the belt now, if you go lining up the rotor its going to be a guess to tdc or bdc so here is what you do. take off the passenger side timing belt cover. rotate the crank till you see the dot at about a 45 degree angle it will be lining up with the hard edge on the valve cover just above the word SUBARU now your 0deg mark should be very close so go ahead and line that up install the disty so the rotor is pointing directly at the hill holder or where the hill holder wuld be that is the #1 position, rotor is counterclockwise 1342. #1 cylinder is the passenger side but check to see if the rotor is turning with the motor when you crank it, because if it doesnt you have a broken timing belt

if you pay someone have them do the paint. non structural rust like on the trunk you could cut grind or sand off the rusty edged and pop rivet in a piece of sheetmetal or aluminum, its easy to cut and bend and rivets only require a drill and a rivet tool. rivets will hold the same as spot welds you can use a silicone adhesive between the panels so long as you dont make a mess or it will interfere with painting. ihad to make rocker panels on my camper and used a bench vise and a ball peene hammer to shape sheet aluminum. i used materials for repairing u-haul trucks since that are more or less built out of rivets.

i think white would look appropriate if the choice is narrowed down between black or silver i would go with black and the silver bead ring

threads are 1.25 its a tricky thread to find so once you source one keep your business there. other bolts are m8x1.25 and m10x1.25 the only other bolts are the flywheep bolts at m10x1.50 and the pressure plate bolts m8x1.0

to be ironic i live within an hour of both these guys. john i was thru CLEVELAND this last week on my way out to the BABE RALLY in my toyota camper. we brought back team "babe patrol" ea82 87 gl wgon front wheel 5spd. Those guys were from columbus and picked up their car in new hampsire. we brought it back with us as they were flying back. desmond jones has the car and he is in waukesha. i have the day off and a full tank of gas. i also have a pile of subarus in sun praire, the 87 rx, 88 4wd converted sedan, and 87 gl10 turbo wagon with the rx's diveline. i have parts take them away from me! this guy (Nug)went i met im in butler indiana wen we got together for some baja'n and he was there on the babe rally. last year i went in the trashwagon replica nd it blew up in the mountains of virgina. we sold it the other day to a guy in illinois from pennsylvania

you would want to use a heavy enough hammer to have heavy pushing forces rather than quick sharp forces from some puny hammer. it is a spring clip, once you break the tension of the inner race slipping by the rest just pops off. it is cery similar to the spring clip on an axle stub, if you have ever accidentally pulled the stub out with the axle on a transmission this is EXACTLY the way the outer cv is tied together. reassembly you would tap the axle bck thru the race once the balls are assembled and lubed

you proboably would have to split the block in half to get out the rods and crank. you would be surprized how easy it is to pull a subaru motor, as it is a standard procedure for a lot of stuff especially if you take the heads off. for 100,000 miles that is still fairly low, a lot of the ones i see have about 135-185k miles. the re-ring isnt necessary if the car rins and drives like it is, why dont you wait till the motor has better tha 225,000 miles before all that. run straight 30 weight oil

the babe rally is a STREET SAFARI event so your event may be the same people. street safari is fom europe and the babe rally is the first incarnation of this malarky in the USA

it was fun times. i went last year in the trashwagon although it broke down before i got there, but i did catch up on day 2 to run 40 miles of the rally on 2 cylinders and no coolant before we had to abandon it in virginia. tim hansen got TOP GEAR magazine their car and they were with the convoy that joined the trashwagon off the side of the road so since it was the only car that broke down it got a picture in las october's issue of TOP GEAR there was some sort of press this year by automobile magazine, or the babe will be published in RIDES magazine coming up towards fall as far as the question of the car being all stock, do rubber ducks come oem on a chrysler van? basically the car has to be for less than 250 bucks and you can do whatever you want with it. most of you can already go in cars you already have. i went this time in my toyota camper next year i may run the trashwagon replica again and hopefully have the rx put back together, the sedan and the legacy as well, for those who would want to go and dont have a car, just drive all of mine anyway there were 3 subarus this time so hopefully we can have more next year. you guys dont know what you are missing!!!!

the line off the frame is the fuel tank vent line, the other line on the intake is the vac manifold for the purge control.

you will need the trans crossmember and the bolts and rubber bushings. the longer bolts replace a regilar bolt on each of the trianguloid radius plates. the space there the AT's mount is would be a metal plate on the MT. dont forget the driveshaft! the MT driveshaft is longer on the front half becahse the transmisson is shorter than AT the axles will fot on the stubs. you will need the bolts for the flywheel since they are longer than the ones on the flexplate

you may see these codes when the car is not running. the vss will relate to the speedometer.

the intake will come off in one piece. mainly the tougfh thing to figure out is the water passage piping. all the harness will come up with the intake.

look tyo see if the rotor is turning while cranking. if not, then there is your problem