MilesFox

broken timing belt

yeah the rim is fun. you all know the last story! more recently i had aflat and drove on the rmi.grabbed ti hansen and the camera and went to the tire store. got a new mount on a spare rim, toss it under the hood and drive off. all said and done what's left of the ri is hanging on my wall just the other day i had to tow back an ea81 sedan with a flat back tire, on the wayback 60iles and thru milwaukee thank you, my pleasure

i have this idea with an impreza, swapping in an ea82 and ea82tranny, since ithas 23 spline axles, and the wiring harness fried to the 8j18 after an ej22 was swapped in i would figure you have to ake a tranny mount, or somehow mate the ej ount to the ea tranny

its more or less a 1600 ea81, as far as using the same starter position, intake manifold diensions, and water pump the older ea71 had a water pump where the backside was exposed to the outside. the fat ea71 has the sae starter and bolt up to the tranny for the bell housing, but the but where the bell housing bolts onto the bolock, the pattern is saller than the ea81 but the fat case ea71 bell housing will bolt onto the old ea71 to put later trannies in oldersoobs i am not sure if the heads are swappable, but they should have the same valves as ea81. maybe fat ea71 heads will bolt onto old ea71? the fat ea71 is found in hatchbacks, especially after 85 with the dl or std hatch, gl's got ea81

all bolts up the same. you can use your existing driveshaft, tranny mount, and clutch assebly, axles

that vincent guy ended up chopping up that dual pipe. would you believe i have those ufflers kicking around soehwhere?

nice exhaust. me likes it very much! i like especially the placement of the "cherry bombs" trashwagon seal of approval

just build the exhaust after the flange at the end of the y pipe. the stock y is very good if you open up the rest of the exhaust, i say this compared to many exhaust applications i have played with if anything you can hollow out the y if you do some inventing, mind the design of the y pipe as a model

actually if the car is indeed MPFI a turbo will ore or less plug and play, so long as the engine crossmember has the indentation for the turbo exhaust the blocks will swap if you took the otors apart to swap them but to take the otor apart you ay as well do a re-seal on the tired otor, and be good to go. if its an automatic you may as well swap in the 5spd as well

there is a "fuel pump control unit" a small black box under the dasn soewhere near the fuse panel. there is no ecu like in fuel inj models if you have a check engine lite, egr lite, what have it may be, this coeson every so any thousand miles by a switch in the odometer. this does not indicate a problem, it coes oon to remind the egr to be serviced there are a pair of black leads under the dash to reset the light

ditch the muffler and add a cherry bomb, no muffler alone is not that loud if you like to weld put the cherry bomb immediately after the y pipe and straight pipe the rest of the way back, 2 or 2-1/4 inch pipe timing can be bumped up a few degrees as well as a hotter coil and gap the plugs basically the only difference in design between "domestic" and "foreign" engines would be the design and materials qual;ity, as well as the layout. mechanical principles will be the same(spark, fuel, compression etc) read: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/subaru.htm

replace the intake gaskets. see if that cures it. if so, you got a subaru. of not, then you know to look elsewhere, and you are only out the 6 bucks for the gaskets(which can be re-used!)

suppose i could use the article on my website?

had a turbo with a bad rod. pulled the heads to swap onto a carb block one head was a gen 1, the other a gen 2 both heads had cracks between the valves both cracks went all the way down to the VALVE GUIDES ported out the headfs and used them on my carb block build, no problems! paranoia didnt stop me from putting the motor together. if i would have had to spend some money on this project, i would see how it holds up first, then soak it. so far no soak

i will be in sidney ohio this friday. i would be out through ohio again in ay i could plan a stop on my way to NY mostl of my "customers" turn out to be in ohio

for struts i used 2wd legacy struts. the part where the knuckle is boltedto is a little wider so the bolts will have to pinch it down i have seen an xt6 converted fro air strut with an ipreza strut as it was labeled from the salvage. the one tab for the knuckle ount wascut off flush and re-welded for the proper width of the knuckle casting a tapered reamer will do for the ball joints. tie rods should fot the sae but if not swap on xt6's outers to the inner rods

the xt6 axles are 25 spline. the dual range tranny is 23 splines BUT with the 3at TURBO axles, the doj is swappable onto the xt6 axles since they are the same diaeter, but still 23 splines OR you can use impreza 1.8 fwd axles, since they are 23 splines, and fit the same as the xt6 axles

forget theidea and forget what they say, just get a cherry bomb(glasspack muffler), that would be a "real" mod to start with, and get the results you want. but just because the car is louder doesnt mean its faster. may feel faster only because the sound makes you want to get on it! but the cherry bob will fatten out the torque curve and open it up on the highway, help cruising MPG PLEASE stay away from goofy stickers and ridiculous wings. oil and temp gauges are good because they are actually useful have fun, but learn about how a car works before trying to modify it, this isn't a video game when it comes to building a car! http://www.trashwagon.com

does your distributor have a round white(or black) connector? this would be the 86 styledisty connector. the 87 and upwould have a square connector i would believe, as it would be on 87 and later, the disty plugs into the harness under the oil, not on the intake you can improvise a connection and match toe color of wires, or try to find an 87 or later disty, or at least the wire from one describe this extra connector on the intake, what color/shape is it and where located?

your mechanic installed the belts wrong. he installed them with both cams up instead of 180 apart tell him to rotate the crank 360 after the first belt before installing the second belt happens more often than you think here is the timing belt article. this is for a for a 4 cylinder but the alignents are the same http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm print this out for your mechanic

before you do all that check to see if the fuel lines are connected correctly the line off the filter will connect to the iddle and highest line on the intake, the return line is the other, and the skinny is the vapor breather. the fuel coes into the rails BEFORE the INJECTOR side, and the return line is AFTER the fuel pressure REGULATOR

the vibration in the shifter could possibly be the driveshaft u-joints. it will be cheaper to replace theREARHALF of the driveshaft witha salvage one, swap in, vs having the existingreplaced asit requires a slight bit of achining and a press to replace them the rear half of the driveshaft is the same for any ea82 car, 85-94 and xts's should you have the u-joints replaed, toyota joints willwork. if you have this done have it done at a shop that is experienced withstaked u-joints if you got the salvage driveshaft instead its a matter of 8 12mm bolts to replace it i would agree with the advice to hold off on oil leaks until the timing belts are due i would avoid the oil stop leak additives, just use the max life, or themax life additive to new oil before you change your oil, run 1/2 to 1 quart of ATF in the oil for about a days worth of driving, to help clean the oil passges and the hydraulic lifters if you want to read more about servicing the car check my website: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm you can refer to these articles yourself or print theout for anyone you would find to do the work for you

i concurr. drop the steering column. pay as well pull it our bt reoving the bolt on the colun side of the u-joint under the hood with the column in the car you will have to aneuver the assembly quite a bit to get it in/out

moisture in the distribulator. leave the cap off overnite to air out, shoot it up with some wd-40 had the same problem yself after hosing down the motor. i took out the disty and blew it our with air, dried it up what i could. problem solved

the 4 spd AT has 25 splines. your 5spd is 23 splines. you will have to swap the WHOLE AXLE with a 23 spline. the only exception, you can swap the doj(inner cup) with one from a TURBO 3SPD AT as the doj itself is the same diameter as the 25 spline, but has 23 spline source some regular 23 spline axles if you have a choice for axles, such as buying new ones, order a set for a 3spd turbo AT, since this will be the right spline(23), but the axle itself will be thickest, the same turbo rated axles as the 25 spline