MilesFox

ses it be so! i have a 2wd at sedan converted to 4wd 5spd. just so long as you have all the parts its all bolt on for the m ost part you will, however, ,have to m ake a mount for the driveshaft. you will have to drill so me holes in the back and use bolts to m ount the rear diff hanger

if the tranny you will be using is non turbo, you will need the axles too. turbo 5spds and 4spd automatics are 23 splines. non turbo and 3spd ats ,even turbo 3spd ats are 23 splines. but ,turbo 3spds have a fatter diameter DOJ that is swappable onto a 25 spline axle

where abouts in wisconsin are you at? im in milwaukee with 2 garage fulls of subarus:headbang: is the non turbo mpfi? hollar hollar milesfox@yahoo.com

adjust the clutch cable and see if that helps

i have had belts strip teeth in my car. turned the otor and the belt did not spin ,although the belt was not broken i suggest doing the tim ing belts yourself and run them no covers(for future maintenance) http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

if your car is a 4spd than its 4wd dual range if its a 5spd its FWD automatics are single range none of the 4wd 4spds were single range for that year

i would go the route of using a n/ block. less work and likely less stressed as well as far as carb and spfi blocks go you will have to bypass the pcv outlet on the back of the block because its not present on spfi and carb if you were to find a n/a xt motor with spider intake , the block WILL have this pcv the knock sensor will fit on the carb and spfi as the threaded hole is present my buils was on a carb block 9.0 compression. ported heads and stock management. regular 87 octane and 20-23 deg tiing caleb has pretty much the same build withthe carb block

i will go by driving the car. swap arpund cams and exhausts to see what i get. good idea about having the cams measured. i'll see if they can grind them for me. now only if they can calculate what cam profile would be best compared to stock numbers and if i have my heads bench flowed(this would be good to match them withthe port job) i guess i will have to go do some hollerin' meanwhile i am in the middle of taking the old motor out of the sedan. my dual exhaust is caved in on one side so i may do other exhaust ideas this time

as far as having the machine work done i already have the valves off the head, and a seal set. i suppose they will need the valves to grind them but i can put them back on once the job is done i guess i will have to go with my gut or trial and error withthe cams, i guess physically compare them, but it wont be hard to swap the cams on a running motor to compare!

they should be 19mm if im not mistaken. if not it could be 22 mm(7/8")

could you please update the link to my website. the link is: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/subaru.htm and list it as "Miles Fox's Subaru" also you can throw a link to http://www.trashwagon.com if you like!

i am porting a pair of carb heads(no cracks and 135,000 mi) for a 101,000 mi spfi block i am porting with a dremel and flex extension and a putting the final touches on the job. i have a 2 part question 1. shaving the heads there is a volkswagon shop behind the local napa MOFOCO if you have heard of them , i was thinking about having my heads achined there. what i want to know what would be a recommended amount to take off. .010, .050???? i am using spfi block and intake i do understand if i go too far the intake wont match the same, but it shouldnt be any different than putting a gen1 ea71 intake on an gen 2 or ea81, as far as that goes i can slot holes and whatever. i am more concened about valve clearances also what would i get for compression ratio starting with 9.5:1 and then shave the heads whatever amount what should i expect to pay including a valve grind? what are the options for bigger valves? the heads are from an 87 carb 2. spfi vs mpfi-n/a cams i have either the cams original to the block or a pair from an 87 xt mpfi non turbo. is there a difference withthe cam profiles? i know that mpfi yeilds a little more HP so i wonder if the cams will make advantage with ported heads and dual exhaust, and valve clearance opinions? once i get a sharper dremel bit and another days time i will be ready to torque the heads on

turn the nuts on the bolts ont he bottom of the dtrut. soak them down with your favorite lube and tund the nuts so they move up, thus compressing the spring. turn the alternately between one side and the other, and count the turns/threads or use a tape measure between the hub/tire and the fender

"floppy carb syndrome" idles fast and hard to start. if you tighten them up they will loosen eventually. use loc-tite!!

i like ea81 bodies and ea82 drivelines. ea82 and dual range 5spd in an ea81 body is the way to go for me

my 90 loyale will start without the clutch, and has a split folding back seat. might as wellbe a GL with no options and no plastic on the tailgate corners. but it says loyale on the door must be a FIRST run of "loyale" i bet the mfr date is 89

lock the diff this will work. DO NOT ENGAGE/DISENGAGE diff lock when CAR IS IN MOTION!!! as far as the hubs the axle is splined, not pressed, so the wheel is held on by the hub itself and the axle is not part of this like the older 4 lugs the xt6 axle fits the same as legacy and impreza axles, 25 spline you may get axles cheaper if you order them for a NEWER model subaru, awd models

the only thing different about the driveshaft is the front half, due to the length of their respective tranny. the rear half is all the same if you found a shop or the right tools to replace the u-joint itself i believe one from a certain model toyota will fit subarus. but this involves slight machining of the staked in caps

if you can find a junk yard, the rear half from any ea82 4wd driveshaft, including xt's will fit the same. both u-joints are on the rear half....

90-95 legacy

Timing Belt Check and Replacement Timing Belt Check and Adjustment The Timing Belts can be Visually inspected and Adjusted by removing the outer belt covers and the tensioner access plugs. To remove the outer belt covers, use a 10mm ¼” drive socket and remove the 3 bolts from both the left and right covers. The bolts thread into a brass fitting molded into the plastic. Be careful not to apply too much torque as it can crack the plastic. If indeed the brass fitting is spinning in the plastic, the timing cover can still be pulled away with gentle persuasion with a screwdriver. Wit the outer covers removed, you can check for the physical condition of the belt. Be aware of oil on the belts, as that may warrant an engine seal replacement. Oily belts will also be wakened. Check for cracks and frays on the belt, and that the teeth do not appear to have a definite seam where the teeth attach to the belt. Determine from the condition of the belts and the mileage at which they were last serviced to consider replacement. If the belts check out ok, they can be adjusted. On the front of the center belt cover there are 2 access plugs for the tensioner pulleys, one for each side. Remove the plugs by hand or with a small screwdriver. I find it easiest to do the adjustment from under the car. It may be necessary to remove the skidplate on 4wd models. Use a 12mm 3/8” drive socket and extension. Loosen both bolts a few turns on each tensioner. (DO NOT TAKE THEM OUT) With the bolts loose, the spring-loaded tensioner will take up any slack on the belt. It will also help to torque the cam pulley with a spanner wrench or other device. You can take a screwdriver and stick it on one of the holes on the cam sprocket, and use a hammer to gently “tap” the pulley on the left to the left, and the pulley on the right to the left also, to help take any slack out of the crankshaft drive side of the belt. Now get back under the car and tighten up the tensioner bolts, and re-install the lugs and outer covers. Inner Timing Belt Cover Removal Follow the Radiator Removal or Engine Removal Procedure You will have to remove the timing belt covers to service timing belts, engine seals, oil and water pump. Remove all the belts to the engine ancillaries. Some AC equipped models you will have to remove the compressor and bracket as a unit, as part of it comes in front of the belt covers. First off, loosen the 22mm (7/8) crank pulley. You can put the car in gear on Manual Transmission models. But for all models, you can brace a breaker bar against the DRIVER side of the car(USA), and bump the starter to break the torque loose. A prybar can also be stuck into the flexplate through the timing window to loosen or tighten the crank pulley bolt. Remove the dipstick and its tube with a 12mm wrench. Disconnect the Oil Pressure sending unit wire that comes down in front of the cover. Remove the outer belt cover as described above. Now with the crank pulley off, remove all the 10mm bolts from the inner cover. The bolts along the bottom will have 10mm nuts behind them. If you need to remove the plastic behind the timing belts, the cam sprockets and idler pulley must be removed. Timing Belt Removal and Installation Now that we have the Timing Belt Covers off, we can service or replace the timing belts. Re-install the crank pulley and bolt. Turn the bolt clockwise so that you line up the tree belt timing marks on the flywheel with the notch on the bell housing. They will be 3 lines in a row; they are separate marks than for the ignition timing (0 deg). With the belt marks on the flywheel lined up, turn the driver side cam sprocket so that the dot on the sprocket is pointing UP with the notch on the inner plastic. Now install the driver side belt (in the case of a broken belt, the passenger side belt has to be removed to install the driver side belt). Adjust the tension in the same manner described in Timing Belt Check and Adjustment. Now turn the crank bolt 360 degrees, one full rotation, so that the driver side cam sprocket makes a 180 deg rotation so it is pointing DOWN. Now turn the passenger side cam so that its dot faces UP with the notch on the inner plastic. Install the passenger side belt and adjust the tension. Next turn the crank another full 360 deg rotation so that the passenger cam is pointing down, and the DRIVER side cam is pointing UP. With the driver side cam pointing up, the 3 timing belt marks will be in line. So with the 3 marks in line, turn the crank clockwise until the 0deg BTDC mark comes up. Use this mark to install the Distributor if it has been taken out. With all the marks verified as lined up, put all the covers back together, job is complete!

another difference is ea81 flywheels are beveled on the inside edge wheras ea82 are cornered use the flywheel for the tranny you are using flywheels will fit eaither way, ea82's onto ea81's and ea81's onto ea82's if you drill out the holes

if the water pump is different, just use the pulley that goes with it when you swap

broken timing beltt is easy to fix swap in a dual range tranny car has unrealized potential check this out! www.trashwagon.com click on my sig as well...

what was i doing? bringing my car back from idaho and decided to baja somehere in iowa on the way back. oh, you mean the sheriff? i was out baja'n in a private field when the property across the stream called the pigz. wrong property. the pigs got smart and came onto our side of the stream and i gave them a run. man, i should have taken them for LAPS!! i knew better than to go on the road with it. they shouldnt have been there to begin with so i dont want to hear it!!