MilesFox

advance auto or auto zone should have them. take a lok in the HELP! brand aisle, you should find a package of 2 "import exhaust stud"

a quart of atf and a days worth of driving will do the trick the engine flush in the can is more or less kerosene

unscrew the shifter knob and take op the cover plate. remove the 6 screws and the metal ring to take up the innere boot. the inner boot is fixed to the 4wd lever so you will have to inside-out the boot there you will see the 4wd lever connected to the rod to the tranny. chances are this rod is on upside down, the rod should be on the bottom and the mounting tab cacing up vertically. if its the other way around then there is your problem

parting off a car the entire strut assembly is all you need. if buting new strits you will need also the spring and the strut cap both front and rears are direct bolt ins. disconnect the compressor or pull its fuse or it will run constantly stressing the alternator

you will have to make a mount for the carrier bearing on the driveshaft, as the 2wd bodies dont have the mount the gas tank will be the same for 2wd and 4wd ea82 if you search you may find my design for the driveshaft mount my current ride is a 3at fwd converted to 4wd 5spd dual range i have converted 2 5spd fwd to 5spd 4wd's. the carrier mount i made was built around an ea81 and fiton an ea82 i did 2 conversions for alleyboy, one of which i made the mount the basic dimensions are a strip of flat steel 12 inches long, with 2 holes 10 inches apart on center. this mounts to the body. there are 2 pieces of 1 inch steel 4 inches long and mounted 6 inches apart for the carrier. if you look on the carrier mount one tab is higher than the other, so one of the 4 inch pieces fits on top the 12 inch part, and the other in the bottom. the 4 inch oieces are welded to the 12 inch piece after they are bolted to the carrier itself. the holes for the body are drilled throught the holes on the mount after its mocked up to the underside with a jaxk the holes will come through where the seat cross rail meets the tranny tunnel, some big flat washers will form into the crevice holding the head of the bolt still to turque up from underneath

an ea82 flywheel will bolt onto an ea81 motor, but to use an ea81 flywheel on an ea82 you will have to drill out the holes for the ea82's larger bolts

i would vote to pul the motor. change all the gaskets and seals. remove all the timing belt covers inner and outer, but leave the piece in back around the idler pulley change the oil pump seal definately. change the water pump now, but if you want to hold out you can change it with ease withthe absence of the timing belt covers. makes future maintenence much easier

how is the rust? on a wagon check behind the plastic sides of the tailgate bedise the window(gl) if its a sedan check behind the plastic venting besde the rear windows. the one side wheel arch was rusted out on my sedan because a hole had rusted behind the plastic venting thus letting water collect inside the body

if you had a spare set of pilleys to expend you can try slotting the bolt holes and pin hole to achieve your cam advance the seam for the valve cover gaskets is the same as the plastic mark on the covers also the passenger side cam will line up tp the hard corner on the valve cover for o deg btdc

my sedan with slight seepage past the crank seal(filed down burr on crank) and blue smoke upon deceleration, i just changed it with 20w 50 in the turbo wagon i just changed with 15w 40 u-haul truck oil

immediately after the y pipe flange mount a 2in or 2 1/4 inch cherry bomb there, and run 2 1/2 inch after that to the back axle. if you curve it out the side 90 deg. before the tire you can use the stock exhaust mount from the body

i second the notion of a 1/4" drive ratchet when not using a torque wrench. you want them hand tight and about 1/4 turn. be careful as the bolt will seem ligke its tightening more but youre twisting it off! torque evenly a little bit each bolt at a time in sequence

a lot of times a bulb out is from a loose connection on the socket, wiggling the bulb will make it come back on, as in 90% of lights out on u-haul tricks is the case

if you removed the crank pulley and the belt cogs from the crank snout that will be the mark relative to the flywheel, the mark that represents ALL pistons are in the center of their bore. the cams will line up to the notch in the plastic, which will also be the seam for the valve cover gaskets o deg btdc will be the passenger side cam lined up with the corner ridge of the valve cover check this out: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

i'll be out that way for thanksgiving. i think danny will be going to columbus. jim i can come down should i have time, i will be asking for the 23rd to the 27th off from work. have to tow subarus around to and from butler

yes! the 5 gallon bucket. milk crates work good too!

the caliper is held on by a 14mm bolt. the bottom one comes out, the top one is just a slide pin make sure the parking brake is off. you will have to turn the pistons to make them go n with either a piston tool, or channel lock pliers and the nose end of needle nose pliers or the jaw end of jaw pliers the rotpr and hub will come off together. the hib is bolted to the rotor by 4 14mm bolts the hub/rotor assembly is held onto the axle by a 36mm nut and coter pin. pay attention to the washers as they fit on a certain direction to hold torque, the flat washer is axtually convex, the convex side towards the nut torque for the nut is 145 lb/ft, or basically hand tight then 1/4 turn http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/frontdisc.htm

whereabouts in michigan? i ised to live in fort wayne indiana but i moved to milwaukee wisconsin. i still roll through the area quite often have fun!!

you can use the axles from a fwd ej18 impreza as the length is right and they have 23 splines for n/a ea82 trannies you can also swap on the doj cup from a turbo automatic ea82 axle onto the ej as its the same diameter of the 25 spline axles but its still 23 splines(turbo 3spds only)

oil pump write up with pictures http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm

maybe its a bad intake gasket....

the speedo cable for the 5spd will be longer, but this is all you will need for the speedo. you will have to bypass the neutral and park switched by jumping the 2 fattest wores together on the car end of the tranny harness. you may get a check engine light for the neutral and park switch codes, but it wont affect the performance of the motor

use a long pipe to come in from the front, under the axle and brace against the radius rod mount so that you can push the lower control arm down if you dont have a pickle fork you can jack up the stud after you remove the nut, and tap around the lower control arm with a heavy hammer to pop it loose on the knuckle side, take the pinch bolt out. you may need to wedge the split open to pull it out, it can be rather rusty there. you can slip the stud back in the hole and thread the nut on so you can use the pipe to push down on the lower control arm to pull it loose

jack up the tranny so that the motor slides on without the motor mounts catching the frame

leave the one behind the idler pulley there, its the one to the right of the oil pump. i break off the part that overlaps the oil pump itself to allow for seal replacement without taking the cover off. this is the only place where the belts would be otherwise exposed from the back the metal piece is turbo specific as it acts as a heat shield, this part fits with the part you would leave non, and the bottom of the oil pump itself both trashwagon6 and the sedan at the columbus meet ran open belts and i believe jason's does too the only reported open belt failure thus far was from a loose rag under the hood wrapping around the crank pulley, on my car