MilesFox

wagon suspension is best i put one on my sedan 2wd at to 4wd 5spd conversion

put the motor together as much as you can before dropping it in! all of me experiences the motor comes out or goes in withthe turbo and cross pipe installed. especially with the little bracket that mounts to the head, and the oil return line, much easier to install before dropping the motor even if the intake is not installed yet, you can put on the turbo anyway once the motor is in, slide the downpipe onto the turbo studs before drawing up the bellhousing all the way. the downpipe itself mounts to the side of the tranny, so long as its mounted to the tranny before the motor was taken out, it will align right up when the motor goes in if you never had installed amotor yet, place a jack under the tranny so the engine studs can align without the motor mounts catching the frame

to use the hitachi you will need the hitachi inbtake as well as the carb mountings are different than carter-weber

i prefer the napa gold or silver oil filter 21361 and 1361. they are the same as the WIX filter and share the same part number 51361 i believe an oil filter for a 5.0 liter ford will fit the same for a bigger filter. i have on on the toyota camper which would also fit the subaru as far as oil i get it all day from u-haul, but if i had to buy it i would get the napa brand as its the same as valvoline, i have used the synthetic and synth blend, as well as regular. good price with napa i think i generally get all my parts from napa when it comes to gaskets and seals and fliuds or what not, and auto zone or adv auto for things that arent mechanical related

i am legend:rolleyes: it was fun. too bad the original post got deleted

if you have a crane you can get away with changing the clutch by suspending the motor but not taking it out i did this once, took me 2 hours. i removed the radiator, the clutch fan, and disconnected the heater hoses, took out the pitch bar, dropped the exhaust and undud the motor mount all the wires and vacuum and fuel hoses, throttle cable i left connected, lifted the motor far enough to clear the fame and move to the front about 6 inches. you willheve enough room to remove the PP and the clutch disc, although you will have to fanagle around the input shaft since you wont have room for the clitch alignment tool you can remove the starter to tighten the pp bolts once the input is aligned you wont have access to the pilot bearing this way last clutch i did we pulled the tranny and it went rather smoothly. loosen the motor half of the pitch bar, drain the tranny oil, drop the tranny mounts. you will have to pop the ball joint to pull off the axles from the tranny with the weight of the tranny hanging down, re-tighten the pitch bar to hold the motor at that angle, until you get the tranny out and back into the car its not much more work to pull the motor, plus this will gain you acess to the valve covers and rear seal, and anything else you wish to service withthe motor out of the car

here are a sequence of ea82 teardown pics. dont mind the mini- and html files in the directory as they are part of a defunct gallery http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/rxbuild/

i will have 22 thru 27 off work, email me your phone number i can call tonight within the hour, i cleaned out my PM wisconsin is an hour back now, i presume oh is the same time as IN, its 10:15 here so it must be 11:15 there

check the fuse panel for any bad fuses. there is an anti diesel solenoid that prevents fuel to the bown when the engine is shut off. if the valve does not poen the car will run off the choke try jumping a wire to the solenoid and see if it gets fuel in the venturi

when the engin e is cold take off the radiator cap and see how low the coolant is its possible you could be using coolant thru a bad intake gasket not to scare you, but a cracked head can leak coolant into the exhaust pipe but the head would be fine otherwise(compression and gasket) and could be leaking into the exhaust and burning away. this problem would usually have a little steam when warming up and would go away after warm up may want to check or replace the intake gasket to start with and might as well replace any of the small coolant hoses as well

u-haul trucks use interstate batteries

check to see if the distributor is turning. take the cap off and watch it turn. if it doesnt turn perhaps you have a broken timing belt. check the screw on the rotor if the rotor does turn check the fuse panel

you can put the doj end on and feed through the spindle end as far as it will go. then you can tap on the knucke with a rubber mallet or hammer to get it throught enough for the axle nut

ea81 and 85-86 turbos it will be under the fender. it connects entirely to the distributor

if the car is 2wd a broken axle will cause the same problem, as well as a stripped hub if the car is 4wd and you take off in 4wd and it goes, this would very much be the problem

if you are going as far as head gaskets you will need to take of the cam towers to do this you will have to take of the timing belt covers there is an o ring in the passage between the cam tower and the head. there is no gasket but it takes anaerobic sealer "permatex ultra grey" or "import grey rtv" scrape out the old rtv from the groove

if yours is not turbo you have a 3.9. the existing driveshaft and diff will work to use an lsd you will have to swap the 3.9 ring gear to the lsd carrier you will need the e-10 socket for the axle studs

stock ea82 roof rack works great. if you dont have one you can install one on a sedan or 3-door, take off the headliner sedans and 3doors trim the end of the rails about 1 inch on each end with a hacksaw if you make a pigtail connection for the lights tou can take it down or swap it to other soobs

typical flux core welders, dont burn through, let the welds cool. weld as if you were stitching and fill the middle i find it easiest to tack weld the assembly and take it off the car to weld it fully if the flange at the y pipe is intact you can bolt onto that. dont make the exhaust one piece from the motor. this will be fun when you try to wotk underneath.

if you cand find a listing for the coolant temp sensor at the parts counter, try looking for a nissan 200sx, pick the brown one as its the same my experience with advance auto is they had no listing for any subaru turbo, but the nissan was in stock, same part

3.9 gear. the only other dual range tranny for a turbo was the full time, which would have a vacuum diaphragm on the side for the diff lock

i would place my bets on moisture in the distributor i washed the motor on my loyale. the next day it would start, but die oand not start a block down the road. the cap was dry. i took the disty out and took it apart, and found moisture inside. i would try leaving the cap off overnite to dry out or spray some w-d inside the disty itslef. i come to this conclusion since the problem arose after washing the car. if you drove 5000 miles before hand i wouldnt think anything else went bad all of a sudden

the coolant sensor is the one on the thermostat housing with the green connector. the one withthe spade connector is for the gauge itself there is what is called the "idle air control" valve (skip knows this) on the throttle body that introduces a false vacuum leak to idle the engine up when cold. you can take this apart and clean it liberally with arb cleaner. its located on the front of the throttle body, the horizontal roind piece across the front the fuel injection system on subaru is very simple, the crank angle sensor is in the distributor, you have the engine temp sensor on the thermostat, and the IAC valve. thats pretty much it you can try reading the codes on the ecu, there is an led on the ecu itself, you will find it if you drop the panel under the steering column plug in the white connectors under the hood near the strut tower to read the codes you will find the ecu codes page on this website: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

carb motor bottom end. like the one sitting in the black wagon. while its apart, port the heads a little. more low end grunt and faster spool up. feel free to take a spin in trashwagon 6 should you find your way to milwaukee, as it has this setup, stock timing and intake,exhaust. drive and compare! i got a spare set of tubo heads, one of which i started to port, you can use them with your carb motor until its put together enough to drop in the rx! dremel and snake atatchment caleb, why not mention the carb block, like you have already?

u-haul even uses a product, ina u-haul label can marked "u-haul penetrating lubricant" looks and smells just like pb blaster. i like to lube leaf springs on the trailers. they also use "super slick stuff" which has a lemony smell, its good for overhead door tracks. they also use permatex silicone spray anyway i have 3 things to use at my disposal for various applications