MilesFox

the reason you are pulling a code 11 with the key on is the engine is not running. you will want to start and run the engine. the reason you are getting the code 11 is the distributor is not turning! try the code next time after starting the motor and see if anything else comes up

its just more legos, from a different kit. who says you cant mix lego and mega bloks?

well since the car has sat you are hearing the hydraulic valve lifters. its normal for the tick to occur after the car has sat, or even after a top end rebuild run the car for a while as they have gone dry from sitting, eventually the noise should clear up its nothing to worry about, sometimes a perfectly running subaru will make the noise on and off, its nothing major as a mechanical issue, more of an annoyance run new oil and a filter and drive the car, dont be afraid to get some rpms should the noise not clear up try repplacing the oil pump seal as this would be the other common cause for the noise

they mount the same using the same driveshaft and crossmember, clutch and all. like legos man, you knew that. LEGOS. is it the same size, does it fit? just remember the lego man!

i have done it. you will need to make a mount for the carrier bearing, and drill out holes for the diff hanger in back other than that its all bolt on aside from the tranny, you will need teh diff, driveshaft, entire rear suspension assembly(the tube frame has the diff mount, the trailing arms have the axle stubs) and of course, the flywheel and clutch, and the bolts for the flywheel as they are longer than the AT flexplate to crank and, dont forget the pedal assembly i drive min eall the time 2wd at to 4wd 5spd the shifter and console plates fit the same there is no cutting or fabrication other than the carrier bearing mounts itself, and drilling holes in the back

1st gear doesnt like to downshift till after you stop. no need for a 1st gear downshift while moving with the car's gearing. shifting at 2000 rpms is ok but is this vs. shifting at a higher or lower rpm. dont drive below 1500 rpms, shift between 25 and 45 depending on acceleration (preferrably 3000-3500 rom, 4000-4500 for on-ramp acceleration also what year and model is your car?

external dimensions are the same, aside from the diaphragm sticking out of the full time for that matter the full time is the same as pushbutton with the diaphragm (overall dimensions)

i have seen this on an 87 carb cluster. i think it trips at a set mileage to throw the check engine light, to remind you of routine maintenance schedule as far as grease in the speedo head, check the seal where the cable meets the tranny, as when the seal goes bad it will draw diff oil up through the cable. without checking the seal its likely this will occur again

well they will probably issue the mt series trailer or the av series trailer, but the rv covered trailer has a trailer brake and this mini van almost wasnt allowed to go with it with his class 2 hitch till the manager inspected the gvwr as far as my example they wont let a tow dolly go with an older soob, or even a newer soob

the bearings should last the life of the car, or at least the life of the seals. new bearings should have new seals

you will be good for the immediate while and most likely thru winter. really you should only worry about it after the boot rips as far as remanufactured goes with lifetime warranty, order one for the right, replace it. when the left side goes out honor the warranty for the right axle your warranty will state right axle, and the parts counter isnt going to acknowledge the right and left axles fit the same so in theory one axle with a lifetime warrany will replace any other axles on any other soobs thereafter!

make all clutch adjustments before the hill holdr adjustment. majke sure the hill holder is not too tight to begin with anyway. i tighten the nut by hand till it takes the slop out of the fork. then a turn or 2 to set my pedal where its comfortable you want your pedal to engage right off the floor, not way up at the dash

yeah i should have got the gallon can insteadof the quart

the reason there is a hitch for a wagon and not a sedan is the floor on the bottom is flat on a wagon, the hitch bolts on in place of the tow hooks if you look on a sedan the passenger side is like the wagons, but the driver side tow hook bolts onto the part where the floor curves up toward the bumper. if you could fabricate a mounting plate there you can retrofit a wagon hitch older ea81 hitched bolt to the bumper and thru the floor. i retrofitted one onto my sedan. had to make holes but its rock solid. use some thick metal for the bolts to go through on the top side the bumper part i had to cut holes to get a wrench on the nut side of the bolts

dont forget the hub bolts directly to the brake rotor, so heat will be different depening on the amount the brakes are used (obvious logic)

i remember working on jims car, we replaced the temp sensor for the ecu so we know thats good. the ecu kept pulling maf codes intermittently, as wiggling wires caused inconsistent troubleshooting jim, didnt you clean the aic, or have me clean it? i remember cleaning one there unless it was the one on the sedan. maybe when the motor(in the dl) was still in the blue wagon i cant remember.

clutch cable is too tight!!!!

i would only suggest it if its a 5spd. ats are too weak, but are geared low enough i work at uhaul and no, they wont issue a trailer for an older soob, but yes, i tow my rx in excess of 300 miles thru chicago with my 2wd at to 4wd 5spd conversion sedan funny thing about u-haul is they wont issue a trailer to ford explorer for liability reasons. and this comes from ford. wut whats stupid about it is they WILL issue one for a mercury mountaineer. just tell them you have a legacy

make sure the weep hole isnt dripping. seen re-man do it right out of the box. jb weld after 2 gaskets

i have seen use of the ac cause a soob to stallat slow speed driving, turning think of all that load as far as fuel economy is concerned automatics suck as this loyale i sold turns the same rpm at 45 mph as my 5spd does at 60 p mph

m8 88 sedan 2wd at to 4wd 5spd can go from columbus ohio to chicago illinois, or fort wayne indiana to milwaukee, wisconsin filled to the brim till it clicks and squeeze another dollar in there, i got 457 miles when i ran out of gas. keep in mind the car was loaded down with most of the stuff i own and on the top as well. meant to run out as i had a 5 gallon can full in the back the low wfuel warning lite was good for almost 100 miles

how about the system needs charged? there are 2 pressure switches that need to see pressure before the compressor will kick on, yoiu can unplug the pressure switches and jump the terminals see if this works. if it comes on, then have the system recharged

you cant just cram 65 miles per hour into 2ng gear ithout doing something in between i drive by when i need to slow down, i let off the gas. that easy. this would be the real "downshifting" we would like to refer to because its the "negative tourque" that creeps you down, coasting with the engine engaged to the tranny so to speak. why would we need to shift into neautral. neutral is for when youre not moving:) if you need to slow down use the brake. if you are still within ghe gear's rpm you can go again with the gas, since you dont have to use the clutch so much as you slow down more than the gears, rpm, of course, downshift. my rer drum shoes are about to fall apart so im easy on the wheel cylinder, i downshift whilt riding on the brakes. not cramming the brakes all at once, not dragging them, but just cousting withy clutch out and making "jabs" at the brake although not all hard and such. brake to stop from slowing what i will do is let off the gas and use the brake, shif tinto 2nd as i roll up to a stop, neutral waitong for green slowing down form an exit ramp i will just coast as i merge off, in gear to start losing speed. as the speed limin reduces around the ramp i will downshif to 4th and touch the brake here and there. coming to a stop 2nd gear in or out of the clutch as necessary, brake to stop simple dynamics, "let off the gas"

same bellhousing an 2wd at will fit in place of a 4wd at 2wd 5spd will fit in place of 4wd 4spd ats will fit in 5spds and vice versa, so long as the right mounts go along with ea82 and ea81 use the same bellhousing clutch will be specific to the tranny all fwd 5spd use the same clutch, all 4spd dual range use same clutch, all ea82 5spd 4wd wether it be turbo or non or dual range or single or full time or xt6 use the same clutch turbo axles are 23 splines all others are 23 if there is anything else you need to know just ask

you shouldnt show or pull a gun unless you intend to use it. dont whip one out on someone to scare them. situations like that may get you capped yourself.