MilesFox

thas what i would think. there is a legacy in a junkyard here i will see if i can get it should you not find one, i will be coming to the iowa meet i could bring it and put it in for you.

seeing ther top of the trim is missing they may have just pulled the window far enough back to reach in. i have done this to break into my own cars, so if they were smart enough to realize this that is how they got in. were ALL the doors unlocked? better that than a broken window sux they took your stuff, whoever did it either had to know about the equip, that or some visitors were around though they would "go shopping" car stereo punks probably riding stolen bicycles. at least they didnt get the stereo itself, if i remember right that was mp3? dam columbus is going insane. forst johns car gets backed into and now your radio. DAMMIT

i would vote for a broken passenger timing belt. suppose if there were no belt covers you could fix it in 20 min with 3 tools! if i were you i would try to fix it myself as a last ditch effort

talk about rust, you cant find anything better than this in the midwest. runs and drives but otherwise junk believe it or not cars this rusty are legally registered and driving around these parts. and thay junk cars over a speck of surface rust out there.. HA!

if the bolt is stubborn use steady even torque, it should break free. you dont wanbt to torque the bolt faster than it can flex/unscrew as this will twist it off. just be slow and paitent, even pressure on the torque, dont pull too hard or too fast, take your time nice and steady.

if you have a lot of oil on the engine crossmember its probably most likely the valve cover gaskets as well for 600 bucks the job better include complete fron end service, timing belts, cam and crank seals, valve cover seals, water pump and oil pump seals. since its the same amount of work to do one or all you could take a crack at doing the work yourself to save money, all the parts can be had within 100 bucks

the sensor with one terminal is for the gauge itself. the sensor with the green clip is for the ecu the temp switch for the fan is located on the radiator itself, just above the drain valve

i myself am re-doing my website, can i make a link to yours?

the harness that is unplugged is the grey harness for the engine intake. with the ej22 swap, the intake harness was different so the 1.8 intake had to stay, and also the 1.8 cam sensors and stuff were swapped onto the 2.2 block the car has its original alternator and intake. i'll tell my buddy to unplug the alternator and see if that does anything also if you have something to refer to which fuse is what that would go a long way

i just blew it all out. this car had 10 year old gas with fresh gas mixed in. if anything let it sit overnite with fuel injector cleaner or the like. drive it around to slosh it around

i fits running like a misfire maybe the injector resistor is going out. anyway my buddy had a legacy with a misfire it idla nd while driving. it didnt buck or kick but you can tell one cyl wast firing all the time. no amount of changing the wire, changing the injector, or changing the whole motor for thet matter made a difference. then he changed the resistor and all was good this resistor is located on the firewall and is encased in aluminum, long rectangular housing on a triangular mounting plate. maybe you an heve this part tested or compare it to resistance values in some sort of suabru manual

that piece on top of the thermostat housing with the 4 screws is the idle air control valve. it is temp sensitive in the way that is introduced a false vavuum leak when colt do keep idle rpms up anywy what you are looking for is behind the intake between the turbo. here is a picture from the back side of the intake, just under where the turbo would sit. you may have to take up the intake boot to get a good look. a long extension and a deep 17mm socket will get to it. be careful not to lose the copper washer. you have to remove the clip around the connector to get it off

if it starts hard on a warm start i would suspect the engine temperature sensor, not the one for the gauge but the one for the ecu.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v469/tonysmudbog/3rd%20Annual%20Subaru%20Alliance%20Meet/ the sedan with the 7 on the hood, the light blue wagon, and the wagon with the orange stripe are all running open belts. never a failure yet!

the sensor at the thermostat housing with a single blade terminal is fo rthe gauge itself. if you replaced this one, the one sending the code is the one located behind the turbo and is for the ecu if you indeed replaced the wrong one, the one behind the turbo has a connector like the injectors have, and the sensor itself is brownish in color. try cleaning the contacts first and see if this clears the code if you have problems locating this part at the parts store, a nissan 24o sx sensor is the exact same thing. they will have ablue or brown one listed, ask for the brown one i asked for one for a subaru turbo, not avaialble, subaru rx, not available, gl-10 not available. ok lets try nissan. what kind? pick one. how about 240 sx? ok. in stock, brown or blue? let me see them. ok the brown one. same part as the subaru works just fine!

i run coverless on my belts, all the covers are gone except the one behind under the water pump as this is the only place the belts are exposed from the back side. never had a problem with debris although one time i left a loose rag under the hood and it snapped the belts when it wrapped around the crank pulley. but then again it only took me 10 minutes to replace both belts go ahead and remove whetever other plastic you wish. your future maintenance will appreciate it:)

there are 2 89 turbos that i have seen that do not have an egr valve, or the bosses for one as they appear to have been eliminated for that year and maybe on up from the factory

the engine is grounded properly. the motor ran for a whole day, and didnt start the next day and was displaying these problems. check my last post i edited it with more simptoms added also, the temp gauge is always pegged at hot with the key off. when the key is on, it settles where it should be. when the key is off again, it immediately shoots up to hot. this is with or without the harness plugged in key off, when the wiring for the fuel pump/sendingunit is unplugged, the gas gauge goes to empty. when its plugged in it reads correct fuel level, with the key off on ONE occasin today, with the engine harness unplugged, and the key off, the fattest wire to the fuel pump unit carried some 3 volts. when the key was turned on, it went to 0 volts. when the harness was plugged back in on the motor, the fuel pump had 0 volts with key on or off all the while, the car does not run since this problem occurred

update: accessories(heter fan, wipers, head lights) work with the key off when the harness is plugged in. fuel pump does not come on. the accessories work like normal with the key on and turn off with thekey when the harness is unplugged when the harness is un plugged the fuel pump rund continuouslyy regardless of key position even when off last nigt he disconnected the neg batt cable for the night. the next morning he connected it, and no ambient lights on the dash. turned the key to RUN, and back to off, and the dash lights are on when the harness is unplugged the check engine light stays on continuously with the key off. when key is in run pos airbag light comes on like normal. with harness plugged in in the check engine light is off with key off. but oil pressure light and charge indicator are on with the key off when the key is turned to the run pos, the airbag and the check engine light do not come on(with engine harness plugged in) the only accessory that works normall regardless of the harness is the stereo. ironically, the stereo harness is the only thing that has been touched electrically(cd player install) when the key is off, and the engine harness is plugged in, it sounds like the main ign relay is turning on. remember this information is taken over the phone by my buddy who has no 2nd hand to help

also, would anyone know which fuse is fir what. my buddy does not have the fuse panel cover for the fuses. the fuses in the tables are listed from top left to right across, then the next row, then the next row. knowing what fuse is what would really help

aside from all the loyale dismay, the 2.2 legacy motor is probably the single most reliable motor subaru has ever built

yeah i took this information over the phone, 300 miles away i have no opportunity to look aththe car. he doenst have ready nternet access and ajunk chiltons book for reference. he is electrically adept but this is going to take him to school on trouble shooting. anyway the voltage numbers look as if something in the ign is cross shorted and things that should be live arent and vice versa. this happened the next day after completing the swap, and its a first year impreza, the motor bottom end is from a 91 legacy, but the alternator and intake is original to the impreza the one variable is things are different with the engine harness unplugged or plugged in, its weird the way it was described to me. nothing of the wiring harness has been changed its all iintact in its original stock form

there you are jim, i was wondering where you were, havent seen you on the board, well, i guess that explains it. check out the trashwagon website in my signature

if you swap to a carb to eliminate the turbo you will want a whole carb motor or maybe an spfi block, since the turbo motor has the lowest compression it will sure be a dog if you use the existing turbo shortblock is your reason for swapping the car for fuel economy? if you wanted to ditch the turbo put in an spfi block, use the turbo heads and intake, and convert it to mpfi non turbo but if you found a carb motor you could just swap it in, but it wont run right unless you do some custom electricals for the carb itself, such as the anti dieseling solenoid and such, or just put on a weber:brow: anyway, if you would consider a carb motor by putting together an accumulation of parts, use an spfi long block because that will eliminate egr passages you would otherwise eliminate, and gain compression too

everyone will tell you a tune up. but a combination of exhaust and ignition will get you going to start with