MilesFox

i have run them absent. no problems. just check the hoses back there periodically for cracking due to heat. may want to fashion something to shiield the axle boot on the under/frontside of the downpipe

finding the source of any water entry. if your rx is a 3door i would suspect the wing mounting as my rx is all rusted behind the license plate and underneath below the cargo box as a result of a hole rusted under the middle of the wing. my sedan was rusted on the driver rear wheel arch because a hole had rusted behind the trim on the side of the back window, causing water entry thus rusting the wheel arch

when i did xt seats into an ea82 i used gl10 tracks as they had the height adjust. i had to bent the teeth out for the forward adjust latches and narrow the cable across a little bit by re-benting it 1/4 inch where the end was the one side bolted right up but the other side i had to drill a hole and add a bolt with a spacer, no welding involved let me suggest those who want to do xt seats find some gl-10 seats at least for the driver side. if a 3door seat is found for the passenger side then you kan keep the flip forward feature of the passenger seat

when my diff fell out on the highway and i had to removi it off the side of the road, the doj was seized to the diff so i separated the doj end from the diff to remove the diff i go to the outer ends of the axles to do the same and they are CV JOINTS? anyway i put another 200 miles on the car with the axles dagling, mildly suspended horizontally across a sling of coat hanger, untill i chopped them off with an angle grinder. what a waste of axlesa but i had to do it(seized stubs and pins) anyway these axles were from an 87 gl wagon, the carbureted 4wd 5spd version

funny thing, i was going to say a pontiac firebird wing, as it fits perfectly on the back of a sedan, i wonder if its the same part between firebird and fiero? as far as an rx, a 3door for that matter as long as it clears the wiper arm you cold get away with it. so long as there is enough of the gate after the rear window to mount it

youmay be better off finding a junkyard unit as far as price goes

first things first make sure the vacuum lines are intact. if the heater blows only out the dash vent then there is your problem right there. if the heater does check out, listen for a click and a PSHHH when you press the button. under the hood in the corner behind the driver side strut there are 2 little black solenoids with green fittings, and 2 lines from it to the side of the tranny. this is what actuates the 4wd. have a buddy hit the button and listen for a click. if there is no click present apply 12 volts to the solenoid and listen for a click. if it clicks suspect the wiring to it. if it doesnt click suspect the solenoid to be shot(not likely) also if the solenoid is working check thew side of the tranny, the diaphragm has a rod out the back of it make sure this is moving. if the solenoids are clicking and the diaphragm is not actuating then the vac line to it is bad or there is a hole in the diaphragm this rod on the side of the tranny is the 4wd. if nothing works you can actuate the 4wd by manually manupulating this rod. the way it works with the vac is vacuum is applied to put it in 4wd, and vacuum is applied from the other side to disengage 4wd if you can manipulate this lever by hand then you should see the 4wd lite. if no lite insoect the plugs on the tranny, or the bulb i the dash hope this is enough information to narrow it down hollar back! oh, i forgot, the motor has to be running for the 4wd to work!

maybe your hesitation is throttle position sensor related, as its common and also present in my buddy's rx motor in the gl-10 TRASHWAGON6. the tps is pretty much a fariable resistor with an idle switch and a WOT switch on eaither end of it

suppose the rat was the gremlin in the pacer. tim hansen has a pacer its super clean and yes, yellow shag

if all the heater selectors only blow out of the dash vents inspect the vacuum line from the cansister on the firewall to the intake and make sure it hasnt come loose. this vacuum supplies both the heater controls and the 4wd mechanism. check all the plastic lines along the firewall too. its even possible a mouse has eaten through a line as it has been reported once before with the same problem

the green wire will be hot all the time for memory the suabr has a common ground speaker, so on the aftermarket radio you will hook up the +left front, the+left rear, and only one of the grounds from the radio will be used, so the left sude front and back share the same ground, the right front and back share the same ground so you will be using the front left- and the front right-, the other rear - wires will not be used

looks ej related to me, with the pich bar mount and the new style electrical fittings

what i like to do is thread them in by hand with a screwdriver, then about 1/8 to 1.4 turn with a 1/4" drive socket another trick i prefer to use is a cordless drill with a clutch, one that clicks at a certain torqie. with my cordless, 18v harbor freight model, the full torque of the drill is just perfect for the oil pan bolts also when snugged by nad, it would be a good idea to re-snug them after about 10,000 miles or so a lot of the leaky oil pans i see just a hand re-tightening fixes right up, being as the gasket will harden and shrink over time

make it look like my car. satin black on the roof and trunk, white on the back, wheel arches down. big 7 on the hood! although i should have made the white on the hood come down to the edge like stripes but now the car wears a bra

as far as a legacy goes swing the compressor out of the way as well. but on the legacy you can unbolt the ompressor itself from the bracket, if you chose

lexan should be break in proof imagine a thief's frustration!

take the battery out to have room. instead of unbolting the compressir from the bracket, unbolt the bracket and compressor form the motor as an assembly remove the alternator and swing it out the way. under the alternator there is a 12mm bolt thru to the motor. on the back of the bracket there is a 14mm bolt thru to the intake under the bracket, on the far left, loosen the bolt but it doesnt have to come out. remove the belt pulley by removbing bot the 12mm bolt and the long hex part. thread the hex part back in on its stud once you pull the pulley off. behind the pulley is a long 14mm hex bolt, remove it. after all this the whole unit will swing out of the way to pull the motor

i have experienced this phanotom beep, i was like "Whoa, never heard that before" i believe its a speed warning as part of the trip computer on the radio console. i never did figure out all the functions of the trip computer as my display never worked. but anything its trip computer related

check the tightness of the axle nuts in back. they should be around 145 lb/ft, or snug then 1/4 turn the washers play an important role. there are a cone washer, then a flat washer, then the nut the flat washer is actually slightly curved, the curved side faces out so it clamps down on the outer side of the cone washer maybe this is why you cant replicate the sound on jackstands as the car would have to see the weight of the vehicle to make this noise also if the torque checks out suspect the wheel bearings if the bearing is bad and the wheel sits off camber because of that the rotor will hit against the caliper bracket, same applies for the front wheels

you know what i was reading another post in reference to this and suppose the clutch cable needs tightened(wont shift unless the engine is off) i say this because we picked up a wagon in iowa out of a field, would not shift unless the motor was off. so i looked and saw the clutch cable was loose. i tightene it up and the car towed another car around the farm and then we drove it another 2000 miles on the hot rod power tour. all like the next day. might i say check out the clutch cqable fittings against the fork befpre hauling it into the shop

my car does the same thing, the master switch will roll down the back windows but not up. the rears are fine with the rear switches. i suspect my master switch needs cleaned replaced as far as the way the system works, if any of the switches are unplugged from their harness none of the windows will work

for such a rear hand brake to work you would have to slam the brake whele you pull your lever and let off the brake, the lever holding it to the rear. basically you will have to introduce some sort of brake pressure first then the lever will hold it off tho the rear, so any maneuvers would have to train yourself to do

anaerobic means it will cure without the presence of air. just like bacteria in the ocean vents are anaerobic as they dont need oxygen. just like when you work out too hard you get the "burn" that is anaerobic metabolism going on more so than the oxygen in the body can keep up to

i ususlly loosen or tighten the bolts while the belt is still installed. if tis a broken belt i will install it to loosen the bolts(ea82's)

how many miles are on it. i foind with used cars the ones with higer mileage have seen their work done while ones with lower mileage will be needing work may as well have the work done as the car is now needing the work for the first time. do the clutch first as it will be the most expensive or most important, then brakes, then clutch. or do brakes first then clutch anyway how do you know if you trade it in if the car you get will be needing all that work too? stick to the subaru