MilesFox

goodyear gatorback belts are good too, i have had good reults withthem, found at auto zone.

ign or ecu fuse?

if you find odd compression readings across the cylinders please check the timing belt alignment before you rule the engine as bad or with a blown head gasket. how is the temp gauge when driving?

yo midwst, i am a traveling subaru maechanic i should be attending the iowa II meet this year, so should you be there i could take alook at your car and give you my opinions, or if you dont make it to the meet i can swing by. should you have any work lined up for the car i would be happy to help. my profile says im from indian but now i live in mulkwaukee, wisconsin, i was just out towards ames iowa to pick up subarus, andif you need any parts i may be able to find some for you. i also have a 92 loyal i just picked up with a broken timing belt. put a belt on it and now she runs good. im still working on getting the title so if there happens to be no title for this car it will be a source of parts. the car is a 2wd automatic and i lucked out it runs pretty good, 123,000 miles what i would recommend to you is double check the timing belts, make sure they are properly aligned. i have seen subarus with the timing belts aligned to the wrong marks, but they would run although horribly. maybe its possible the timing belts were serviced and installed wrong! you can remove the outer timing belt covers to inspect the belt alignment, and follow the instructions per the usrm article here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24 if you have any technical questions regarding your car or any work you do to it give me a hollar milesfox@yahoo.com i will be happy to help!!

also towing it on all four wheels will be fine. as long as the wheels are moving at the same speed, or not moving at the same speed. just so long there is no difference between the front or rear axle across the center diff nice thing about subarus is the rear half of the driveshaft can come apart without the yoke coming away from the tranny and spewing fluid. Hey! i just came to the realization this is why the driuveshaft is 2 pieces? because there is no up/dpwn/sideways travel in the driveshaft. subaru is smart.

a legacy radiator will be too tall and wont fit without doing some cutting, that and the fittings for the hoses are larger than the ea82 by the way will you be going to the iowa meet this year in august? i should be there so long as tim can make it too. we will be bringing a trashwagon replica

if its lifter noise you have try running a quart of ATF in the oil for about 100 miles or so before your next oil change. i just put a litte but in my oil and the noise quieted considerably from the time i put it in at wal mart and the time i got home. i plan on changing the oil inthis car considering i just picked it up for 50 bucks if you continue to have problems maybe you can change the oil pump seal, per my response in your other posts about removing the timing belt covers off. anyway if you want to consider doing any preventative maintenance might as well do it all at once since its just as much to do one thing or all of it check the usrm link at the top of the page and there you will find articles about the lifter tick and timing belts, oil pump seal and water pump i wrote some of the articles but the pics are down because my server is down, so if you have an questiuons regarding the articles i posted i can send you pictures in the email or put up a .zip file for download

pop off the rubber plug oon the bellhousing where you would view the timing marks. there are 4 bolts that hold the torque converter to the flexplate, 12mm heads

if i was you with the same car i would drive it as it is, with the mind to replace anything as it gives trouble. if anything i would put a water pump and timing belts on(age factor, and its the same work to do eaither) then keep an eye on the temp gauge, should you notice the car rides a little hot over time you can consider a radiator, a bad radiator is something that develops over time rather than something that goes out right away timing belt would be the most important, as its really the only thing that will leave you stranded off the side of the road. and do the woater pump in the same operation, here is a suggestion that i will make, if you get that farinto the motor go ahead and remove allthe plastic belt covers for ease of future maintenance, that way if a seal leaks or you replace an oil pump seal in the future, its all east yo get to and it saves you a loto fo work such as removing the crank pulley or ac compressor. also if you do break a belt on the side of the road, you can fix it in 10 minutes with 2 tools. put the new belts on and keep the old ones in the thrunk as get me home spares. my 2 cants i run open belts on all my cars, and on cars i do work for for other people if they chose the option. i have never had a reliablity issue with exposed belts, and many others have adopted the idea here as well plus without the covers any oil leakage will drip away rather than get thrown around on the belts wait till winter comes and you will be glad you picked up this car!

suppose you have tropuble finding a clutch listed for an 88 rx, any 85-94 ea82 4wd 5spd clutch will work as they are the same for part time dual range, single range, and full time transmissions. ny 85-95 dl, gl, gl-10 rx, xt, xt6 and loyale. as long as its 4wd 2wd disc wont work

not only can you fit in the ea82 5spd, you can fit an ea82 motor the same

4wd will bolt right in. as long as you have all the parts. i wonderif the rear suspension tube will have4 the mount for a diff? in the states brats came as 4wd only and only one year for an automatic, up until 87 is yours fwd 5spd or automatic?

i would suspect the throttle position sensor, its a variable risestor that can get dirty and has an idle and WOT position. tou can clock it one way or the other, ot if you are careful you can take it apart and clean it. its located on the siode of the throttle body

hey its a good idea. i run spfi block on my carb plus the heads on the spfi are absent of the egr ports on the side of the exhaust port, makes for easy elimination of all that tubing junk withou making block off plates if you had the harness you can wire the car for spfi while you drive on the carb, then when its all done swap the intake and instant SPFI!

make sure you have the same size tires all the way around, and proper air pressure to make sure your at works properly check the front gear oil, it has a separate dip stick under the spare tire on top of the tranny. a lot of people dont know this is there and it goes dry resulting in diff failutes or worn governor shaft, broken speedos, etc also those who do find it put ATF in ther instead of gear lube like the rear diff would take so previous owners should be more dreaded than torque bind

to remove the cam pulley on the driver side. behind the pulley there is a retainer that holds the cam in place and houses the seal. check to see if the bolts are stripped out i saw a motor theat mysteriously jumped a notch on the disty, i found this cam retainer's bolts were stripped out, causing the cam to walk and jumping the disty, breaking off a tooth on the gear of the cam. i had to replace the cam tower and cam drom a spare motor just something to look for, my biggest pet peeve is working on a soob after some jack stick hillbilly screwed it up and have to restore it back to subaru order.

its not in "false neutral " is it. i cnanged an axle and the car wouldnt go, i was about thetear into the clutch until i realized i was parked on an embankement, looked underneath and it bum ped the fwd lever between hi and lo

it wouldnt be pingign would it, inder load? does the sound sound anything like a diesel motor or marbles rattling in a can?

sometimes i find it easier to take the starter out to have more rom to get to the bottom bellhousing bolt on the drivers side. in extreme cases i'll pull the distributor the power steering pump i just disconnect the lines, the low pressure rubber line i'll hang a pop can on it to save it from making a mess i tie my chain to the power steering pump bracket, and the pitch bar mount on back, using the pitch bar's thru bolt to take out the motor or put it back in, jack the dranny by the front diff untul th emotor raises up and aboce the crossmember, so its mount studs come out of theit holes there are a dowel on each side of the motor, you can tap a wide flat screwdriver down in between the bellhousing to work these loose good luck and have fun! might i suggest removing the plastic timing belt covers, run the belts open so if you ever have to change a belt, water pump, oil pump, or seal, it saves you from all that work. just leave the plastic part behind the idler pulley as that is the only place the belt is exposed from behind if you question the reliability of open belts there is plenty of testemonial about them doing good, just ask somebody

on the contrary a 200 dollar car can see many 10's of thousands of miles should you know what ot expect from it and take care of anything before it comes a problem, for little $

how about considering route us2 it take you north across montana, its the flattest run from say idaho area, then jog wherever from about half way across ND

yeah i have been trying to get her out of her ford pile for some time, after the first one had abad radiator and the next one having a bad water pump, might as well get out of it while it still runs. hey the bumper to the last ford is behind the carbola if u still need it:rolleyes:

the one on the right looks like an ea82 piston, if the other one is originally ea81. the one on the right looks like ea82's that i know of

probably their analysis is based on cost or frequency of maintenance bear in mind an older subaru is an enthusiasts car, are best suited for the kind of people who like to work on and maintan their own vehicle things like changing timing belts every 60 thousand miles and torn axle bots will give it a bad rating. things like that can be big$$$ if taking it into a shop to do, but super cheap to do yourself!!! aside from the attention to maintenance the subaru is a very well built car and will last for hundreds of thousands of miles. dont let the consumer reports scare you off, this is where its at on this here message board.

also keep the same size tires all the way around so everything tuns at the same rate if you are in something slippery and peelong out, dont engage 4wd while peeling out, such as the front wheels spinning and the rears not, or you will get a nasty grind when engaging. rather let the wheels come to a stop if this is the case before engaging however, in normal driving or when you are not obviously peeliong out you can engage 4wd as you are driving normally is this car u have a 5spd or an automatic. pushbutton or lever?