MilesFox

the xt seats will sit lower in the lowest position but you can still raise it! i sit with the lowest position but i may raise it up and down on long trips if my butt goes numb but raised up you should still sit as high as you were int eh gl 10 seat one thing i dont like about my xt seat is that it doesnt sit upright all the way for me, im tall but i dont like to have to lean forward for the shifter and radio, if it went one more notch forward i would be happy. but i have4 lumbar to make for it but the xt seats will let yoiu ride with the gangster lean so if you prefer all i can say is give it a shot and adjust your seat as usual and you will find a comfortable position

sounds like it will work. keep it at stock boost levels, the compression will get you off the line and the turbo willhelp it out. maybe you can have some custom cams ground or fins stock ea82 turbo cams. as far as the cams go you shouldn have any problems, just what i mean by blowing past the valves is the m/s cam has more overlap which is good for scavenging, and the turbos have lest overlap because boost does the act of scavenging so to speak as far as moving air thru the engine where are you running your coolant into the intake at? may i suggest the heater hose or bypass pipe as you will want volume of water flowing to keep things cool

did the timing belt break on you or did you ge the car with a bad belt? was the distributor removed at all during the repair. sippose the distributor pigtail is not connected?

what was the problem you were having before? describe the 30 min warm up vs cold as far as driving it goes.do you mean 30 min for the temp to reach operating temp? is there a thermostat present?

these cars do ok towing i give credit to their gearing.... i have been pulling tow duty with my 88 gl sedan spfi fwd 3at to 5spd 4wd d/r conversion. in fact i just picked up a loyale today, i dont have room fo it so im leaving ot on the dolly till i get it running, so i;ll be towing whil running my local errands... the car doesnt notice an empty dolly i towed my rx 3oo miles on the interstate from fort wayne, in to milwaukee wisconsin. until i got to fort wayne to begin with i towed the dolly from milwaukee to springfield ill to indianapolis to fort wayne. rx=2700 lbs + 400 lb dolly + all my stuff + parts to 3 motors, probably a good 3500 lbs behind me with a bolt on hitch from an ea81 towing is fun i wouldnt doubt towing again some 3 or 4 hundred miles, i can do 5th gear and 55-56 on the hiway, and get 300 miles out of the same tank of gas

suppose ifg i did this before augist could you pick it up from the iowa meet?

i mean mpfi non turbo and mpfi turbo ecu is the same. 85-86 and 87 later are different though, between years and not aspiration (mechanical vs optical ignition) also between ea81 turbos the ecu should be campatible with ea82 mpfi turbo or non for 85-86. oneof my projects calls for an mofi non turbo from an 87 xt with an 85 turbo intake in an 83 turbo wagon with 9.5 compression non turbo block and heads, normally aspirated

get a cherry bomb, thruish, glasspack, the tubular muffler you may be referring to as a "hot dog" you will like it!

get a breaker bar and butt it agains the driver side of the fender. take off the cooil wire. bump the starter and that will towque it loose. driver side i mean left hand drive us models. if you are right hand drive, it would be the passenger side

85-90 is appropriate for 4 swason climate. the weigh would be more for your temperature range. what to look fo is "gl-5 or equivalent" as it comes in various weights

you could be dwawing coolant in from the intake gasket. since there is a coolant passage there, this couls allow coolant to be sucked in to one cylinder bank while still showing strong compression

oh dont forget that im in milwaukee wisconsin instead of butler anymore, some 300 miles closer to you guys!

take out the pitch bar or loosen the bolt and let the assembly pitch back. you can shove a block of wood between the motor and the top of the raduator bracket between the p/s reseroir to keep the motor from falling forward once its out. i also find it easier to leave the shifter connected to the tranny when pulling it or installing it, just take out the bolt between the shift lever itself and its actuator have fun

maybe it broke a timing belt. worst case it needs a timing belt anyway the car is a rere find with the full time 4wd and the lsd. you better grab it you cant go wrong if you keep it , sell it, or part it, because with that driveline package you are sitting on a piotential gold mine. as long as the seller doesnt realize what he's got

not so much that the amplifier is going bad but .050 will stress it and make it fail till it sots a while. i spent the night at a gas station 45 miles fom home. swapped out hte accel for the stock coil and mad e it home. changed the disty and the ar still ran ill but runs. anyway the gap may be too much without a beefier ignitor try .045 and see if that helps

why not go get a head gasket? are the timing belts on properly?

its like the time my wheel fell off an punctured from the wheel well rust. no jack and no spare, 45 miles fom home. so i waved a guy down and borrowed his jack. put on the flat tire. drove home needless to say i has an 11 inch rim by the time i got there, the tire disintegrated 10 miles out the guys on the board threwa fit when they read that one:grin:

on the contrary i think the xt seats are more comfortable as the gl10 seate are too fluffy for my bony A. i guess its a matter of preference.

run a wire from the battery to the + terminal on the coil and see if it runs. if so, the components are good but you are not getting power from somewhere between the fuse and the key or the key and the coil. if the jumper wire works you can connect it to a toggle switch thus allowing you to drive the car till you fix the real problem

the xt6 seats sit lower. good for being tall, you sit down in the car more like an ea81. the reason they sit lower is because the lower roof in the xt the xt6 still has the height adjust. in fact, to swap in the xt seats you will have to swap the tracks. good thing, the tracks coming from the gl-10 you can keep the height adjust it takes a bit of mild modification... to swap the tracks you will need a allen head or a #3 phillips or both to take the tracks off the bottom. also you will have to separate the inge for thw adjust part. since the rail is linger on one side you will have to drill a hole and add a bolt and a spacer, a lugnut or something similar will work for a spacer the slide forward part, the teeth for the track will have to be bent out slightly so they release. the cable across the tracks for the teeth on the other side will have to be re-bent to take some slack out, as the one you will be using is slightly too long sounds kinda complicated but once you have them apart you will see what im referring to right easily

drop the differential hanger mounts, the big round mount with the 19mm nut on each side. drop both sides so you can swing the diff left to right and this will give you room to move. if you need more room take out the bolt on the lower half of the shock where it connects to the trailing arm

its the same principal as vacuum, when the car is idling it has high vacuum because the throttle is closed. when open, the vacuum drops but yo have volume of flow. so this analogy for the fuel system, you have the pressure when the fuel is stopped up by the carb's float valve, and when the pressure drops, that is because its flowing into the carb and thru the motor its like when you put your finger on the end of a garden hose. plug it up and water shoots out fast but not that much. let go and it pours out freely. wit it plugged and the water coming out faster it may seem to be more water but its coming from the same hose and faucet, so its really not

you can make a nice clean install of a pushbutton on the knockout plates in the dash. here's a picture: the car is an 88 and the bezel is from an 86. that is why it says fan but actuallt nothing goes there. on the 88 its a square cover if you pop it off theres a hole to use. there is also a knockout where the blue switch is and on the other side of the wheel as well, all of these make for nice clean switch or button installs, should you have to resort to a pushbutton

looks like 3 tanks of gas should do, let me find a 3 day period and im game. check your email

helicoil it or just cram it in however, as a last resort before replacing the head. if it threads in or evern cross threads, it will still do so long as you dont have to take it out anytime soon...... i say this as a last ditch try if you determine you may have to replace the head, or take it off for that matter. if you funck up the threads a helicoil will fix it anyway. take out one of the other plugs and try it to ssee if it threads so you dont buy a new plug for nothing