MilesFox

*mods please stick* i see there have been a lot of references to the timing belt article, but im sorry to see the pics are down because the server is down for maintenance i have made a zip file of the article for download as it appears on my website you can download the extraction utility from www.winzip.com i can make more packages for the other articles upon request timingbelt.zip

just think of a subar as a bicycle with 4 wheels to get you started. belts instead of chains. if a bike breaks down you can still push it home. if a subar breaks doen you can still drive it home

hey god deal glad you took care of it one way or the other. miracle the parts store had the cagble in stock!

and what if i DID show up, in a trashwagon for that matter. yeah you

yo if i was there an hour earlier i would have had it all on tape. got the story though "dont turn around, put yourt hands on the hood" "WHAT THE HELL!!!!" comning soon to a subaru alliance movie near you

well, lets suppose that someone before you had taken off all the plastic crap, it would only requere a 7/8" offset wrench and a 12mm socket to do the timing belts! easy stuff once you get your hands dirty. i always say that if you ever wanted to learn how to work on a car, a subaru is a good car to learn on. you are on this message board, right!?

a #3 phillips will fit thru the holes on the crossmember, or you can stick a 1/4" extension thro the crossmember holes and then the socket i find that a cordless drill is the right amount of torque to loosen, tighten these bolts. whats nice about them is you can start them with a screwdriver and then snug them down with a 1/4" dr. ratchet or cordless drill be careful not to over tighten the bolts as it will punch the gasket in half. also i recommend some gasket shellac such as hi-tack or indian head. torque the pan down from the corners first and work towards the middle of the sides

you will get the crank angle sensor code if the engine is not running, also the starter switch in some cases double check the timing belt alignment. sorry the pics are down in the article as the server is down for maintenance. i can provise pictures over the email if you want to see them milesfox@yahoo.com the 7 flashes would be a model designation code. the motor you hear running is the fuel pump. the green clips are to cycle the fuel pump and to set the static timing at the distributor(simulates plugging the vacuum advance for a mechanical disty) the black or white clips are for retrieving the engine codes themselves

i wonder if the engine temp sensor is bad, not the one for the dash gauge, but the one for the ecu. try the code procedure per the article in the USRM-repair and mod > miscellaneous

make sure the belts are installed properly. you cant line them up with o deg and both dots up, this is not the way to do it! line up the 3 individual marks on the flywheel to the center mark. install the driver side belt with the dot up once the driver side belt is installed, rotate the crank a full 360 degrees so the mark on the flywheel re-alighns and the cam pulley dot is facing down. now install the passenger side belt with the dot up. rotate the crank and check your aignments now you can line up the odeg mark for the distributor, the dot on the passenger cam pulleyy will be pointing toward the corner of the cam cover, just below the word SUBARU

kinf of pull in and out on them, they will lwt go. suction from the oil behind them kind of holds them in. you can wrap the end of the lifter with a rag and tug on it with pliers. also use some kind of starting fluid or brake/carb cleaner and spray it into the oil gallerys that feed the lifters from behind

i use a dremel with the flex extension, i will use one of the metal blade type bits to get my shape, and follow thru wuth stones. be careful as stones will clog up, so use light to moderate pressure and a medium rpm under load. finish up with the sanding drum i like to use the cylindrical stones for most of the work and the cone stones for tighter splaces. when selecting stones read the details on the back of the package to pick the best one for aluminum, as the stones come in different textures and colors depending on their intended application

if youre feeling confident you can drive the car with no cable. its a bit tricky but can be done. tim's trashwagon replica snapped the cable and i drove it back to the house freeway driving is the easiest as there is no shofting involved anyway you will have to start the car in gear to get going, wind the gear out moderately and pull into neutral and light pressure on the next gear, once the rpm idles down and matches the next gear's rpm it will go in. this is best if you wind the gears up to downshift you will want to be off the gas, pull out of gear, and rev the motor up a good pull, let off the gas and put pressurte on the next gear down, once again she will go in once the rpm matches the speed. put in neutral when stopping and turn off the car. start over if you manage to downshif into 1st and can slow down with enough gap ahead of you you can keep it crawling till the light tiurns gree so you dont have to stop, so long as traffic doesnt fill the gap. its not recommended for "daily driving" but it will get you off the side of the road or even get you home. try parallel parking in this manner, it can be done, but only if youre comfortable with the notion.

sorry about the pics being down in the article, as the server is down for maintenance. email me for the pics. milesfox@yahoo.com

install a pushbutton! not the heavy duty starter switch, but the generic "horn switch" from auto zone or the like, run from hot to the switch to the starter solenoid. my car has a little small pushbutton mounted on the bezel, being a 2wd at to 4wd 5spd conversion. it also has a loose wirte under the hood for starting it there as well

hey im all open at this point so the sooner the better, before i find a job and have to commit to it. my insurance is good till the rest of the month but i need to come up with 75 bucks by the 23rd to continue the next month. i got a line on some local work here that may work out for that situation

since the nut came off to bein with, maybe you are missing a washer(s) there shoule be the nut, and begind it a flat washer with a beveled edge, and a conical split washer. make sure all these washers are present. also the flat washer is slightly convex, make sure the convex side is out. this washer is what torques against the cone washer and keeps it all tight.

stay away from the AT as it is a belt drive like that of moped or snowmobile, once it goed bad youre done for. unless you get it as an at withthe mind of looking for a 5spd

yo i have found and downloaded all the photo bucket pics from the meet. i would like, if possible, any other pictures that were taken, especially at the carwash so i can put them on the website. i will be working on the website now that i have the computer set up and cable modem access, also i will be working on the subaru alliance video. tim borrowed a mac from the dude in LA so its very possible the alliance video can be on DVD instead of VHS

yo folks, here i am in milwaukee agian. so far i got 2 potential subarus to fis and a pending application at harbor freight and maybe an interview at radio shack come monday.... yeah the power tour was fun. on my way to milwaukee i managed to get 457 miles out of the sedan before i ran out of gas, could have got 475 maybe if i didnt go downtown chicago. anyway i left from columbus oh so that is pretty good for the same tank of gas i have never been to much of a car show so it was all out going to the power tour. i got a lot of" i havent seen one of these in a while, i used to have a BRAT" in response to the subaru. indeed we were the only subarus on the power tour, i did see a wrx but i think it was part of the vendor setup, and a legacy gt that was part of another vendor setup. we got the replica wagon from iowa thursday, painted it friday, finished the paint saturday morning, peeled tape and hit the power tour. we put on the mirrors and grille and trim at the venue once we got there. not bad for a car resurrected from a farmers field in iowa, to drive to milwaukee 4oo miles and then round the power tour. so fat all it needed was a little bit of oil and lots of gas. trouble free otherwise considering it has a sharp metallic noise coming fom the motor. neds valve lash adj i say, the guy who sld it to us said he drove it like this for 50,000 miles we had a tv and vcr under the hood with the ac inverter, and posters with pics of the original trashwagon 5 from the wcss5 meet on display with the replica at indianapolis. i had the sedan all cleaned up with posters of pics from the alliance meet, all the mud we were the FIRST ones there to indy, considering we drove all night from springfield as to not be late to indy. all the while im towing this tow dolly since milwaukee, and am averaging fairly good for fuel economy. with the dolly i still made my 360 mile mark, which averages out to about 27 mpg i got my car in on the drag race, the tech inspection was "seatbelts, if you have a convertible a helmet, and anything else i dont feel like f*'n with" for safety we had to wear long pants and have the windows up. being a bracket race and never racing before i figured i would run 20 flat. well i ran 20.43, i was late on the green light but launched in 4-lo, thru 3rd, shift into 2 hi tho carry the rest of 3rd and hit 4th before the finish line. all with 2 5 gal gas cans in the back, oops, weight or safety? anyway here is my time: r/t .657 60 2.546 330 7.968 1.8 12.736 mph 51.19 1000 16.886 1/4 20.435 mph62.78 from indy we went to my place in fort wayne, stayed the night, and picked up the rx in the morning. the sedan towed pretty good with the rx, i would take off in lo 1st and get going and shift to hi 1st and drive as usual. i ran an average temp of 230 with the heat on. half way across i picked some mud out of my radiator and such. then traffic jams in chicago man i HATE driving thru chicago since there is absolutely no way around it without going way south and west or without a big lake in the way. anyway i managed to make it to milwaukee on the same gas in tow, 300 miles to the same tank. after arriving to milwaukee and unhitched the sedan still runs 230, so i will blame the thermostat and not the towing for the temp being so high. she did not overheat, nor puke for that mayyer, but the sedan seemed to have been running warmewr and warmer as the miles went by. i have put 10,000 miles on this car in the past 3 months since i put it together with whatever thermostat was in the intake i used form a 91 loyale. time for a new one, and brakes too since they feel chunky. anyway im dwn for the east coast jog sometime beforew my next court date aug 1st, so long as i can come up with the gas to get out there first

suppose the sender is different than the4 car it is in. for example, a car with a dummy lite that has a motor(and sender) from an analog dash will have the oil lite on all the time and it will go off with low oil pressure.

check the fuse. my dim headlight got me arrested. after pulling relays and such i found the right fuse was missing. there is a fuse for each light at the fuse panel, check them first

one thing about this car is if you swap in a full time transmission with diff lock, the mechanism is the same for the pushbutton and the diff lock, so with a full time tranny swapped into this car the 4wd button will lock the diff.

also depending on the size of the lines, any aftermarket trans cooler can work, such as from a jc whitney catalog or the like, for domestic hot rods and such, 3/8" lines