MilesFox

i have a secret. fwd imprezas with 5spd are 23 spline. the example i know of is a 93 fwd 5spd ej18. this was discovered when legacy parts were unstalled up front, and the axle was too big for the stub also a long time ago i remember the leftover clutch from this same car got mixid in with ea82 fwd 5spd, which is also the same. think of it as an ea82 fwd 5spd with an ej bellhousing

yes if you do that and leave the pp bolts loose enought he clutch disc will slide around it will center itself as the motor goes on, the tighten the bolts thru the starter hole. i learned this tricl off the bard several versions ago another thing i found to work especially with gen 1 subarus is to use a 3/8 ratchet extension, its near a perfect fit in the pilpt hole, and wrap electrical tape around it to fit in the clutch dsc hole, this doesnt work bad at all i did it twice in a row fixing soobs for hire

may6be the distributor itself could be bad? i put my car together and got no fuel or spark, put on a different disty and blam she runs still 10000 miles later

i sencond the stripped teeth notion. i run open belts, no covers that is. my car quit. i get under the hood and see both belts are still there. turn the key and no start. perplexes me for a monment. then i jump the solenoid from under the hood so i can watch the belts. crank pully spins but drivers belt just sat there. stripped teeth on the belt around the crank sproket check to see if the rotor turns this is a more reliable method than feeling thru access plugs. those plugs are for adjustment of the tensioner, by design and the fact that they are there

with all the bad sentiment maybe this guy would just rather stay away from the whole mess. i dont know anything about it but maybe something came up where he couldnt follow thru for some reason out of his control, and now everyone jumps his case i dont know anything about this, other than what its like to be hated on. i dont blame the guy if thats the case. my 2 cents

when you install the disty you will want t onstall it at the o mark. to guess the timing without a light the disty sshould be 3/4 turned to the right within the range of its adj. slot. a lot of times you can see a shiny spot where thehead of the bolt was at before when the flywheel mark is showing o deg, the passenger cam pulley will have the dot lined up with the top ridge of the flat part of the valve cover, just below the word SUBARU. the driver side dot will be rougly 4:30 o clock

probably a blown head gasket instead of a cracked head. if soobs are rare around your parts i say get it. i juyst got a loyale for 50 bucks with abad timing belt. cost me 7 bucks to fix it. i can sell it for 600 easy if i came across a RUST FREE soob in any shape i would be all over it like white on rice on a paper plate in a snowstorm on the hood of a subaru rx

you must use the green connector to accurately time the distributor. yes 20 deg btdc. 86 spfi the test connectors are under the dash. 87 and later models the connetors are under the hood turbo models are under the dash xt models the connectors are under the rear deck you will want to leave the connectors unplugged any other time and during normal driving

it will only be loud when you rev it. it will idle quietly. if thats the case keep the tailpipe the same diameter as the 'bomb. go with the 2 inch and the long one

get the cherry bomb! i assume you are putting it in place of the stock muffler if you were going with all new y-back exhaust, i would say put the 'bomb at the y flange and 2 inch back if going in the stock location get a 2 or 2 1/4 diameter, and put a 2 1/2 pipe for a tail pipe, it will sound super mean

ok since you have a backfire i will say the spark plug wires are out of order. #1 cylinder is the front on the thermostat side. 3 behind it, 2 is the front on the batteryside, 4 behind it #1 on the cap is the farthest back terminal to the right of the screw/clip. firing order is 1-3-2-4, counterclockwise i will bet you a dollar this is your problem. good luck

maybe you have the 85-86 ecu, this ecu runs with a mechanical disty that has 2 wires to the coil, and a harness that goes to the separate knock control unit. the disty you have and describe looks like the optical type, for 87 and up do you have the mass air flow sensor> is it a flapper5 or a hotwire? flapper for 85-86 and hotwire for 87+ between 85-86 and 87 up the intakes will be the same alkthough the plugs may be shaped differently. look on the bottom of theheads, if they are gen one and are original the motor will be 85-86. gen one has ea82 stamped on the bottom gen 2 heads will have ea82 with a line around it, 87 and 88 models gen 3 heads are 89 and up, ea82 has a box around it hope this helps

you are getting the crank angle code because you pulled the code when the car is not running. is your clicking at regular intervals? if the green plugs are connected this will cycle the fuel pump, the clicking you hear should be the fuel pump relay or is this click when you turn the key. have you tried jumping the starter solenoid? maybe your problem is a bad ignition switch, a common problem especially with automatics but if your problem arises from working on the car, double check and make surte you didnt leave something disconnected or knocked loose check to see if the coil wire is connected. also check to see if the starter solenoid is connected toes the car turn over but not fire or not turn over?

ok then if you have a hold button it must be the 4speed full time. there is a fat harness and a big black round plug connecting the tranny harness. the wire you wioll be looking for is the fattest 2 wires in this harness, you can test for voltage there to the starter circuit

10 w 40 or 15 w 40 oil, about 4.5 to 5 quarts. add the oil and filter. trart the car for a minute or so and re-check the oil once it circulates thru do you suppose the spark plug wires are mixed up? does the car backfire or kick back when trying to start it?

the last time i did a tranny i fremoved the pitch bar to take out hte tranny. then i installed it tilted farthest back and tightened it to install the tranny. once the tranny was bolted to the motor i loosened the pitch bar bolt and bolted up the tranny crossmember, then tightened the pitch bar last

the green connectors simulate the act of plugging the vac line to e machanical disty. this way when you set the initial timing it doesnt advance4 and move around on you, but stays still. the green connectors also cycle the fuel puym and its relay to check if its working while the car is not running timing for all 87 and later is 20 deg. carbs are 8 deg. 85-86 turbo is 25 deg

this part goes inside the distributor

i wonder if your problem lies elsewhere. could the fuel pump fuse be out. i say this over starting a car that had no fuses, the pump wpuld kick on when the key was turned, but without the fuse it wasnt reading the signal from the distrubitor to keep pumping start the car and for the minute that its running feel the fuel pump and verify its pumping, you will feel it vibrate. tghe fuel pump is located in front of the passenger rear tire under the car above a triangular mounting plate. be careful the mounting bolts may twist off, have the cable ties handy! if you have some help feel the pump when the key is turning and feel for it to stop. if it does stop, you can run a toggle to the pump from somewhere + on the fuse panel or wire it into the + terminal of the coil. this will keep it going until you find the problem, if its invilving the fuel pump circuit

the ej22 has one belt. you line the pulleys to matks on the belt itself. there is a hydraulic tensioner that must be squeezed down in a vise and a pin inserted until its installed. as far as the ej 20 i wouldnt know if its single cam or dual cam, but the ej22 is single cams. i have no experience with dual cam. maybe you will want to post in the new gen forum

maybe the temp sensor for the ecu is shot. this is what lets the car know when its at operating temp and meters the injector. for examole, i had this turbo car that would run fine when cold, but when it warmed up it ran like crap and if it stalled it would have to sit for a while before it would start first step you should inspect and clean the terminal for the temp sensor(its not the one for the gauge, the gauge sensor has one wire and a flat terminal)) the ecu temp sensor is located on the thermostat housing, it has a green plug and 2 wires. clean the contacts to it and se if that makes a difference. if not find one at the junk yard. usually the ones that are bad are from cars that have been overheated to the point it cooks them. a new one will set you bck some 80 bucks, so might as well grab a handful of them from a junkyard as the can be pocket items

the wiring will be different for the 4wd lite. you may be able to splice the d/r wiring into the right location for the 4wd lite, the lo lite will not be present, the lo switch is on the lever itself if you wish to install an indicator lite. you should be able to hook up the reverse lite but the plug ends may be different. have a schematic handy the one in the haynes manual will do yes you can go from 2wd into 4wd on the fly, you wont need the clutch for 2wd to 4 hi and back to 2wd if you are off the gas. but you will need to clutch to go into lo range. the same flywheel, clutch, tranny mount, and driveshaft will fit the same. since your car is non turbo the axles will fit the same as well also, the loyale being non turbo should have a 3.9 diff, may want to check to be sure, and if it does have 3.9 then it will also be compatible with the dual range

yeah but if mud gets behind trim rings at least it doesnt defeat their purpose.

let us know how things go, if nothing works we can try some other measurs involving hotwiring and toggle switches, so see if the part or the wiring is bad

look for the harness thet plugs all the rest of the wires. if its under the carpet just peel the carpet back and tug the wire, the plug is not too far in there the 2 fattest wires you can jump to bypass theneutral switch as if it were a 5spd conversion. and you are correct, the other wire is black and yellow this is for 3spd at's. 4spd at's you will have to find your wire at the tranny harness