MilesFox

200 bucks aint bad if you have in mind to fix it. the tranny can be shifted on the fly so no harm there probably broke due to old age click my signature and go to the service and repair page and find timing belt, water pump, and engine seal repair write-ups if you want to learn how to work on cars a subaru is perfect to start with good luck and have fun!

OIL PUMP SEALS! aeration of the oil because of the o-ring being sucked in. take the lifter back and exchange it for the oil pump seals

check the intake gasket on that side

"SUBARU SURVIVAL KIT" 1/4" drive toos: ratchet, extension, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm 3/8" drive tools: ratchet, 10mm, 12mm deep, 14mm, extension 1/2" drive tools breaker bar, 17mm, 19mm, 7/8" or 22mm 36mm, ratchet, extension wrenches: 8mm, 10mm, 12-14 combo, 17mm, 19mm phillips and flat head screwdrivers, vice grip and pliers, wire cutter Electrical: various bits of wire and connectors, bulbs and fuses, test lite or multi meter this will fix anytthing to alternators to axles for those of you with open timing belts a 12mm deep, ratchet, and 7/8 wrench is all you need! 14, 17, 19 and 36mm , 3/8" punch will fix an axle off the side of the road. use a long bar or pipe to push the lower control arm down to separate the ball joint the rest will allow you to remove a trailing arm or the diff for rear axles, or pull the motor should you have a friend around

check out these websites: TRASHWAGON.com Miles Fox's Suabru

you can get a tube of "3M windo-weld" urethane, it comes in a caulk tube you can squirt it into the spaced around the rubber insert in the metal parts of the mount. worked pretty good on my sedan. give it a good 12 hour stretch to set up before driving

a bad battery will draw too many amps and cuase the alternator to fail prematurely. get a new battery first and see if that cures your problem.

the speed sensor is there primarily for cruise control

the nut should have a cone washer and a flat washer. the cone washer centers into the hub and the flat washer holds the torque of the nut. the flat washer is very important becuse it is slightly convex, the convex side faces the nut the wheel will not come off because the caliper bracket will hold the rotor in place from moving outward. i would very well and highly suggest you find the proper subaru washers for the axle nut, or you will continue to have the same problem, or have the same problem withthe proper washer installed bakward

check the u-joints on the drivehaft. if that turns out to be the problem, any rear half of the driveshaft from auto or stick will fit the same, both u-joints are on the rear half

typical of rust i see. looks good outside and the underneath is falling apart. or you get a lot of surface rust and the framerails are SOLID just loke this loyale i got, looks worse than trashwagon but more solid than the sedan. i bought it to turn it around for profit but it drives much better than my other soobs. i think i'll keep it. my plans for it is to make a u-haul out of it

sometimes wiggling the air lines where they fit into thir connections will cue the problm if its due to loose o-rings. pb blaster claims to rejuvinate old o-rings. i would check the o-rings to start with

the front axles will interchange. all non turbo trannies have 23 splines turbo 5spds have 25 splines. for automatics, all 3spds are 23 spline, turbo or non, and the 4spd full time automatic is 25 spline(turbo and xt6) the only 25 spline non turbo tranny is the full time 5spd for the xt6 if you were to purchase new axles order them for a turbo 3spd automatic as they will have the same diameter as the 25 spline axles but will have the 23 splines. the doj cup will be interchangeable to turbo axles and xt6 axles such as to use xt6 suspensions with a dual range tranny for gear ratios, all non turbo 5spds are 3.9. 87 and up non turbo automatics are 3.9 as well, but 86 and earlier automatics are 3.7 and turbo autos are 3.7 ALL ea82 rear axles are the same and 23 spline wether it be turbo or non and xt6 as well the carb motor will work in the spfi configuration, the intake and distributor fit the same, but you will have to block off the egr ports on the cab heads and you will be stepping down from 9.5 compression to 9.0 as far as motors from ats and manuals the bolt pettern for the flywheel is the same so you can swap the flywheel to an auto's motor. but you will have to use the bolts original to the flywheel as the bolts for the flexplate of an at are shorter also the rear half of the driveshaft are interchangeable should a u-joint go bad everything else fits the same

it will also fit under the hood all the soobs i see either have 185/70 0r 175/70 i prefer the 185's myself

the stock subar height adjustable front and rear struts came on the 85 and 86 4wd wagons when ordering parts they should be listed for your car. even if you had a later year order for 85 and 86, as far as the parts listings will be concerned

i used molybendum disulfide (moly ep) ,you know, axle grease

interesting theory, tom. the outer spring and spring keeper were in a parts tray, the cam tower was still on the head, i dont know why anyone would try to remove a valve under the cam tower before removing it there are score marks on the inside of the cam tower housing the round part that retains the spring had a notch worn out of the outer circumfrence. the iner part where the tip of the valve stem comes through was wallowed out on one side, this must be the side that dropped a keeper now, the valve moved back and forth freely before another spring and keepers were installed. went right together now what you say about the lash adjuster is interesting. the part that holds the lash adjuster was missing and i used one from anothr adjuster that was stuck in its head off another motor would there be a difference in HLA's between years such ad 85-85 vs. 87-94? there was no excessive carbon build up. the valve seats were fine and the cracks between the valves were minimal the motor has 85,000 original miles something interesting i noticed is the bottom half of the circumfrene of the pstons were shiny suggesting water, and there was a water spot on the #1 cylinder but i would attribute this to weather and the car sitting. the head gasket looked fine and came off on one side and remained to the block in all its surface

yeah i need mirrors for the rx, maybe thay work on the 3door because of the rake of the a-pillar i do know for certain that the 3-door a pillar is more raked back than the standard wagon and sedan.

pull out the trailing arms take the diff/axle(and trailing arm if it doens t come off the axle) assemblyout of the car and there you will have room to swing the hammer. this assembly removed from the tube frame itself used a 3 lb hammer and whack, rotate, whack, rotate propane torch and pb blaster! use anti-sieze or re-assembly

ok we have this 87 carb'd gl wagon that came missing a valve spring. looks like a keeper fell out(?somehow) the cam tower was still on. this car came from someone who claimed it had a "broken timing chain and 2 bent valves" replaced the spring and keeper. the lash adjuster was found apart and put back together runs and drives and no compression on #1 cylinder take cam tower off and pull head. mock up head and cam tower and exhaust valve is slightly open on the #1 cylinder. note was taken the lash adjuster was taller than the other, because the cap was not on all the way, that was fixed and the head put back on still no compression on #1 cyl. what is the problem and how do you bend valves on subarus??? the valve seats closed when the head is by itself and no cam tower and rockers installed.

you can retrofit an ea82 turbo. you will have to make water cooling from the heater hoses and tweak the oil lines. you will need the downpipe with the ea82 turbo. the bottom of the turbo will bolt onto ea81 you will have to mix and match the right pcvs. get the inhtake boot with the turbo you could make that fit also ea82's will be more plentiful

you can swap in a map lite from a gl and put speakers in the rear door, the wiring will be there for gl accessories of any sort spfi as the same with other ea82's 87 and up are the same parts thru 94 check for rusted out rear trailing arms, as the onses i see worst are fwd, rusted apart ant the seams

you couuld fix this from inside the car. nice hefty hitch on the car. is this dual range 4wd? the shift cover will pop off and the knob unscrews. remove the screws to the rubber boot and there is your bushings.

one of the bolts for the water pump will be behind the cover. if you look on the replacement pump you will see where the timing cover threads into, that will give you an idea pf what's behind there you can get away with taking a chunk off the corner of the timing belt covetr to expose the bolt. to break the crank bolt loose use a pry bar and butt it against the driver side(u.s.) and crank the motor with the coil wire unplugged if you go through all the trouble you could take all the covers off http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

if you are speaking of an ea82 car, you can remove the rear half of the driveshaft until you find a replacement. both the front and rear u-joints are on the rear half of the driveshaft also, at and 5spd driveshafts are the same length for the rear half and are interchangeable if the u-joint on the rear half breaks, you can simply tie up the driveshaft (in 2wd only!!)till you replace it, or the rear diff falls out, whichever comes first