MilesFox

*(here is the link if you can put it in the appropriate section, or even make a new section for part number related material)* Subaru Parts Guide 1985-2002 2-door/mpv(brat and hatch), Loyale(ea82's) and XT. the scans do not include the new gen chapters, so tecnically these particular scans cover 1985-1994 http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/partsguide/

i have scans from an 85-90 parts guide. i scanned the ea81 and ea82/xt sections. i did not scan the new gen chapters. here is the link: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/partsguide/ i'll post it in USRM

110 mm water pump, it is the longer shaft with studs and the pullet slides over the studs. typical of spi with m a t s u s h i t a AC otherwise if the pulley fits on with 4 bolts its the 105 mm typical of turbos with htachi compressors do the cam seals and oil pump too if they leak

well just drive it with the axles dangling. yes, you can do that FF to 4:20

i would be all over it.

if this whole ordeal is over welding the diff, then why not just remove the rear diff cover and weld the gears with it on the car?

what you descrive with the oil gauge is normal. withthe sustained high rpm under load i would bet the oil pump seal sucked in on itself. generally high revs willl make a lifter tick go away if it was due to dirty oil or the car had sat for a long time replace the oil pump seal, search "mickey mouse" gasket, since the gasket is shaped like that, and one of the 'ears will suck in. use a dab of silicone on the ears to hold it in place when you re seal the pump itself should be fine. all the pumps i have removed have the cavitated gasket. fix the oil pump seal and change the oil and the tick should go away. save all the labor for the cam towers if the tick persists after doing the oil pump seal here is a tip: remove the pitch bar and take the nuts off the motor mounts and jack up the motor by the transmission and it will raise up a good 3 inches and this will allow better access to the valve covers and cam towers

plenty of heat and PB blaster. sweat the moisture out and let the pb soak in. heat, spray, heat, spray, hammer, roatate, heat, sppray, hamme5r rotate. use a 3 lb hammer because a ball bppne or a capenters hammer just wont do. if you can get theputer end of the axles out of the spindle end, its eaier to pund away withthe hammer withthe whole diff out of the car. clean the splines up real good and use anti seize when you go back together

remember that the 3 bolts in the center of the head are shorter then the rest of the outer bolts

charging system related. typical of an alt/volt reg. going out. if the volts seem fine when the battery is unhooked, maybe the battery is bad and is overdrawing the alt when it is hooked up. try replacing the battery and see if that fixed it before the alternator finally does take a dook

i had an 86 carb wagon that was just up and given to me. single owner with over 300,000 miles. the cankshaft had about 1/8 inch of back and forth play. the car was rusted out enough the fuel lines ripped apart while baja'n. i kept the car going with a gas can under the hood. eventually the car was parted ut and the heads withtheir lifters continued to live on on another bottom end. 200 bucks is a fair price. since you dont have to deal with rust, you can always drop in another motor that you have laying around if this one craps out. but i say you are good to go. the car probably needs to see some 4-5,000 rpm revs for a 15-30 second duration, you would be surprized if that makes the ticking go away. i would tell you it probably ticks because it has been sitting around, and not because of the mileage

i will give you 250 bucks for it, and pick it up on the first leg of the BABE rally. the car deserves it. if you would be serious to entertain the notion, send me a PM i was going to take my sedan, but i can trade it to you for its weight in parts(dual range, rx struts)

the switch is single throw double pole. there is no off position on the button when the button is pressed, it turns on the solenoid that actuates a vacuum diaphragm on the transmission in one direction. when you unpress the button, it turns on the other solenoid drawing vacuum on the other side of the diaphragm and disengaging it. so suppose the button on the shifter is bad? if so, you can engage 4wd simply by reversing the vacuum lines at the solenoids, essentially making the switch work backwards.(off is on and on is off for 4wd) but you will have to switch them again to disengage the 4wd(with the same bad switch)

there is a relay above the steering column directly above the ecu. the BROWN one it will trip with a signal from the ecu caused by a pulse from the distributor. if you plug in the green test (static timing) clips the pump/relay will cycle onand off every 2 seconds. if the test clips prove to work, then you need to look at the distributor, mainly to see if it is turning or not(broken timing belt) turnong the key to the on position will kick on the pump for a second until it sees a signal from the disty to keep going it is possible the fuel pump is getting voltage but is not grounding. the ground side ties in withthe rest of the body ground. you can jump a new wire directly to the body if it is necessary

a long time ago i once put ea82 inner tie rods on an ea81 manual rack formy ea82 suspension conversion there is a flat washer thet is folded over the lock nut. if i'm not mistaken the inner threads are left hand. it has been a while hence my vague recollection. i remember having more difficulty slipping the boots back on if anything

this is not necessary. the factory radio is common ground for the speakers of the wires on the car, you will have 3 for the front speakers and 3 for the rear. each has a left+, right+ and common ground if you are connecting an aftermarket radio use one ground wire for the front channel and one for the rear. side doesnd matter. simply leave the unused wires disconnected on the back of the radio, dont even need to tape them off(just tuck them out of the way or twist them together AND THIS FOLKS IS HOW YOU CONNECT A COMMON GROUND

follow the rubber hose up to the back of the motor and unplug them, cap off teh ports the hoses connect to with a piece of rubber inner tube and a hose clamp you can eliminate the whole mess if you can find a plug for the exhaust port. the rest of it just bolts to a bracket on the back of the head. you can make a block-off plate or just weld some random bolt to the end of the chopped tubing but yes, it can be eliminated and later models exhasts will fit the same. ask for a 94 loyale unless they are making one from scratch. if that's the case have a 2 inch cherry bomb in place of the resonator and do away with the muffler, turn the timing up to 10 or 12 deg

the 105mm would be the AC version with the the hub closer to the pump bpdy on the shaft, and the pulley bolts to it. typical of turbos with the hitachi (square) compressor the 110 mm would be the studded hub that is on the end of the shaft, and is typical of spfi's with the matsu************a (round) compressor the panasonic compressors are typical of dealer installed AC

well with an ej22 with 255,000 miles, we changed the oil to synthetic and held the rpms at 6000 rppm periodically during warm up, and that cured lifter tick

so if you have power gong to one axle, wther it be front or rear you will have nothing to lose over FWD, but overall this makes the power more spread out for handlling and sport driving vs FWD. for example cornering in a FWC could spin a wheel and understeer, whee the full time could let that power out th the rear to kick the back en dout. and with the diff locked you get what you are used to already. so really, the only thing you have to lose is FWD only, which is not a bad thing it is possible from what i have been reading to put a viscouls center diff from a legacy nto the rx trans to make it a true AWD with lo range.

as already stated preperation is most important i have spray painted many many cars so i will share with you my tecnique and expertise the cheap wal mart primer is just as good ans any top brand primer. the walmart stuff you can buff down with a scotch brite pad or even a paper towel between coats. rustoleum or duplicolor paints work best for final coats. the cheaper wal mart pant will fade and axodize without a clear coat. the rustoleum will last long without a clear coat. the duplicolor or anthing with a flake splarke will look best with a clear coat. tape off everything and remove what you can beofre the final spray. find a place out of the wind, work on one direction uniformally, and dont stop in the middle of a coat! if you have new cans, use the first top hald of each can for horizontal surfaces like the hood and roof, and use the bottom half of the cans for vertical surfaces like doors and fenders. if taping off between colors allow the first coat to dry so the tape doesnt take it off. dont leave tape on too long or it will leave residue on the paint. peel tape sharply away opposite of the edge to not peel up the paint with it. your concentrated wheel dressing mix sprayed on after a wash when the car is still wet acts like a wax for spray paint. apply wit a spray and wet cloth. lift off the button between passes since this is painting, not scribbling like you do with an eraser. overlap your passes so they blend uniformally. if you get the light angle just right you can watch the paint melt into itself. if a coat looks rough it will melt into itself as it spreads out. if a coat looks to thin, keep going anyway as long as the paint is smooth, and the paint will cover better on your 2nd or 3rd coat. i recomment 2 coats of primer and 2-3 coats of paint. for each color, or type of paint, it takes about 1 can for the hood, 2-3 cans for the sides, and 2 cans for the top/rear, roughly 6 cans each coat 6 cans of primer and 6 8 cans of paint should get you about 2 coats each

average going price would be around 125. 175 is more of a price including the flywheel and clutch and driveshaft and all that. with he one you found today, make sure you at least have the shifter. if the shifter is not with it, or partially missing, try to offer up 150 instead. really 150 would be a better price if you can get it for that

all the vac lins can be removed, if you have the intake off the whole metal vac line system is removeable as one piece, and you would connect the cabin vacuum from the firewall to the nipple on the intake itself. although i dont recommend this unless something is broken or you are building legos. i stripped my sedan's spfi and it could stand to run better. anf anything you eliminate it could be the egr or purge control, but only if those systems dont work anywy. althoug it looks like a rat's nest, the spfi vac system is rather simple

this will not work withthe parking brake set oh, and a loose castle nut will act the same as a bad wheel bearing. but if its loose for too long then it can destroy the baring or the splines in the hub.

if this is trasshwagon 5mkII one of the ball joints have been replaced. i cant remember is we did both or not ball joint noises occur when hitting bumps, potholes and washboards, and if floppy enough, can cause the wheel to shimmy off and on at varyting highway speeds, and feather the outer treads on the tire. how are the axle boots. the inner boot may have some sand or gravel in it. actually on the original trashwagon i had a pea gravel in the doj, and drove 600 miles from iowa tha way. ask mcbrat if he remembers that... anyway if the doj gets bad enough that will cause a rumble in the seat, and be somewhat progressively louder as it gets worse. it can be bad enough to cause a vipration int he wheek, but not so much handling problems. if the outer cv is bad enough the race can hang up inside and jertk the steering out of your hands, and sometimes you have to turn sharp the other way or while reversing to reset the race, if its that bad expect it to break when you accelerate while turning. otherwise if the whgeel bearings are bad, the car can wander to one side or the other. you will hear a noise turrning in the direction of pull and it will go away turning the other direction a bad bearing if bad enough, will let the brake rotor ride sideways and wer the brake pads at an angle, and even be so bad the rotor rides against the caliper bracket. on my sedan it was so bad that i had metal to metal brakes, and if i turned while reversing the rotor would hang up against the caliper4 bracket and lock up if you have the hubs from the gl1- sedan thosw will sap over wither withtheir axles, or by themselves with tw5mkII's or a new axle. but once you have the axle out its no more than a seal puller and a drift punch to replace the bearings. you can get replacement bearings for about 30 bucks, some of th eaftermarket are sealed bearings, but pack the hubs with grease anyway and emove the seal on the inner sides of the sealed bearings.