MilesFox

probably Madison, WI. i lived there, but moved back to milwaukee. make sure to bring back some old soobs, we can use them around here. otherwise if you need parts go to cindy's salvage in cambridge, wi (the fabled "subaru heaven") i know i got the only 2 brats in milwaukee, for sure. you might just like it here enough to stay. first of all you m ay freak out about how ridiculously easy it is to register a car out here, and even car insurance is not required to do so. the tax base might be more out here, but you may find the laws to be less strict and the state to offer more services moving to wisconsin can't be a bad thing. it was a good thing for me

dump a can of that 104 octane boost, the "off road stuff" in the black can or similar. all the octane volatiles would have evaporated. i have run used gas, but pouring a gas can of it into the gas already in the car. if its not full top it off with fresh gas. otherwise just add 5-10 gallons when you fill up and she should burn it just fine. i towed cars from iowa mixing down the old gas from the car i was towing. you will smell old gas in the exhaust as it burns.

it is possible for the CAS to have died entirely, especially if the tach was jumping around. otherwise if it was the amplifier transistor the car would start up after it sat a while but die once it warmed up.

take off the cap and see if the rotor is turning. if it fell out, reinstall the set screw. otherwise if it doesnt't turn your timing belt is broken/stripped. the disty has to be turning for the fuel pump signal since the disty is optical and serves as the crank sensor. the fuel pump, however, will come on for 2 seconds when you turn the key. if the fuel pump is clicking off and on, then the green test plugs are plugged in when thay are not supposed to be, since this is designed to cycle the fuel pump for diagnostic purposes, but is in no way related to the action of the crank sensor. sooner or later someone will post the timing belt article, if you haven't found it already:)

sounds like the wheel bearing. you wont hear the noise like a blazer because these are ball bearing with 2 races that the spindle pressed thru vs. a roller bearing seating the rotor on the blazer. you might not notice the handling at first, but you will hear a slight growl turning one direction but not the other. once there is enough play you may hear the rotor clacking around and if it's bad enough the rotor will hit the caliper bracket, or wear the brake pads at a slant. there are usually 2 causes to bad wheel bearings, which otherwise would last the life of the car: 1. worn seals allowing dirt to contaminate the bearings 2. loose axle nut or bad cone washers not holding torque if you need help with the bearings i have the tools, just holler. the job will take within 2 hours, you can bring the car here to milwaukee. anyway keep it posted.

use the FWD XT struts. they dont extend as far, but you can use your same springs. you will have the same spring rate but lower ride height. this way you don't compromise your handling by chopping your springs. just order struts for a fwd xt and you are good to go.

which hoses? there is a little hose between the intake and the top of the block. the water hose on the bottom of the turbo goes to the metal pipe off the passenger side head. the hose on the top of the turbo connects to the intake under the plenum. then your 2 heater core hoses. for the fuel lines, the skinniest hose is the tank vent and will ultimately terminate at the purge control solenoid and the charcoal can. it originates from the framerail below the master cylinder and connects next to the fuel lines. The fuel pressure regulator is AFTER the injectors, so if you found the rtegulator this is the fuel return line. The fuel supply line will be the largest hose in the middle coming from the filter. the other hose on the bottom of the turbo with the foil on it connects to the oil return drain pipe on the back of the head for the pcv system, the hose from the passenger valve cover will connect to the intake boot. the driver side head will tee in with a hose that goes to the pcv itself, and with the crancase vent on the top of the motor near the bellhousing. the aav (aux air valve) on the top of the thermostat connects to the bottom of the intake plenum

give her a tap with a mallet and it should pop off. sometimes they stick if they are rusty or have never been removed, just surface tension.

After some random guy hollering at my soob i got a lead on a 86 brat that had been sitting for 2 years after the guy broke the oil pump trying to do the seals. she is a fair bit rusty in the typical places, but the interior is in decent shape. the motor turns over by hand despite having sat with no oil and pump for 2 years. motor has 230-some thousand miles. we attempted to tow it home with the towbar, but on of the tow points on the car broke off due to rust. looks like tow rope thru downtown action time! The car is sitting at a gas station on the south side right now. we should go after it right away in the morning before someone steals it for scrap.

the question here i guess would be is the 3AT turbo case narrower by any means than a MT case as far as the axles being a little longer. i am having this same problem in my rx with 5 lug xt knuckles and legacy axles. the only variable i could see here is the orientation of the strut cap. otherwise if we put in the stock axle it would fit fine. we did make sure to bottom the doj for clearance, and i have tried prying the motor over for more room

describe this "play". could be a wheel bearing depending on how you describe it.

that is a lot of money for that model car. an offer of 1500 to 1750 is more appropriate for that model in minty shape. 2500 will get you a nice impreza for that kind of money. otherwise if this guy is asking such a price to cover the cost of timing belts, you may as well offer him less and take the car in its current mechanical state, and have the belts done later on your time or even do them yourself with a minimum of tools.

this does not apply since the pump is external. there is only one filter onthe firewall. the fuel return is after the injector, so make sure the lines are not backward

get ahold of alleyboy in columbus. he is looking for a complete setup, mainly the ecu and engine harness to convert from carb(85 wagon)

put a bolt and a nut thru the banjo end of the brake line using the copper washers. that or find a fpld overr and pinch off the steel brake line itself, but you would have to replace it.

do not junk this car! if no one secures it, i can tow it away with my towbar. milesfox@yahoo.com i am in milwaukee

any other ea81:banana: axle will work. left and right are both the same

i agree about the bad u-joint. you can swap in the rear half of the driveshaft from any manual or automatic ea82, since the rear halfs are all the same lengths between drivelines and it contains both u-joints. otherwise if you need to pull the gas tank you can do it by dropping the diff down from the hanger, but it does not have to come entirely out, or undo any of the axles. i yanked the tank out of my sedan and towed ot to the junkyard witht eh diff and axles just hanging there by the pivot bolt.

all rear diffs(with male stubs) are 23 splines

swap out the transmission from the top starter to the side starter bellhousing. this will let you use ea81 and ea82 engines, and also an ej to ea bellhousing adapter.

the fuel pump relay will be hot on one side and it grounds thru the ecu. the ecu has to be live to ground out the relay to kick on the fuel pump. does the horn and clock work? they are on the 'hot all the time' circuit. check fuse number 5 "horn/clock/hazard fuse, since this also supplys 12v constant to the ecu. a common problem for this fuse going bad is during stereo installs when you would accidentally ground out the constant 12v green wire if you backfed 12v thru the green wire on the radio this should make the eu come live, if it is in fact dead good luck

egr stuck open? inspect the egr vac circuit and solenoid. you may have to take it off and clean all the crap out of it.

86 brat, high topper 270,000 mi last average on highway driving was 28.6 mpg, this was a mix of highway driving and county roads, across 3-400 miles, half of which the back was loaded with a ej22 and a transmission. average speed was within 65 mph, i try to be consious of my cruising speed which plays out to be about 63 mph @ 3,000 rpms on 185/70 wheels. when i boufht the brat the seller told me the valve lash has been adjusted. so you guys in the hi-mileage ea81's should consider the valve lash to get that last bit of mpg out of your old soobs

yeah i have see these before, its for the spare. i think the threaded 'wingnut' is a little different for the rear()longer) but is the same thread. but who wants to unload their whole car just to change a flat tire?