MilesFox

radiator!!!

firing order is 1-3-2-4. #1 cylijnder is the front passenger. rotation is counter clockwise. #1 on the disty is the terminal on the rear of the cap just to the right of the clip/screw, pointong at the master cylinder. the timing belt sequence is spelled out in the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual forum

use subarus. if you got there in a subaru, then only a subaru can get you out

if you are referring to an ea82, the chime is located just to the right of the stereo. you will see a tine little "vent" on the dash below the fan switch, and that is where the chime is. it plugs into a pink connector. you can get to it by dropping the glovebox door

there should be some sort of connector under the dash, that when you plug them together, resets the light. they may be white plugs on black wires. the light is manually tripped by the odometer at 60,000 mi. if you take the gauge cluster out you will see a switch activated by a cam on the odometer reels. cheap dealer service trick, really

86 brat, 275,000 miles, 4spd d/r. with t-tops, the motor has had at least a new water pump and spark plugs, deep cell battery. the fan blower is burnt out. everything else works like it is supposed to, the exhaust is solid there is body damage on the passenger fender. rust is very minimal for wisconsin, ther is no rust on the doors, virginia native car. so how much is it worth? i am considering selling it to the parts guy at the soob dealer. i am asking 800 bucks. i would ask 1000 even if it werent for the fender. i would ask 1200 or 1500 if it was ebay. i don't want to gouge a fellow soobist by asking too much, but i don't want to sell myself short, having one of the only functioning brats in wisconsin, at least between milwaukee and madison

for ea82 there is a slight difference in caliper dementions after 87. you are less likely to have clearance issuies with pre 88 ea82's

this is a common issue. generally it is caused by the skinny vac hose that runs to the manifold is accidentally disconnected when you get unbder the hood to do some minor maintenance. it is easily unnoticeable. also, a symptom of this loose hose will be the vent selector only blowing out of the dash vents on any setting. the skinny vac line comes from the intake manifold on the passenger side and runs along the strut tower. it will be spliced with a reducer between the intake and the canister itself. otherwise, if the vent selector itself is working, suspect the vacuum switch solenoids, which are located behind the driver strut tower. there will be lines from the canister and from the solenoids to a diaphragm on the transmission. be aware of an audible click to determine the solenoid is working. you should hear a click each time you turn the 4wd on or off, since there has to be vacuum to the diaphraagm to move it either way for both the on and off positions

sounds like a bad wheel bearing. i will bet the timing belts were improperly installed (wiht engine swap) and the 4wd issue may be a vacuum line not connected to the motor. see if you heat selector works

people would rent 14 foot u-hauls with some of those loads. if you are refeering to 'crazy' things done in subarus, i would be better off not to say.

the pistons are rotated to seat them being that the parking brake is engages with the front wheels. similar to that af cable parking brakes to the rear like nissan. the hill holder is a subaru design that holds brake pressure toe the rear brakes while the clutch was engaged and you had let off the brake pedal. the brakes are dual-diagonal, so the driver side front and passenger side rar brakes are ganged together, and vice versa. you will want to start your brake bleed procedure from the rear wheel, then its opposite front wheel diagonally. although, this will not be necessary unless you open a brqke line, or just wnt to flush out the fluid. subarus are tricky with this, you can hold down the cluch pedal while pumping the brake, since the hill holder does play into effect with the breking dynamics of manual transmission subarus. cv axle are easy enoufh to change with the proper handful of tools. if ask about book time for labor rates on subaru axle replacement, it will usually include the bearings and removal of the whole knukle/axle from the car, and have the parts pressed out, and pressed in, with better than 300 bucks in cost. with technique, you can change an axle with no more effort than mowing your lawn on a Saturday afternoon. if you want to be aconomic, just change whatever axle at a time as needed. read up on USRM on timing belt and water pump articles. subars really are a good beginner car for a mechanic with straight-forward engineering you would thing should be universal

look at the hose between the block and the manifold. usually this leak will dry up as fast as it leaks, but will drip now and again before the block heats up. sometimes the coolant will run off the back of the motor or puddle up in one of the spark plig castings. check the water pipe o-ring where the lower radiator hose connects. if it leaks there it drips elsewhere on the bottom. you can pop the water pipe off by removing the 12mm bolt where the ground wire is. real easy to fix if that's the problem.

it could just have not been full of coolant to begin with, along withthe loose belt. if this is a fresh head gasket job i bet its still ok. if the car was only idling it would have been more of a mild overheat. if you didn't cook the oil you should be ok.

chop out a section of the midpipe after the cat and put it there. take the leftoer length op pipe and replace the muffler with it. this works best, with what i have found out making random exhausts with cherry bombs

about the wheel clearance, you can grind off the edge of the calipers to correct that, or use ea82 spoke wheels. 85 and 86 ea82 calipers clar a lot better. i like the gold wheels. it remids me of this: that is a firebird wing on the back

i went out to montana and back in an 87 rx with the center diff locked. we had a bad wheel bearingf so we swapped on an xt6 trailing arm and were running the passenger rear wheel as a 5 lug and the rest as 4. we removed a rear axle to keep the lsd from burning up (different tire sizes) and locked the diff to run FWD. no problems, but all of our torque was thru the front diff, and we were just highway driving

oxy clean and a scotch brite pad

find out when the timing belts were changed (prob 30 k ago) and check the condition of the radiator. with a rebuilt motor you probably have a new water pump. cooling system takes the most priority with longevity. check the axle boots, but its nothing to walk away from. if anything a new radiator for PM and be good to go for a long time

i bet the problem is more related the the ignition switch itself, and changing the starters has not made any difference other than leading you to believe they are failing when they are most likely not.

it's ipossible that the belts were serviced and aligned to the 0 deg btdc mark. this is NOT the mark to alighn the cam to, but rather 3 hash marks ||| depicting the crankshaft and all the pistons are in the center of their bores. the haynes book is correct in the procedire if you READ THE TEXT,but the illustrations do not depict the 360 deg crank rotation between doing the first belt and then the second. usually you will find a subaru that has had the belts repaird only to run like crap becaquse of "bent valves", unbeknownst to random mechanics that these are non interference engines, and the crank rotation between belts. if both cams are up or down at the same ime, then this is your problem. i would bet on the timing marks

sounds to me that the key is being removes IN the accessory position. which fan are you mentioning. my 86 brat runs the heater fan in the acc position. the radiator fan will rin in the acc position, but is tripped by the thermoswitch. suppose the thermoswitch is stuck in the closed position. the wire to the switch is hot all the time and grounds thru the switch thri the radiator. there is a ground wire on the top of the radiator

if you can find a junkyard nearby, any fuel injected subaru will have the ignitor unit. i place my bets on the disty itself(crank angle sensor) the 86 and 87 distys will have a round plug, and the 88 and up will have a square plug. the entire pigtail detaches from the bottom of the deisy housing, its held on by 2 screws. rule out the ecu is bad, there is no way. you got water in the distributor, narrow your troubleshoot to that alone.

the disty is the crank angle sensor. the little transistor on the coil bracket is the ign amplifier. which takes a signal from the disty thru the ecu and amplifies it to break the coil fields. i would start at the disty, and to really start at the beginning of a troubleshoot, make sure the rotor is turning(broken timing belt). maybe the disty needs to air out. it wont hurt to take it apart and spray wd40 in there and let it air out. otherwise if you need to replace it, other spfi and mpfi models will work. if the plig on the wire is wrong, you can swap the whole pigtail.

you can swap on an ea82 hitachi or even the whole intake. typical route is to do a weber swap. you could even swap in an ea82 with monor mod. otherwise if you open up the exhaust a little(custom fab from cat back, your typical off the shelf exhaust pipes bent to fit, and a cherry bomb!) and bump up the timing a few degrees will make it a little more peppy.

the difference wold be in the font half of the driveshaft, the one thet contains the carrier bearing. as far as i would assume, the rear halfs should be the same on legacys. at least this is true for older model subarus(ea82), the rear half is interchangeable regardless of model