MilesFox

make note that my post was the part number for the stub axles, not the driveshaft, i misread the site when i posted the part number

it is the vacuum canister. without it, you will not have heater controls or diff lock functions. leave it there.

what i need is a light on a stand. i only had the one shop light and it was dark out. the other videos have better light. the flourescent light isn't that great for the camera

i am having a similar issue with my 86 3-door. my condition is worse as it acts like it is running out of fuel and i have to advance the disty to start. i replaced the pump, filter, and top half gasket, leaned outthe carb what i could. we need to find a good schematic of vacuum, wiring, and the circuits in the carb, i guess good luck! i'll be following your progress

Aside from snow donuting and self documentation, I broke out the video camera to document a 5spd swap on a 92 loyale, and everything in between including engine seals and timing belts. I have made 10 episodes so far, and there will be about 10 more with the 4 hours of tape i have. I anticipate shooting more, cv axles, changing noisy lifters, and eventually spfi harness swap onto a carb 86 3door. i finlly have a decent mac computer running windows and pinnacle studio to make my videos #1 is going up right now, i have thru #5 up already, thru 10 by the end of the day, and thru 20 once i finish editing i'll be adding the videos to www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service.htm and linking them on the USRM by category watch for them on www.youtube.com/milesfox watch them in a row to see the order in which it happened. i'll make playlists according to certain jobs as the videos are categorized by a multitude of specific tasks here is one that is up now let me know how thay watch and if you have any suggestions for what to include or what should be in the videos(captions, subtitles, procedure lists, etc.)

part number NOS 11636 napa on state has one in stock

you could try u-haul as they are the nations largest retailer of custom hitches. they carry the best major brands, valley, curt, draw-tite. you should be able to get a fair price, avg 125 bucks for the hitch, its easy to put on with your own tools, bolts down to the tow loops under the car. if you go with their install and labor and lights you will be pushing 250 bucks if you are shopping around, the part numbers from the manufacturer should be the same as what u-haul lists. what you will find is a class 2 2500 lb with 1/14 inch receiver for your subaru

as far as an oil pan i use permatex ultra copper on cork gasket, both sides. mainly to keep it from carbonizing to the pan

sounds like a dealer installed cruise control, it has wires going to a vac module and a cable to the throttle. it is standalone and is usually connected near the fuse panel the haynes manual only covers oem types. what you ahve is not factory original. i would think that obtaining a schematic my be obscure.

if you mean DRIVESHAFT the wagon, sedan, and 3door are same length for ea82. this is true for the rear half of the driveshaft. the front half is specific to auto or 5spd trans. you need to find a driveshaft from ANY 4wd 5spd ea82 wagon, sedan, 3door

if you drop the pan you may be able to just turn the shanks of the bolts out with pliers, if they are not bottomed out in their threads, there is no torque on them

i'd break out the helicoils. but hey, i give credit to ingenuity. i guess its worth the extra labor to not ruin the exhaust studs. i once swapped heads because the stud threads were all stripped out

wet belts? of course this is only an isea if it was raining or the roads were moist.

I would second a stripped timing belt. had it happen to me. it could have lost a tooth and skipped time, then let go entirely, or stripped enough teeth to quit take off the disty cap and check to see if the rotor tuns. pop off the covers and go through the rotaton sequences here: http://offroadingsubarus.com/timingbelt_ea82.html

????? i would see of you are getting spark at that cylinder. just take out the plug and set it on metal to see the spark. you may have an issue withthe coil pack. make sure you dont have spark before suspecting a burnt valve ?????

400 dollars is straight if the condition of the engine is relative to an improper timing belt repair, such as installing the once cam out of phase. if you have a chance to diagnose this then it's and easy fix. make sure your noise is lifter tick and not rod knock, as it likely is. i would almost bet this car was never serviced, then the timing belt broke. mechanic installed belt wrong, car goes up for sale. too common tale of 'rural' subarus

crank angle sensor? usually a problem after the car has warmed up, then wont start, then let her sit for a while and she'll start again

i just completed a 5 spd swap since i posted in this thread the other day:banana:

if you may have cooling issues then go ahead with the radiator. i'm sure you have a newer water pump if the timing belts are done. the radiator is the single most important part for longevity. unless you don't know the history of your car, or are long overdue for changes, you can forgo all the fluid changes. if you are in mountains i could suggest flushing the brake system, basically bleed them out till it runs clear. make sure you have a spare tire and a means to change it. you wont need much tools, just 10, 12, 14, enough to change an alternator belt. you wont need more than that unless you anticipate doing timing belts and axles over the road dont forget to clean out and organize your car because having a messy car over the road can get in the way of things

it takes longer to wait for parts than it does to do swaps.

make sure the sound described is actually lifter tick. its common, but not devastating. the gl is mechanically the same and is a better choice if its not in worse condition than the loyale(miles and rust)

place the jack under the tranny diff, undo the motor mount studs from the crossmember, remove the pitch bar. you can raise the motor up 2-3 inches. you can leave the exhaust pipe cnnected

if it is air try holding down the clutch during bleeding to get all the fluid to move through the rear. this applies if the hill holder is still functioning. acts like a one way valve when beleeding the rear

if you built the trile from a subaru rear suspension, the fwd trans will fit between the axles as if it were the rear diff

i can tell you that if you need a replacement, any full time mt with diff lock(xt6 and rx) or any single range pushbutton 4wd mt(loyale, gl, xt) will be the same vacuum solenoid. as far as the solenoids, one is off and one is on for either position, alternately. if they fail you can switch the vac lines to engage or disengage 4wd, but have to swap the lines back and forth each time.