MilesFox

i'll have to get a pic of this. the car is behind my garage and i will be pulling the motor. The owner of the car paid some fool 700 bucks 2 years ago to rebuild this motor. he claims all the bottom end has been redone. but i have a feeling he paid this fool 700 to put the heads on backward. i bet the mechanic thought he was going to do the crank and rods until he removed the oil pan:lol:. i bet you a dollar this motor was never apart on the bottom end

usually the little damper on the pump itself will rust out. you will more than likely break it when trying to remove the line. usually starts out as a pinhole leak and a fin spray mist. running the pump dry will not make it leak. but a leak present will affect pressure to the injector

idle air control valve or engine temp sensor. the IAC is supposed to open on a cold start. it acts like a choke to increase idle, but by introducing a 'false' vacuum leak to kick the idle up. either this part is not working, or the temp sensor is bad and the car does not know it's cold. try unplugging the green 2 pin connector on the thermostat housing(this is where the sensor is located) and see if the car runs any different. the IAC valve istself is on the front of the throttle body with a hose going from it to the intake boot. try soaking it in carb cleaner, or you can remove the part and clean out all the carbon and junk. this is assuming the unit works but is clogged up.

I have an 89 xt6 in my garage, already converted to coilovers, but the air lines and sensors are still present. if you need a specific part shoot me an email milesfox@yahoo.com

if you can find where the sheild is loose, you can tie a hose clamp to hold the shields tight. I have seen exhausts with huge dryer hose clamps all the way around the catalytic converter. if they are horribly rusty, you can probably just rip them out. If you try to unbolt them, you are likely to break the bolts or rip out the captive nuts.

i had this problem once. i resorted to a breaker bar and a whole length of subaru exhaust pipe. this worked after all else failed(including heat) the video Subaru Alliance #33 "Impossible Axle Nut" details the same scenario. You may have seen this but i'll post it for posterity. the higher ups at Blaster Chemical saw this video and sent me a case of free product i suggest you try this method and see if it works

funny thing, i got a subaru dropped off to me to do head gaskets. the previous mechanic installed the heads backwards. this was spfi, the car was running and driving, with a copper pipe bridging across to connect the egr line from the egr to the other side of the motor next to the water pump pipe.

is this the one we did the swap on? How about the oxygen sensors? I put a 95 ypipe with 2 cats on my 92 legacy which had one cat. the o2 os not connected, and the cart has trouble starting when cold yours will have 2 o2 sensors. the front one is the most sensitive

the front diff may be showing its wear. make sure the fluid level is correct. check the SHORT dipstick on the TOP of the trans. if you did not know this was there, then this may be your problem!

SWEET! there is a video detailing the ign timing. I will soon have up headgasket ej25 and ea82 videos when i get to doing the work... anyway, which bolt broke, the shortest outside one, or one of the longer inner bolts. people are going to tell you one thing or another, but i will tell you I have used an intake with only 2 bolts on one side with no issues. use new gaskets, and you can put a film of ultra grey sealant on the gaskets if you like. if you are skillful enough, you can try to drill out the old bolt, provided you know what's involved. otherwise, if i were you, i would work with what you have, and if it holds out, then you are good to go. worry about extracting the broken bolt the next time you have to pull the heads. wors comes to worst you might have to change the intake gaskets if you do have problems. clean up the bolts real good with a wire wheel, and use anti seize on the threads and the entire shank of the bolt

hatchback is different. the tank is overall shorter, and the rear half wont bolt up unless you fab a mount.

take off the cap, and rotate the crank till the 0 deg mark comes up. the rotor will point at the master cylinder, if it is pointing the other way, rotate the crank again

1993 in the usa AWD became standard after 96, the earlier versions were available as 1.8 FWD standard equip.

see if you can find an oem motorcycle plug tool, one in 5/8 and the stamped steel type with thinner walls. Maybe the STIHL dealer down the road may have something like that. Like the kind that will come included with a new power equipment I encountered your problem with a regular socket trying to get at the plugs on a honda vf500f

Assuming you are just towing a flat roll, the brat should track correctly. you want the trans in 2wheel drive, in neutral, and the steering column locked. it should track nicely. in my experiences i'll get steering the wrong way in tight slow maneuvers, or when backing. if they go the wrong way momentarily, they should straighten out as you get going.

the socket may just bee too fat to fit over the plug inside the hole. the size should be 13/16" if the plugs in there now are the correct ones. try to use an OEM spark plug tool that comes in the subaru tool pouch

I would say the easiest approach is to pull the motor. from there you have plenty of room to work around the axles, and the crossmember. having the motor out already makes re-installation of the trans a pure preeze. you can take this time to do all the engine selas on the motor, just set it in a 5 gal bucket for a stand(you would have to do the oil pan and oil pump hanging from the crane this way) here are some videos relating to removing an at, and reinstallation of a manual trans(same procedure) These videos are about an EA82 engine, but the legacy will be the same as far as bellhousing and engine mounts. between ea82 and legacy you basically use the same procedures for this type of work (engine already out, removing AT) (installing the Manual, engine out of car) this one demonstrates using the crane to hold the car up high to get the jack under search youtube for "Art of Subaru Maintenance" #01 through #03 details removing the engine 5 through 10 details engine seals and timing belts 11-15 detils engine install and hookups 16- through 17 details the trans if you watch them all in a row it details removal of the motor, engine seals, removing an automatic, installing amanual, and reinstalling the engine for a at to 5spd swap the vids show about the ehgine crane, where to place your jack, bellhousing and motor mounts, universal procdure for ea82's in any form otherwise if you leave the motor in, you can use a tranny jack under the car, but yo will have to jack the car way up to get the trans and jack under there first. An automatic will mate together much easier than a manual since you dont have to worry bout clutch spline and pilot shaft alignment

There is a resistor coil that controls the lower fan settings. The resistor is located under the passenger kick panel, to the left of the fan motor. There is a plastic tab on the lower panel that fits into a slot. The slot is on the resistor itself, it drops out with 2 screws. If you remove it, you will likely find one of the coils are broken. You can solder in a resistor if you know what resistance is needed for each speed

i mount them under the heater control pod or on the other side, or both. The instrument bezel pops off and i will run the wires into the vent and out under the kick panel for easy hookup

if you undo the shifter linkages from inside of the car, undo the pivot bolt, you can drop the shifter with the trans instead of removing the whole assembly. there is a 12mm nut that holds the assembly to the tunnel behind the shifter. remove the pitch bar on the back of the engine so the whole works will pitch down. once you drop the mount, you wull have the wiggle room to remove the axles. the motor is not much more work to take out. If you removed the engine first, you can pull out or install the trans from up top with crane, or just pick it up out of the car. if you took the motor out you can go through all the seals

if you may be losing coolant indeed do the intake gaskets. this will help your boost,also. take off the radiator cap and watch for bubbles in the goolant when she is running at temp. this is a sign of head hasket where exhaust is pressurizing the coolant and pushing it out into the overflow tank the only other possibility to lose coolant without compression issues is the possibility of a cracked head in the exhaust port. do not use bars leaks or the radiator pellets as they will wreck the heater core and possibly the radiator. if you would determine you have a cracked head and the gaskets are still good, you could try a 'liquid glass' type block sealer. brands to recommend are K&W block selar, in a can. There is a 20 dollar bottle of the 'nano technology' block sealer in the green bottle by K&W. there are cheaper brands in clear bottles with copper flakes suspended in a gel type fluid. make sure you FOLLOW SPECIFIC DIRECTIONS on the bottle or it will not work. You have to flush your coolant of all antifreeze and run crystal clear water to use the block sealers. you do this to apply the treatment, and then you drain out all the water and let it air out overnite, before adding regular coolant. Attack your problem in this order. 1. check for bubbles in radiator. of so, suspect head gasket 2.Compression test, if you have a low number on one side vs the rest, suspect head gasket. 3. If you have none of the above, take the time to replace the intake gaskets. the whole intake comes off as an assembly, you do not have to remove fuel rails, throttle body, etc. use this opportunity to replace hard to reach hoses, especially thei one near the turbo. 4. If intake gaskets dont help, and you have good compression and no bubbles in the radiator, suspect a cracked head. You would have to drop the exhaust pipe to visually verify. 5. Use block seal if necessary. only use if you know you have a cracked head, or have verified bubbles in the radiator. Do all the prior steps first. the stuff will work on a mild blown headgasket, bubbles in radiator. This will buy time to get around to a proper repair. I would not do block seal if i had coolant in the oil, or oil in the radiator. If so you want to yank the motor out and do the head gaskets right away

my gut at napa states the intake gaskets are common problem on 3.1 motors. i dont know about 4.3, bit i would suspect the intake gasket before anything else

you can bolt in anea82 motor, go with an spfi block, ea71 pistons, and an ea82 carb intake with weber carb

you will notice another plug on the oil pump. The large sender(analog gauge) fits in the larger plug, the smaller plug is there(where a dummy lite sender would go) and you can install your fittings there. be careful as most gauge kits come with standard NPT ftittings, ehre the subaru plug is metric. you may have to mix and match fittings to connecto your gauge. be sure to use thread tape

the pbc stuff would be the little 99 c packs of brake quiet anti squeal stuff. the silicone can be found in the same 99 c packs, or if you go to napa, look for 'syl-glide' brand