MilesFox

Totally sweet! I like the in-shop engineering. i see welds on the up-pipe, what did you do? I noticed your ac alternator bracket with no pump. I had that setup not having a proper non-ac mount. good work

the driveshaft and clutch/flywheel are the same between the 2 trannys, use the bet of the 2 sets

Since the car has such high mileage, it's pretty certain she has had a good maintenance history. see if you can find out what has been done since before it was parked. Some repairs are suggested for the sake the car has been sitting.

since the car has sat, expect a braoken timing belt soon. no worry, this is a non interference engine- no bent valves. it will be worth your time to do the blets as preventive maintenence. do the cam and crank seals while in there, and remove all the timing belt covers and leave them off!

its possible the clutch cable is too tight

you have a big canister filter under the hood behind the driver strut. the fuel pump is located on a mounting plate just ahead of the passenger rear tire, there are 3 bolts, the pump sits on top. you will more than likely break the bolts taking it apart, but that is to be expected. first check for voltage to the pump. if you have volts, check for ground. the fuel pump grounds to the ECU, but you can bypass ground straight to the body. you can use any spfi or turbo fuel pump frpm parts cars. otherwise you can buy a generic universal in-line fuel pump for about 60-100 bucks, depending on store/online, etc. if the parts counter has a hard time finding one under a subaru listing, try a ford f250 with secondary tank, main thing is in-line unit and fuel pressure rating of at least 40 or so lb.

hey if you do get this car, and decide to sellit in the future, i would be interested. i am a hoosier born and raised (fort wayne, auburn)! if i land myself a d/r ea82 soob one of thes days i can trade you plus cash difference. for future reference. good luck with the legacy*jealous*

dont be afraid of this car. if everything is in good working order, then it is worth between 500 and 1,000 if it was not for the rust its an easy 1200-1500 dollar car. for less than 1000 expect to find something with a bad automatic, blow head gaskets, or millions of miles, or completely rusted out. and if that scares you off, then finding something newer with less miles will be more prone to head gaskets than the older design. i would say this car is worth getting into, just work the price down what you can. otherwise if you walk away from it, you will have to tell yourself 'you either want a subaru or you don't' personally i would go towards 750 for this car, if i had the money. you should expect to do a water pump and timing belt at 200,000 miles if it has not been done already. this engine can easily see 300,000 miles on its original head gaskets. other than that, typical axle boots or wheel bearing. the mileage is just right to have plenty left

i was going to ask if you had an aftermarket radio. there is a green wire behind the stereo that is hot all the time, and if you short that out, there goes your #5 fuse. double chack your radio harness and make sure this wire is not grounding out. that may very well be your issue. i had the same issue and tore half my dash out, backfed power to this green wire, to later discover i had blown the same fuse!

the car is still worth a whole stack to someone actively looking for that particular model with that engine, to someone familiar with this car.

first thing to look at is the tiny little coolant hose that runs from the bottom of the thermostat housing to the top of the block. its about 6 inches long. of this leaks it can run down either side or the back of the engine. otherwise it can be the intake gasket. there is a coolant passege through the intake itself. the intake can be removed as an entire assembly. you can take up the intake just by unbolting it and moving it away enough to change the gaskets. or you can undo the throttle cable, the fuel hoses and the harness connectors to remove it completely. if you have to go that far, you can leave the throttle body, the intake boots and the charcoal canister connected to the intake. this isn't white wagon with blue interior you have, is it?

the bonus side of things is the rarer parts can be swapped out and retrofitted with current models that have lots of parts availability. the rarest arts are going to be related to the engine itself, mainly the cams/heads. the piston and rods share dimensions with ea82 engines. the alternator/waterpump/timingbelt are xt6 specific the front hubs and axles are xt6 specific but can be directly replaced by newer impreza or legacy parts all of the rear suspension is the same as any other ea82, so wheel bearings are universal, brakes are same as ea82 turbo, and trailing arms are same as any ea82 (dimensonally) or turbo models that had the rear swaybar. transmission will swap out with any ea82 so long as you know what gear ratios and axle splines you are working with

If the car is reliable and doesnt cost you anything to keep it, then you may as well hang onto it. but also, a well maintained clean example would be appreciated by any subaru enthusiast. i you do sell it, please don't sell it to someone who is buying it as 'just a car', but sell it to someone who would desire such a subaru and appreciate everything that YOU have done to it.

the original turbo in this car is IHI rhb5 water cooled unit. A tdo4 will mostly fit if you modify a mounting stud, and you use a wrx downpipe i know of one particular XT ('monsterwedge from http://www.subaruxt.com) that has a vf39 turbo from a legacy, on a TWE uppipe(one of some 15 made, special order) if you want to lowe this car properly, swap out the front struts for a FWD subaru XT, and rear struts from a 4wd xt. if you source an xt6 for parts, you can convert to 5 lug and mix and match wrx parts for suspension

OFF-Road. You either are driving up a mountain, or bombing around in open fields. If you are going up mountains, get a jeep. otherwise the xt6 will do ok. the diff lock operates the center diff. you can swap in a dual range transmission if you swap on 23 spline axle cups from turbo axles onto the xt6 axles, or swap in 23 spline axle stubs onto the suspension. clutch and driveshaft will fit the same. you will have to modify the center console for the d/r lever the lift kits you see around here will bolt onto the xt6 outside of a lift kit, you can get FWD rear struts from ea82 wagons or sedans to bump up the rear, even use honda accord springs on the ea82 struts. The fwd struts are longer below the spring perches. the front struts can be changed out with outback or forester struts since they are taller. the xt6 has 5 lug hubs that are similar to that of impreza and legacy, you can even swap in the whole front knuckles and have larger brakes, even brembos. doing this will allow you to use fwd impreza axles which will fit on a 23 spline trans(dual range) the car has a 3.9 final hear, so you can swap in a vlsd rear from a turbo legacy, or find any regualr 3.7 lsd from turbo ea82's and swap in the ring gear. chances are the xt6 may already have a vlsd in rear The car has potential and a lto fo stuff can be swapped on. bonus oints for the motor since it has 145 hp vs 95 in ea82, 110 in ea82 turbo, or 135 in a ej22(which will require bellhousing mods. the xt6 trans crossmember will allow you to swapin legacy/impreza transmissions, and with that you can go with ej22, ej20, ej25, and with the room under the hood, an eg33 svx motor or the 3.0 outback h6 if you study your subarus, you will learn that the xt6 is a bridge somewhere betewwn ea82 and legacy, being a hybri of both technologies and subaru was developin their current technology

I did the RPM challenge (closed course event) the days after christmas. first round was in the silver RS without ABS, on regular street tires. 2nd run was in the blue RS with snow tires, and ABS. The blue RS got going, but would not stop. I hit a cone because the ABS prevented intended lock-up for my turning maneuver. I was not aware this car had ABS until that moment. in essence, i momentarily lost control due to functioning ABS

that is Indaiana, folks. The land of where i moved away from.

maybe the shoes need to be adjusted? try some reverse braking, it should self adjust. otherwise you may have to turn the little star wheel on the bottom

make sure the radiator is in good shape. you have an ea82 turbo engine, mpfi. automatic or stick? this determines what axles it has. most other parts are compatible with other models, such as brakes, wheel bearings, alternator, etc. how many miles? you will want to know when the timing belts were last done. engine is non interference, so if it breaks a timing belt, there is no damage to the valves

Got back within 24 hours. I ditched my u-haul rental because the towbar i brough actually worked, and dude got off work at wal-mart just after i was waiting at walmart for him to get off work, not knowing he worked there, and not knowing he was the guy i kept seeing around in there until he met me at the car! Overall the car is pretty rusty, and on a scale of 1-10 (1 being PNW 'rust' and 10 being so rusty suspensions are failing) i would rate this car about a 7 overall or an 8 underneath. Positive note, its a complete car with new alternator and strong battery, but no belt. She smells of burnt oil rather heavily, typical leaks. Clutch problem seems to be the cable itself as i was able to back the car out of the driveway and stall it out.

Sorry i don't have pics, but there are documented examples and posts from people who have. search for posts by calebz and WJMgl10 pertaining to this, and alsp copper head gaskets. I personally had the chance to work onchanging out a long block on an 87 XT tubo with a twe up pipe and vf39 turbo from a legacy. this also had the ford thunderbird intercooler setup. this also had the spider intake, which should allow you to go with a wrx intercooler setup. i am just passing along what i have read on the forums

I have run motors immediately after installation when doing head gaskets, valvetrain, etc i used the permatex ultra grey when changing out lifters, and i ran the car immediately after. in my efforts to find the o-ring i needed, my bead of sealer had set up for at least 20 minutes before i could install the part. the sealer was still pliable, it did not harden, but was a little more tacky. anyway, it won't have to sit long before you can operate your engine.

take off the distributor cap and observe the rotor is spinning when the engine cranks. if the rotor is not turning, see if the set screw fell out. easy fix if so. otherwise if the distributor is not turning, suspect a broken timing belt. do this first to rule that out before going into electrical troubleshooting. the test clips are for retrieving trouble codes and setting initial timing check fuse #5 horn/hazard/clock. this is hot all the time and is live with the ecu

just line up all the marks before removing the belt

it would be a good idea to get anew radiator anyway. at 1995, the radiator may be starting to corrode. usually the aftermarket radiators are brass. you should be able to find spares in junkyards all day long