MilesFox

I like to install a cherry bomb to the y pipe flange, and 1/34 to the rear diff and a 2" turnout to the side this is what i had on my sedan the best practical use was on my 87 fwd wagon, i cut out a section of the mid pipe and installed the cherry bomb. I then used the leftover pipe to replace the muffler itself, and welded on a rebar piece to mount it up my favorite is open y pipe, but you lose low end grunt, but sounds cool:grin:

you would be better to swap a motor from a wreck. its less labor rate to swap a good motor than to take apart and rebuild a bad one. if you sell the car, stick to the book value since its too easy for someone else to flip the car by swapping a motor.

what hole are you talking about? look under the thermostat for the little hose that connects to the top of the block. i'll bet that is leaking. coolant runs down the top of the block, and collects at the spark plug. there is a drain hole for at the spark plug if this is what you are asking for. it could be a possible intake gasket, but rare. look at the hose first, most likely culprit.

left and right axles are the same lenght. you can take one from one side of the car and install it on the other side. you will find differences between FWD and 4wd axlles in shaft or axle cup diameter, but the length is the same and the fit the knuckle and trans the same.

try to push them in as you turn so they can engage the thread inside. you could use a c clamp if you dont force it, or tap on it with a block of wood and a hammer to seat it down before turning.

Suppose its some sort of circuit breaker.

you could use a shorter belt if you removed the compressir entirely. there are several variations, which one do you have? typically you wull have a round compressor inboard, and the alternator outboard. generally on turbo models you will have a square compressor outboard and the alternator inboard. if you have the first variant, just remove the compressor from the iron bracket. otherwise, if you keave it there, it will run the same as if the ac is never turned on.

i have had a pulley fly off when the shaft seized and the torque snapped the shaft clean off, no leaking.

Are those vacuum lines or electrical wires going to it? I'm sorry to say i dint know what that is, as far as i have not gotten my hands dirty on many 70's models if i had to guess, i would assume it to be some sort of vacuum solenoid or check valve. maybe for the heater control or vacuum canister? i got your message, though i would sugest assking moosens as i know he has had a lot of first gen soobs

Hello! I'm in milwaukee, originally from Indiana, and have been to the junkyards in Columbus, oh for the old subaru parts. Welcome to USMB, good to see some long-timers out there

Carbonic Acid.

forget all the bottom end work. if you are going for cheap, let me tell ya:lol: Do the head gaskets, if your kit has the valve guide seals, may as well use them. use a valve spring tool rental, and get some valve lapping paste and polish the valve seats. take off all the timing covers and do the cam seals. do the front crank seal. leave the rear seal alone as it most likely is not leaking, they last forever, you have the option to do that later with the clutch. leave all the timing covers off, this makes future maintenance easier, and use the same belt if its not bad. you can do the work later, and just as quick sans covers(inner and outer) the water pump can be done later without taking off a bunch of stuff do the oil pan as its cheap enough and easiest to do out-of-car leave the water pump alone if its known good if you know how to do the work, labor is free, but parts cost $$ you can do all this for maybe 75 bucks otherwise if you get all the other associated parts including water pump and timing belt set, you will land somewhere between 200 and 300 bucks, still cheaper than $1000

did the fuel pump crap out? the fuel pump is located behind the seats. fold down the back seat, and throw the carpet all the way forward. there is an access cover behind the seat hinge on the passener rear seat. it's not under the bottom of the seat. did it quit while running, or after you changed out a part? or did it just not start after sitting overnite?

^^^^ what they said. all of the above. I am doing the same thing on an 86 3door(in the somewhat near future) I have all the xt hardware including the trans mount. The xt6 is geared differently in the trans than a normal ea trans, and is more appropriate for an ej22 power curve. If i has an ej trans i would opt for that with the viscous center diff and to save tim/labor/money on a bellhousing adapter. I theorize, but dont' know for sure, that if you use an ej trans, an ej driveshaft would be the right lenght(correct me if this is not true)

what if you forgot? or confused with hot coffee. it makes more sense to bring the battery in at night. cold weather shouldnt be an issue until the temp nears 0 and below. people in warm climates freak out when the temp gets to freezing while the next guy is sitting in 10 degree weather all day with no problems

typical. at least you caught it right away. this is usually the end of automatic trannies; wrong fluids or wrong drain plugs.

if you have read the xt6 info you should have read about the lower control arms and tie rod ends. i suppose the legacy tierod ends can interchange, otherwise the trick is to ream the hole on the knuckle since the shaft is larger on the ea82 tierod. and same with the lower control arm, you have to ream the ball joint hole for the larger shaft on the legacy knuckle. this is what i did on my 87 rx to fit xt6 hubs, and then swapped in a legacy hub and this fit. this was a mock-up since it was never a complete project. i did not have the right axles. for axles i would 1st generation impreza axles with a 29 spline count, if your car has the original trans. you might be able to use the ej transmission if you customize the mount or salvege an xt6 mount, and that will eliminate the bellhousing issue if you go with the ej motor. But you will lose the dual range. i have read about wrx gearset and vlsd to replace the lockable open center diff. you might be able to fit later model brakes and calipers on the rear, but you are limited by using a real xt6 rear hub unless you modify or manufacture one to fit. I believe there is a fabricator out of australia that makes 5lug swap kits i am just passing general info from the forum

you should be able to replace the disc by itself if you know the PP is not failed. you can scuff down the surfaces with 80 to 100 grit sandpaper. BEWARE as i have seen a new clutch disc fail from a bad pressure plate. the clutch was already bad when re replaced the disc, it lasted a day, the culprit was the pressure late from the first time it failed. you would have to take it all apart and inspect everything to decide what you are going to do

I once drove an 88 dl FWD 150 miles through a snowstorm to make a court appearance on feb 17th. I got there to realize and ask myself "who the hell schedules a court date on president's day) I did get stuck screwing off in that town, but i was able to borrow the police officer's shovel and get on my way. that was some 8 years or so ago. more recently my 88 dl wagon is a champ in the winter. The best times are during snow emergencies when we hit the downtown to hang sideways on all the curvy streets by the river.

are all your wheels the same size?

there are 2 styles of spoke rim, between ea82 and ea81. The ea81 spokes come all the way to the rim, where as the ea82 spokes round out into a triangle stamping that has a n edge where it meets the rim. the ea81 rims on ea82's will have caliper clearance issues on 4wd models. you can simply grind off about a millimeter on the edge of the caliper and be good to go

FIXED! i replaced the intake gaskets, but for some reason i lost spark in the wires but not in the coil. I changed the cap and rotor and now she runs and drives:banana:

This car is junk. I'll do the headgaskets and the clutch to see what she does. otherwise may get a 3at and 4 lug swap to make parts for my 3door:slobber:

If you try to make something custom, the bottom studs line up the same, and the pilot hole (in a manual) lines up the same. The adapter plate needs to be 12mm (or 1/2")thick to make up the difference in the EJ22 bellhousing vs the ea82 motor. I would imagine the ej22 flex plate would bolt to the ea82 torque converter the same. use the ea82 starter

you can cut up all threads all day long if you already have the stuff laying around. the thread size is m10x1.25 Typically this thread is harder to find in hardware stores. You can buy studs at an auto parts store, maybe from a bin, but usually the pre-packaged "HELP!" brand in your typical Autozone type stores. Look for 'import exhaust studs' or GM/Toyota exhaust kit. The latter will provide you with 3 studs and 1 bolt. install the stud first, and when you do so the torque is applied to the stud once you put the torque on, vs a bolt that has to thread up first. this will cost you less than 10 bucks. it should hold its torque until you take it out again. By then you still have the option of helicoil with proper thread without compromising the diameter of the hole. The kits i have used have a nut that is tight on the first thread (hand tight), so you can install it like you would a bolt. It will instert the stud first before turning the nut. Hope this helps you. good luck:)