MilesFox

ea82 is the engine series. 1.8 with overhead cams

where do you live? i would give you a little better than scrap value if its close enough for me to travel to

I'll take in your considerations. I already have a felpro set, so i am stuck with that. I had to stop my install when the haynes book turned up blank. the head and gasket are already mated, just waiting to do the torque BTW, the head gaskets that came in the felpro kit actually have the Fuji heavy swish logo stamped on them, and are 4 layers vs the old 3 layer orig. gasket next time i have a project i'll consider your gaskets

got it! i overlooked the arrangement of the numbers in the post. now it's obvious. copper spray?

you drill out spotwelds for the control arm mount off the ea82 crossmember, and weld it on the ea81 crossmember behind the original mounting point, essentiall relocating the control arm one width back. so the back side of the original mount serves as the front side for the new location. you will have to swap over the ea82 radius rod, or modify the ea81 original i did this on my 83 wagon. it was horribly sloppy, eyeball job, but if i took my time better, this is geometrically correct true for an ea82 track you will have to mix and match tie rod ends, it may even be possible to use a whole ea82 rack. on mine i had a mix and match of manual steering inner and outer tie rod ends. you may just have to lengthen the inner tie rod, otherwise. with my setup i use ea82 knuckles, brakes, axles, and struts. I had to hog out the center of the ea 81 strut hat to fit on the ea82 strut shaft. I later parted off my car and donated the parts to a hatch build, where the next guy drilled out the strut towers to accept the ea82 strut top my build was based on information posted by rguyver. you may find it in the archives, or in the old ezboard version of usmb from about 2002-2003 the parts will fit correctly as long as you are good with comparing, measuring, and welding. mine was a bit of a hack job considering the precision of my eyeballing skills the front track will be wider than the rear. you can go as far as using ea82 trailing arms and larger brakes in the back if you use the ea82 pivot bolt and enlarge the mouting hole. my example had a complete ea82 driveline: Motor, dual range 5spd, complete ea82 front end, and ea2 trailing arms installed on the e81 torsion tube, and the addition of ea82 coilovers in place of the shocks, doubling the spring capacity. All swapped into an originally FWD 5spd car sorry i do not have documentation or pics of my work, other than random posts you may find over the years. I got rid of this car in 2004

SWEET! stupid haynes book it reads like: generic body of text, insert fsm diagram. Read one subaru specific caption, followed by vague general info. Haynes has been good to me for ea82's but i find it lacking with the legacy, it doesnt go into the 2.5 in good detail, although it covers 2.2 well enough If you can source a diagram to which bolt is numbered what, that would be great. otherwise, if i am looking at the head, i would consider the top left #1 bottom left #2 and the bottom right #6, tops are odd and bottoms are even, and keep track of my sequences based on that. let me know if that assumption is wrong What are your opinions on the permatex copper spray on steel gaskets? I have used it on ea82's with the graphite gaskets, but i have not done an all steel multi layer gasket before

My haynes book cover 2.5 and 2.2, but only illustrates the 2.2 head bolt sequence in the diagrams, and in the torque specs. I am doing head gaskets on 97 outback wagon, automatic, ej 2.5 dual cam dual port exhaust. How many torque sequences are there, their values, and are the bolts torque to yield? if i were assume, i would go by what i know with ea82's, make 3 torque passes, from 22 on the first to some 60-70 on the last. this engine has 6 bolts vs 9 on ea82 the haynes book illustrates for ej22 some 8 torque steps, skipping bolts in between steps 5 and 7 for 8 bolts. the ej 25 heads are entirely different then the 22 i figured i would stop right there until i research, and since then i have thought of using the permatex copper spray.

I had similar problems with mine, but would idle and not rev out. I claned out the carb by removing the top. I ended up doing intake gaskets. probably not your case. anyway, after all that the car would drive, but not idle well. I turned up the idle to compensate, was rough. I ran some fuel treatment through and it cleared out after 80 miles, i was able to turn the ilde down. I used a 23 dollar bottle of treatment that is designed for removing varnish and rejuvenating old gas. My car had sat for 2 years before i got it running. I used 2 oz to a full tank

try jumping pwer from the battery to the + coil terminal. this backfeeds power to the ign and will turn the car on. if it runs like this, then you have trouble in the ignition circuit

gl-10 WAS THE UPSCALE MODEL SO TURBO WAS OFFERED AS THE PREMIUM. i THINK YOU WOULDHAVE HAD TO SPECIAL ORDER(srry caps) a non turbo. the 86 gl-10 had spfi when the regular GL line was carb. There are gl turbo models out there, turbo as an option to the gl trim line

depending on if you have an analog gauge, or a dummy lite, one or the other of the plugs is used depending on the sending unit.

just some advice in going with a used subaru: I am doing a head gasket in a 97 outback, dohc 2.5. As i am doing the work, i noticed the orig. gasket is 3 layers, and the new head gaskets are 4 layers(felpro) Maybe soob switched to 4 layers in newer models? it would be safe to assume a subaru that has had the head gaskets done already would be a permanent fix(if the motor was not too cooked to begin with)

maybe the accelerator pump is going out, or you might have a clogged secondary jet. maybe aloose vac line for the secondary. i am assuming you have a hitachi carb, which this car would have had from the factory. i had fueling issues in my 86 gl coupe. after rebuilding the carb, i found my issue to be a bad intake gasket and bad rotor. I have been running 2 oz of high dollar fuel treatment. Car quit smelling like varnish, and the sporadic idle has now settled down the cats were glowing red hot when i first got the car, and had to poke them out and repair the pipe. this was before doing anything else to get the car running properly

the gl10 came with all the accessories of the gl, with the addition of cruise control and trip computer, sunroof as standard equipment. Also the pluh seats with height adjust, and fold down rear seats in sedans. Digital dash also for 5spd they had 25 spline axles(turbo) and the later models had 4eat trans(full time) with 25 spline axle as well. if its a 3spd auto, it came with 23 spline axles, but the DOJ is swappable with 25 spline. full time 5spds and rear lsd were available as options

do a new radiator and new hoses. a lot of times these engines overheat due to some obscure hose blowing out. do all of them now and never worry about it. the car will be reliable in stock form with good maintenance

probably the oil pump shaft seal is leaking

you can disregard the distributor codes, since they will show when the key is on when the engine is not running. in your situation, i would replace the engine temp sensor, the one on the thermostat with the green connector. a new one will cost 80-90 bucks unless you can find a used one. try cleaning out the idle air valve by tking it apart and spraying it with carb cleaner, or try soaking it in sea foam. the white plugs are the clear memory connectors. the green plugs should remain disconnected

i have had success running mpfi turbo on a carb block, 9.0:1 compression. Running stock boost and timing

LOOOOOONG breaker bar, with a long pope. it's the only way! slow steady torque instead of quick sharp torque. in the instances an impact has failed, a breaker bar has saved the day

the one i changed clicked a few times then would start. i moved it into the garage to change axles and lifters. it clicked again a few times intil the turned when i parked the car outside. when i went to return the car o its owner, i just got clicks and nothing at all. I had to change the sterter to get the car going. I informed the owner and he said there was ano start issue he had with no clicking at all, until it finally clicked and then turned over. this is the one i replaced with the legacy starter, turned strong on the first try! i'll bet if i disassembled the old starter and cleaned it up, it would work again.

so are you not getting spark at all? could you have popped a fuse?

it was probably to the top, then the thermostat opened and sucked out what was in the radiator. any air bubble would have burped out then, go ahead and top off again and be good to go

probably a bad starter. if its manual trans, then any other manual trans should work. I have used a fwd legacy starter in an fwd ea82, exact fit, except for the terminal to the small wire, i just cut that off and used a standard female spade connector

keep this car in stock trim since it has good collector value. if you wanted to go crazy mod, you could flip this car for a profit and get into a better candidate for a build. This one is simply too original to make changes to!

i would go with the roll-on rustoleum. its easier to control when painting outside. spray paint is faster and easier(if you are good with a can) but you will have to take more time in masking, and be out of the wind. roll on is much less messy and you can get a thicker coat of paint. i did this on my legacy, i sanded down the oem finish with 120 grit before applying the roll-on