MilesFox

with heater hose you will have to run extra length to get a wide enough radius of a bend to not form a kink. if you can find it, go with the evap rated hose. i have never seen it myself, i have always used heater hose if i couldnt source a used spare.

there havebeen times for me that the motor goes together no problem, such as the first time i ever mated a trans to motor(ea81 3at to 5spd d/r conversion in ea81 turbo wagon)... ...to other times in a fwd ea81 that just would not go back together after 3 or 4 tries. I have used the loose pp through the starter hole trick, mainly when i do not have a clutch alignment tool. Just for the record this trick will not work on an ej fwd 5spd since the pp is too small in diameter to get you socket on the bolt as a last resort you can try to sand down or use emery cloth on the pilot shaft from the trans, try to war off the edge so it doesn't hang up on the pilot bearing for the sake of statistics, i would say that i get fitment issues 1 out of 4 engine matings. just be patient, if you wiggle/draw it on just right, you will 'feel' it go into the pilot hole

i was suspecting re-used gaskets. all of the graphite stuck to the heads and deck and not so much left on the gasket, as if some sealant was used. the car was running ad driving with the heads on backward. they brazed a copper tube to run the egr pip eacross the block, and the AC bracket was loose since there was no hole there for it to bolt down to. otherwise i am thiking they doid the work with motor-in-car and just had a hell of a time and slapped it together what they could. lookoing at the gaskets, in person, you can see all the holde are distorted like the gasket was crushed too much.

place a jack under the trans to raise the whole deal above the engine crossmember, so you are not running into the frame as you are trying to mate the engine. Also, since this is a different motor, make sure you do not have the same dowel pins on the motor and trans side. sometimes this will happen when using a different motor, since the dowels will either stick to the motor or trans either way third, try rotating the crank as you go together. the pilot shaft can be a pain to get right. put the motor on enough that you can thread a nut on the bottom atuds, and use the top bolts to try to dwaw the motor together, going around and watching for a bind raising the trans off the crossmember is key for this procedure. let us know what you have tried already I have made a series of videos to help you and others new to subarus

there is a guy in the Indiana Impreza club that is selling an adapter plate to mate a soob to a gm trans for some 200 bucks, i'm sure he still has it.

Helloo, your 88DL is the economy trim package, mimimum options. Mechanically your car is the same as 1985-1995 dl, gl, and loyale. the only thing different on your car is the tachometerless instrument cluster and the quad headlights. otherwise, the engine will be the same for any other spfi, although there were different connectors on the engine for 86 and 87

thanx. That makes me feel better about the heads. The ones from the failed engine checked out as flat, and the other heads were pull-offs from another engine with a bad piston showing the .005, when these head gaskets were not failed.

pictures

I had a guy bring his loyale to me after he had some steam in the tailpipe. I told him his conditions and he continued to drive the car till it just quit running. This is the car that has the heads installed bacwards(sorry my camera was out of commission and i missed the pic) anyway, i pulled the motor iand removed the heads. The gaskets were all distorted and crushed looking around the bolt holes, and one of the rings was blown out on one side, and on the other head it was distorted near the bolt hole. 2 ctlinders had failed on one side and 1 was beginning to fail on the other side. it looks to me that someone either did not do a proper tightening sequence, or went with full torque on one pass in the sequence. It looks like maybe they did the heads in-car and had a hell of a time putting it all back together, used regular rtv on the cam towers, and one of the cam lobes had a huge nick in it whre the chroming was flaking off. The car did not get terribly hot before it let go, and the heads are not warped according to the machine shop. these look like remanufactured heads anyway. Compared to a set of pull off heads from another motor, the pull offs show .005 on a flat edge between the cylinders taking this engine apart, the bolts came out easily, as if the heads had worked loose from a bad install and with the measurements of the machine shop, i am wondering if there is a slight concavity to the surfave of the heads that gets squeezed out wioth the torque sequence. this raises 2 questions for me to ask: 1. what possible scenarios could have caused this type of failure 2. is there a warpage limit or tolerance that is ok, or should there be a slight concavity between the combustion chambers that is squeezed out when the first 3 bolts are torqued?

i always try to leave the seal alone as long as it is not leaking, for this matter alone. why compromise a good seal? they rarely fail, and in my opinion are only worth the hassle if the orig one is obviously bad. i boogered up a front crank seal once, where the inner lip of the seal was protruding. i was able to stuff the lip back into the seal with a small pick, and to my surprize, she went together without any leaks, when i was almost certain i had ruined it.

Going open belts is fine, good convenience for repairs. I go naked with mine, but if you want a set i have a complete lo-mile pull off in good shape, i can include all the bolts if you need them. these are form an 89 gl, 89,000 mi make offer plus flat rate box

Thanks for the confirm. BTW thateas s'ko who made the comment on the smaller mounting ring

I just opened the FEL-PRO ea82 head gasket set. it had mostly Fel-Pro gaskets, permatorques for the heads, and regular stamped gaskets for everything else. for the cam seals(x2) one of them was NOK made in japan, and the other was National seal made in USA(or mexico) the EJ set in my earlier comments had the fuji head gaskets. Felpro sometimes is a mixed bag. for felpro, the intake and exhaust gaskets could be better. I wish NAPA hadn't dropped Victor Reinz sets since those were always the graphite/metal gaskets for the intake and exhaust. and to make point, for the sake of the topic of the thread, if you order from subaru you get subaru oem parts. If you know how to shop the aftermarket, you get Subaru oem parts for cheaper. Enough parts are subaru specific that you will get oem no matter what(valve cover gaskets and grommets) An oil pan or water pump gasket doesnt really matter either way

you should be confident to know that if you would ever want to 'convert from carb to turbo', a complete turbo ea82 would simply be plug and play, as long as none of the original connections have been chopped away. The MPFI harness from the car side is located under the overflow jug between the coil

new plugs and wires, go from there. otherwise point to the ign amplifier on the coil bracket. do the wires first, since that seems to be your main problem also, make sure the green test plugs are DISCONNECTED, because this will hold the timing static and not let the timing advance if they are plugged in

you should work on getting a replacement starter, so you have one on hand when the original one craps out. you should be able to use an ea82 starter from an automatic, it should fit the same. I kn0w this is true for manual trans, i used a 92 legacy fwd 5spd starter in an 87 gl fwd 5spd.

provided you have access to any part from any donor car, the best apporach would be to use the ea82turbo engine crossmember, and drop in a whole ea82 turbo engine. use the turbo wiring harness. if you are lucky with donor cars, an ea81 turbo harness and electrical system is almost identical to 85-86 ea82 turbo, if you look at a schematic. so in theory, you can run an ea82 turbo engine in an ea81 turbo car's harness(you would have to custom tie the engine harness to the body harness)

sounds like a good idea. with all the ej swaps, it seems like a relatively new idea to use a ej tranny. you'd have to get under a WRX to see if the trans mounting is dufferent. i'm sure something can be mixed and matched. i would hope that the wrx trans with driveshaft would be the right length together without mods.

a blown head gasket will not cause bad valves. but if the timing belt breaks, and bends the valves, the heads have to come off to make the repair, and thus new head gaskets upon reassembly

parallelogram steering. more places to wear out and get loose, hence the vague steering. check the conditions of the idler arm and the pitman arm, this is what holds the steering square to the frame itself

an ej 18 with 22 heads was my original idea to do a turbo build for an ea82. seems too perfect

i would assume that an ea82 torque converter will bolt onto the EJ flex plate. spacing will be correct using the adapter plate(1/2" or 12mm thick) this is an assumption, i have yet to confirm

once you have all the belts on, and have the driver side cam facing up, rotate the crank till you see o deg mark and there you go( about a 3/4 rotation of the crank, the driver cam will be facing at 4 o'clock position, the passenger at 10

Speaking of big ol truck, I just got me a 1981 Ford F-250 4x4 4spd 300 straight six. Good solid truck, comes with a 6' snow plow. I had to drive it back 200 miles to get it home, it covered the trup with 1/4 tank of gas to spare. A little rusty on the edges, but it has newer tires and a stainless steel bumper. I have a u-haul hitch leftover from one of my subarus, it happens to be a f250 hitch, SWEET! i had to take off the plow because she was getting hot on the highway. The lugnuts worked loose and hogged out the rim. I got a junkyard rim with tire and new lugnuts. truck comes with NRA sticker:Flame:

BRATS are easy enough to work on, as long as you understand a carburetor. don't go expecting to bolt on mods. the best you can do is invent, or retrofit parts from newer soobs to accept aftermarket parts.