MilesFox

first off, if either swapping ea82 turbo, adding a turbo to your motor, or installing an EJ and adding a turbo to it, you will need a turbo engine crossmember, or modify the existing one to allow clearance for the up-pipe you would be better off finding an ea82 turbo car to build on, much simpler approach. with ea82 there is no "bolt on". You either start out with one that is turbo to begin with, or be prepared to rebuild half your car just to run a stock configuration at least.

cracked sleeve? what kind of boost were you running? I have ran a turbo rx on na/block (carb 9.0:1) in stock trim, stock boost and timing, regular gas with no problem. i would just say, ea82t with normal boost, or no ea82t at all. This is the part where everyone has already barked up your tree about the matter. Do as you will, i am not against it. Just do it where it will work vs not work at all. my advice to you is ditch this block and go find a carb block to build on

I'll go stick nails in my brake line if it will make you go on somewhere. I'll hardwire my fuel pump to the battery, weld my tierod ends, run on threadbare tires, use only the parking brake, drive with no motor mount, whatever it takes to make you happy. Hell, i'll use felpro gaskets and block sealer, for god's sake. But i won't use RTV on my cam towers, sorry. close this thread already. /thread This is unbecoming of USMB atmosphere.

i don't know hwat brand or chenical subaru is using, but i have had success with K&W block sealer. So far it has worked on a few ea82's, and its working great on my toyota 3.0 v6 that used to blow steam out the tailpipe and bubbles in the radiator. the stuff i have used is the sodium silicate(correct me if i'm wrong) "liquid glass" stuff. there is a regular version and a 'nano-technology' version as far as you head gasket goes, it will probably, or has probably already, started to let go at the bottom of the cylinder where it meets the water jackets. try and get a warranty repair if you can, but dont be afraid of the liquid glass type block sealers. at least it will buy you time towards a head gasket repair. just watch your temp and coolant levels

i have seen timing belt covers worn through by crank pulley on different motors, ea82, ej25, ej22. All the ones i have seen were due to the plastic covers warping over time, but no problems with the belts or pulleys.

check the #5 fuse

what motor are you doing? i just did a 2.5 dohc, and the cams on the right almost looked about half a tooth off, but its ok. the mark will probably be on a tooth on the belt and the dot on the cam in the groove on the belt

i have decided to take the dodge/ford steelies approach. I can get them with tires relatively cheap at the junkyard, and i really need only 2 of them since the front wheels will fit regular 185 or 195/70 14 tires. I appreciate the advice, though, it would be too cool to roll on svx wheels on the camper!

as long as the rim itself fits around the calipers/drums i'm sure 16's will work. there was always plenty of wheelwell space in the rear, plus i have air adjustable shocks to raise it up if need be. so long as they fit on the rear, im good to go. the fronts had 185/70 14, which i replaced the old bias ply tires that were larger in diameter. these rims have no tires. i would have to consider the cost of 16 inch tires. dude wants 200 for the rims, but agreed to 150 if i know they would work. edit: BTW i just found a set of 215/60 16 tires on CL for 35

I have a toyota camper with all 4 tires damaged, but it has 14 inch rims, and tires for the rear are impossible to find(265/70 14) I have found on craigslist a set of svx wheels. from what i know, the toyota has 5x114.3 bolt pattern. would this work? what is the offset if anyone knows? I have to consider a rim that will accept a modern size tire

i got a 92 fwd 5spd. plenty of torque to rip the front tires loose on command. I am considering an awd swap if i can find the parts, or maybe part out to put the ej and fwd 5spd in my fwd 5spd 86 gl coupe. either that or sell it and find an awd legacy that needs work. yours is much cleaner than mine, maybe hang onto it if you cant find any in better shape for the price(free!)

I saw that car on craigslist, but its too far away for me. I'm glad to see it turn up on here. Don't let it go to junk!

^^^^ agreed. the time it takes to pull the engine will save you time overall, especially if you are going to take care of other engine seals and the like.

so when he goes to the shop, the 'old-timers' can actually work on it:lol:

sounds like a killer idea, but then you would have a longer motor and radiator clearance issues. you might have hood clearance issues as well. side draft webers would be great, though! i would like to see that happen:slobber:

pop off the cap and its a 12(or 14)mm nut. same old deal as anything else. if you find the splines are stripped, simply put a lock washer between the wiper arm and the nut. this has worked for me.

all A/C ea82 subarus will have a clutch fan. a non-ac soob can have a clutch fan swapped on. your coolant flow sounds right, you will get a little overflow coming off the revs with the cap off, when the system is full according to my experience, you should get a new radiator, or at least swap in a better one from a later soob. are any of the fins corroded? brown or green color? check to see of the fins are falling out, you can literally brush them away with your hand if they are corroded enough.

did you undo the ball joint?

ok, i get the idea now. How would the knuckle come off after the hub?

the door lock light will remain on whenever ANY door is unlocked. all the doors have to be locked for the light to go away. this is normal operation

if you are talking about the intake plenum< the 'vacuum line' (hose) goes to the axillary air valve on top of the thermostat. this valve opens for cold starts, and closes as the car warms up. this is what you have taped off goes to can you provide a picture of the motor? 85 and 86 are going to be specific to those 2 years. 87 is more like the later models with optical distributor, but the connector plugs will be more like the 85/86 (black round plug on disty) but electrically is mopre like 88 and later (optical disty, square white plug)

just a hunch, but check your gear oil. the speedo is an electonic unit instead of a cable, and the unit can still be good, but failing at the gear in the transmission. if your car is an automatic, there is a smaller dipstick on the top of the trans that contains gear oil for the front diff.

i have been fine using middle grade spray paints. stay away from the 99 cent stuff as it will oxidize qiuckly. krylon paints are ok, but will oxidize by 2 years, bu is not hard to do seasonal youchups. Krylon will be dissolved by gasoline, though, say, if you spill fuel when filling up. rustoleum is best or an equivalent brand enamel paint. Takes longer to dry, but will be a tougher paint. I have used clearcoat on one paint job out of 20 or better. I used it on rustoleum "metallic' blue to seal in all the little flakes. I used the cheapest cleargoat and it held up for several years. if you are using a rustoleum grade glossy paint, clearcoat isnt really necessary. if you want a primo paint job for cheap, do your hand at the rustoleum stuff, and then have the car clearcoated with professional grade materials. if you are handy with spraying, you can get cheaper paint to look as good as better paint, but the paint job will last only as long as the paint you use. my general rule of thumb is, the more paint smells like candy, the better it is

I just traded my hyundai elantra for 400 bucks, a DJ turntable set, Ipod touch and 1981 Ford ***-250 with plow 300 straight six, 4spd 4wd IFS leaf springs. I drove the truck 200 miles to bring it home, during which i noticed the front lugnuts on the passenger side had worked loose and hogged out all the holes on the rim. So far i have replaced the entire wheel with new lugnusts, and the rubber brake line. I have heavy duty 'fleet' shocks on order from napa. Looking at the hub, i noticed the lower ball joint is bad, which causes an alignment issue in the steering. Also, i noticed the Rotor is behind the hub itself, it looks like the hub has to come off to remove the rotor. I need to replace a broken wheel stud, and i could go so far as to install new pads as well. I would like to do the ball joint, but the axle u-joint would be smack in the way. plus, the manual locking hub has a broken knob on the driver side. I have been so used to subarus that this old american technology seems foreign to me! I want to go and beef up the front end to hold up to the overhanging weight of the snow plow. those of you familiar with this please chime in. I do not want to take anything apart until i know what to expect or need to get special tools. The truck is safe enough to drive around town and push a plow, but i would like to rebuild most of the front end as this will now be my heavy tow vehicle on the highway during the warmer season.