MilesFox

i have decided to take the dodge/ford steelies approach. I can get them with tires relatively cheap at the junkyard, and i really need only 2 of them since the front wheels will fit regular 185 or 195/70 14 tires. I appreciate the advice, though, it would be too cool to roll on svx wheels on the camper!

as long as the rim itself fits around the calipers/drums i'm sure 16's will work. there was always plenty of wheelwell space in the rear, plus i have air adjustable shocks to raise it up if need be. so long as they fit on the rear, im good to go. the fronts had 185/70 14, which i replaced the old bias ply tires that were larger in diameter. these rims have no tires. i would have to consider the cost of 16 inch tires. dude wants 200 for the rims, but agreed to 150 if i know they would work. edit: BTW i just found a set of 215/60 16 tires on CL for 35

I have a toyota camper with all 4 tires damaged, but it has 14 inch rims, and tires for the rear are impossible to find(265/70 14) I have found on craigslist a set of svx wheels. from what i know, the toyota has 5x114.3 bolt pattern. would this work? what is the offset if anyone knows? I have to consider a rim that will accept a modern size tire

i got a 92 fwd 5spd. plenty of torque to rip the front tires loose on command. I am considering an awd swap if i can find the parts, or maybe part out to put the ej and fwd 5spd in my fwd 5spd 86 gl coupe. either that or sell it and find an awd legacy that needs work. yours is much cleaner than mine, maybe hang onto it if you cant find any in better shape for the price(free!)

I saw that car on craigslist, but its too far away for me. I'm glad to see it turn up on here. Don't let it go to junk!

^^^^ agreed. the time it takes to pull the engine will save you time overall, especially if you are going to take care of other engine seals and the like.

so when he goes to the shop, the 'old-timers' can actually work on it:lol:

sounds like a killer idea, but then you would have a longer motor and radiator clearance issues. you might have hood clearance issues as well. side draft webers would be great, though! i would like to see that happen:slobber:

pop off the cap and its a 12(or 14)mm nut. same old deal as anything else. if you find the splines are stripped, simply put a lock washer between the wiper arm and the nut. this has worked for me.

all A/C ea82 subarus will have a clutch fan. a non-ac soob can have a clutch fan swapped on. your coolant flow sounds right, you will get a little overflow coming off the revs with the cap off, when the system is full according to my experience, you should get a new radiator, or at least swap in a better one from a later soob. are any of the fins corroded? brown or green color? check to see of the fins are falling out, you can literally brush them away with your hand if they are corroded enough.

did you undo the ball joint?

ok, i get the idea now. How would the knuckle come off after the hub?

the door lock light will remain on whenever ANY door is unlocked. all the doors have to be locked for the light to go away. this is normal operation

if you are talking about the intake plenum< the 'vacuum line' (hose) goes to the axillary air valve on top of the thermostat. this valve opens for cold starts, and closes as the car warms up. this is what you have taped off goes to can you provide a picture of the motor? 85 and 86 are going to be specific to those 2 years. 87 is more like the later models with optical distributor, but the connector plugs will be more like the 85/86 (black round plug on disty) but electrically is mopre like 88 and later (optical disty, square white plug)

just a hunch, but check your gear oil. the speedo is an electonic unit instead of a cable, and the unit can still be good, but failing at the gear in the transmission. if your car is an automatic, there is a smaller dipstick on the top of the trans that contains gear oil for the front diff.

i have been fine using middle grade spray paints. stay away from the 99 cent stuff as it will oxidize qiuckly. krylon paints are ok, but will oxidize by 2 years, bu is not hard to do seasonal youchups. Krylon will be dissolved by gasoline, though, say, if you spill fuel when filling up. rustoleum is best or an equivalent brand enamel paint. Takes longer to dry, but will be a tougher paint. I have used clearcoat on one paint job out of 20 or better. I used it on rustoleum "metallic' blue to seal in all the little flakes. I used the cheapest cleargoat and it held up for several years. if you are using a rustoleum grade glossy paint, clearcoat isnt really necessary. if you want a primo paint job for cheap, do your hand at the rustoleum stuff, and then have the car clearcoated with professional grade materials. if you are handy with spraying, you can get cheaper paint to look as good as better paint, but the paint job will last only as long as the paint you use. my general rule of thumb is, the more paint smells like candy, the better it is

I just traded my hyundai elantra for 400 bucks, a DJ turntable set, Ipod touch and 1981 Ford ***-250 with plow 300 straight six, 4spd 4wd IFS leaf springs. I drove the truck 200 miles to bring it home, during which i noticed the front lugnuts on the passenger side had worked loose and hogged out all the holes on the rim. So far i have replaced the entire wheel with new lugnusts, and the rubber brake line. I have heavy duty 'fleet' shocks on order from napa. Looking at the hub, i noticed the lower ball joint is bad, which causes an alignment issue in the steering. Also, i noticed the Rotor is behind the hub itself, it looks like the hub has to come off to remove the rotor. I need to replace a broken wheel stud, and i could go so far as to install new pads as well. I would like to do the ball joint, but the axle u-joint would be smack in the way. plus, the manual locking hub has a broken knob on the driver side. I have been so used to subarus that this old american technology seems foreign to me! I want to go and beef up the front end to hold up to the overhanging weight of the snow plow. those of you familiar with this please chime in. I do not want to take anything apart until i know what to expect or need to get special tools. The truck is safe enough to drive around town and push a plow, but i would like to rebuild most of the front end as this will now be my heavy tow vehicle on the highway during the warmer season.

when the car is running and up to temp, and the thermostat is opened, remove the radiator cap and you should see the coolant moving around, and ideally doing a toilet swirl indicating a strong flow. rev the motor up and down and the coolant level should rise and fall as you get on and let off the revs. if you dont see much action there, condiser doing the water pump

you can install a length of hardline along the old line between the junction block and the flexible rubber line at the wheel. typically, for what i have seen on subarus, is the lines will get rusty and break out where the steel lines go through the plastic clips that secure them to the body. i had trouble doing a suspension swap on an old gl, and every time i changed one line, the next would blow out, and i ended up replacing all of the rear lines from the junction box(with factory fit used lines from a donor car. it would be worth your time to replace the other lines to while you are under there, or at least clean all the rust an crud off the lines where they go through the body clips.

the head bolts call for a series of 180 deg and 90 deg turns. I assume they stretch, i was able to re-use the ones i was doing. The old gaskets were 3 layer, and the new gaskets were 4 layers. you will want a 12 point socket since the hex on the bolts are 12 point. I used a torque wrench, but there is a gauge you can buy to measure the angles of your bolt turns, which i did not use. good luck. if you are used to ea82's, you will find the ej25 to be less complicated in that it is less overall parts to remove/install be real careful on the cam caps, since they can break or strip threads. If you are using a torque wrench for that, i would recomment a 3/8 dr that measures down to inch lbs. I had a big 1/2 dr torque wrench that only went down to 10 ft/lbs, so i just torqued them evenly by hand. does not take much torque, its more important you apply it evenly. the outer most cam cap(seal retainer) uses less torque than the caps themselves, consider that in your torque sequences

the 2.2's are pretty rock solid, and rarely blow their headgaslkets unless there is an underlying issue. I had a 1995 legacy with 258,ooo miles. with the mileage on the car, its most likely the original water pump going out, which usually holds out to 200-225,000 miles. dont worry about the head gasket unless you continue to drive with the bad water pump. you would be safe to go ahead and change the water pump and timing belt and have many trouble free miles. what you want to determine from the seller is if the car had a chance to over heat from low coolant due to the leaky pump. i would assume the problem just started, and the seller parked his car and put it up for sale rather than pay the cost of repairs.

check to see if you blew the #5 fuse (clock/horn/hazard) as this supplies constant voltage to the ecu. i see what you are doing the bypass switch, i have had to do the same thing on several cars. the least intrusive way to have started your car in an emergency would have been to bridge a wire between the battery and the solenoid tab on the starter to kick it over by hand. another way is to eliminate the neutral safety in the shifter harness. if you pull up the shifter cover plate, you will see a connector, and the middle 2 wires have the largest gauge. you can splice these wires together to get the car to start with the key. its a common problem on automatic subarus, and is never the starter itself. good luck!

i will bet you a dollar the coolant temp sensor is bad or corroded. its located behind the intake near the turbo itself, and is monted on the water crossover casting at the back of the intake. at least clean up the terminals ands see if this makes a difference

first things fiorst, make sure there is no air bubble in the system(if you had changed the fluids or hoses recently) and make sure the thermostat is functioning. if the car is running warm at idle, sii if the electric fan os working. Also, feel the radiator to see if it is warm a bad radiator will have cool spots where the coolant is not flowing if the upper radiator hose is cooler than the heater hoses, the thermostat may be stuck close. hope this helps you. a new radiator is worth the investment for reliability oh, and make sure the water pump is working effectively(if the radiator seems fine)