MilesFox

I have re-used the head bolts myself doing a 2.5. I have ALWAYS re-used the bolts with ea82's every time, since the old subarus do not require new bolts. The felpro kit i had also contained oem gaskets wit fuju marks, along with mexican cam seals and felpro stamped intake and exhaust gaskets. I paid 250 in parts for the head gasket set, and a separate oil pan gasket. the timing belt set with idlers(gates manufacture) for 300 bucks. It cost me a little over 500 bucks to do the work. if you want to be cheap, just do what is involved with the HG, and come back and do the other stuff later, if you work on your car often enough Also, undoing the motor mount and dog bone, raising the engine up a little will give you better clearance with motor in car. although i have not done it, the EJ motors look lile they would be easier to do in-car vs ea82's, less overall parts to remove, none of the peskey lifters and followers that fall off when you try to install the cams(ea82)

You will usually find the dual range trans in 85-87 gl wagons, they also had them thru 89, but a lot of them were single range in later years. If browsing the yards, single range trans has a button on the shifter. the dual range will have a lever. if you find no button, and no lever, then its a FWD

the engine you used has a different sending unit. the sender on your new motor is for a dummy lite. its small and round. and analog sender would be larger in diameter. if using an analog sender in a car with a dummy lite, the oil light will come on when you HAVE pressure, and go away during low pressure

if you had all the parts at once, the work can be done in a weekend easy if you know right what to get to. It will save you much time and frustration if you pull the motor, especially if you do engine seals. doing a head gasket should be a permanent fix. the new head gaskets are updated. whatever you buy as a current part will supersede the original. do you have experience doing head gaskets on other cars? it makes sense to do both headgaskets o the subaru. the head bolts are like TTY in the torque sequence but you can re use them, as some folks have. be careful with torque on the cam caps. remember, you are torquing steel bolts into aluminum threads with a finer pitch

the black wires are positive, the yellow wires are negative. make sure the coil is not reversed in its polarity.

maybe a clogged idle circuit? try the Sea Foam treatment search 'sea foam' for results

did the wheel bolt back on straight? do you have any shuddering or pulsating of the pedal. did you have any fitment issues taking off the caliper or installing the pads? the brake light would be on if the fluid was low or the parking brake was on. did you disconnect any of the brake lines. air in the system will cause one side of the car to grab less than the other, and then pulling. if you cram the brake hard enough, does one tire lock up?(the ABS would wig out in this case)

I can tell you that you stumbled upon one of the rarer subarus. happens all the time. Oh gee, i think i'll go get a subaru, and you happen to stumble upon 'sust some subaru' that anyone else would have a hard time finding:slobber:. take care of the car and dont ruin it, dont do anything retarded with it. if you want an off roader or a ricer, i'm sure someone will trade! give the car due respect. dont expect to go bolting on ebay turbos either, because it doesnt work like that with older models. this car should teach you a thing or 2.....good luck with your find:)

any of the lift kit examples you see on this forum will fi the rx, it is the same underpinnings as the other variants.

good idea with the article, i will consider that. i do have drill bits and metric taps, and a helicoil kit if necessary

first thing, remove the nuts on the motor mounts where they go through the subframe. remove the 'dog bone' pitch stopper bar at the top of the trans. next, jack up the trans to raise the engine up out of its mount holes. remove the rubber timing plug on the engine bellhousing, and remove the 4 12mm bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. try at all costs to leave the TC with the trans, you DO not want it to come out with the engine because you will have an exxon valdez of ATF i recommend you watch this video, procedure is the same watch episodes 2 and 3

there are drain plugs on the heads, on the passenger side it will be on the front of the head, on the driver at the rear. check the bolt that holds the water piupe down where the lower hose connects. that can leak if the o-ring is bad, or the pipe is not inserted in all the way.

i suppose the car rund great until it warms up. and then it is hard to start? i would suspect the coolant temp sensor, try cleaning the terminals on it to see if it improves. the coolant temp sensor is on the back of the intake manifold near the turbo. you might have to remopve a heat shiled to see it. the CTS has the same style connector as the fuel injectors. hope this helps you

tom and tom, i got some kerosene and a plastic tub to clean the parts. The xt6 will be the most powerful subaru i have driven yet, except for the handful of times i got to drive a 2002 2.5 rs. we'll see how well the bolt comes out, i still have to get out in the garage, been busy working for the landlord, free rent!

i have a partially disassemble intake from a 92 fwd 5spd 2.2 legacy. i think they are red top. i can supply you with all 4 injectors and their fuel rails, if they will work for you. pm me with an offer if you can use them.

i am thinking if i drill in a little bit, i can remove what is left of the intake. the bolt brole off at the head, not the threads, so there will be a good inch of shank to grab onto and turn it out the rest of the way. but as GD said, this will be my own daily car, i can live with any potential problems. but ultimately, i would probably part the car and sell the motor(after i have my fun with it), so the repair is worth it in that regard. i'll admit i rushed the torque on that last bolt, already knowing better. i think the shank of the bolt is seized in the intake more so than the threads themselves i have a propane torch. how safe is it to heat the aluminum? i'm afraid i'll compromise the aluminum structure if i heat it too much.

if i had to guess, it woud be 17 or 18mm with a 1.0 thread. just a guess, though, its probably the same as an oxygen sensor bung

looks good to me. as long as the starter ring teeth are inside the bellhousing, you are ok. if you notice, the flexplate is inside the engine belllhousing as much as the edge of the torque converter is in the trans bell. i remember this from an ea82 and a 97 outback, it had me contemplating the same question as you, but everything bolted up and ran just fine

there were 2 carbs offered from the factory for ea81. the carter-weber, and the hitachi. the carter weber carbs were single barrel, and has a stud coming up from the carb mount on the intake. the weber modifications are meant for hitachi intakes, as far as the mounting adapters are concerned.

I am doing head gaskets on an 89 xt6. One of the intake bolts is broken, the frontmost on the driver side head. I have the rest of the intake off, just the bottom part is still attached to the head. I figures worst comes to worst, i;ll just bolt ut back up less the one bolt so long as the gasket holds up. There are LOTS of bubbles in the radiator when the car ran, and the oil was very milkshakey(car was low on coolant, it only seemd to milkshake after i added coolant, when i first got the car, oil looked just black before then) Right now the lower intake piece is still on the head, because it is stuck onto the broken bolt. I could make an attempt to drill out the bolt, but i am worried if i go too far, i wont be able to reassemble. I have run other engines with a missing/broken intake bolt and new gaskets, with no problems. For the sake of going back together, i think i will be best to leave it be. I have pics, but i need to use another computer that will detect my camera so i can post them. Also while i am at it, how often do ER27 heads crack in the water jacket. So far from what i can tell, the middle cylinders failed on both heads, and the passenger head came off like the bolts did not have much torque. The engine was overheated judging by melted timing belt covers. the head gasket itself looked ok. the gasket looked different than the normal ea82, its not the graphite faced one. I have done countless ea82's, but this is the first time i touched an er27 opinions?

soak the idle air control valve in Sea Foam. Just pour some in the breather tube and let it soak for about 15 minutes. usually the IAC gets carboned up and sticks open, when it should close once the car has warmed up.

your model of car will be generally referred to as an EA81(by engine) or a Gen 2 (2nd generation of the platform, 2nd bodystyle revision, 80-84 wagons, coupe, sedan, 79-87 brat and 89 hatchback(although continued overseas thru 1994)

maybe the carb is running on the choke circuit. make sure the anti-diesel solenoid is working. it shuts off fuel to the bowl when the car is not running. if you had no electrical going to the carb, it will run off the choke circuit and idle like crap, run very rich I had an 86 3door with carb issues. no amount of cleaning the carb helped, until i replaced the INTAKE GASKETS. now the car runs 99% correctly on old varnished gas

make sure the timing belts are not out of phase. the cams should be opposing eachother

what kind of car(year, model) and what kind of trailer/load are you towing? Consider tongue weight, you should not be exceeding 200-250 lbs tongue for the class of hitch available for subaru