MilesFox

use a box end off set wrench. or, you can remove the pitch bar bracket and get in there with a short 12mm socket, and but the tool against the bellhousing for leverage. once you break the torque, the bolts will thread out by hand

the center console on loyales with the tall console(automatic seatbelts) works good for my cup o coffee. with a regular console the spot between the shifter and the brake lever has always worked. i have always had the idea of using a grand am cupholder(the one that comes out to reveal the ashtray) and drilling a hole in the flat spot on the dash to hold a can of beverage. the flat spot on the dash will hold down a coffee mug just fine, so long as i dont drive like an idiot. a hot cup of coffee on the dash or in your lap is a perfect speed control device!

the struts are entirely different in an ea82. the spring is smaller in diameter, and outback springs might be too big to shove into the ea82 strut. the way around that is to swap in a whole legacy/impreza/xt6 knuckle and strut with the ea82 tophat. the rear strut is all the way different and you would have to go the accord spring or miata coilover conversion for the back. numbchux would be the kuy to answer your questions in that regard

remove the pitch bar at the top of the trans, and jack up the engine by placing the jack under the front diff portion of the trans. this will clear the framerails easier for you to try and pull the heads. plus, the motor will be in the position to come out of the car, if you go that far. use an offset wrench on the TC bolts. if you remove the pitch bar bracket you can get in there with a short 12mm socket and brace it against the bellhousing to break the torque. you can remove the top of the airbox, and the washer fluid reservoir for more clearance.

i drove 4500 miles on collapsed lifters. make sure to change the cam tower o-rings. if those are bad, no amounts of seafoam, mystery oil, or oil pump seals will cure it. the engine i had sounded like a ball peen hammer at idle, and replacing the cam tower o-rings with lifters from another motor with half the miles cured it. this was after replacing the oil pump and seal. this engine had 213,000 miles when i fixed it. it rolled over 200,000 on that 4500 mile road trip

the ac compressor can be swung out of the way without opening up the lines. unbolt the compressor itself from the mounting bracket

I would say yes. i have used a 1993 transmission in a 95 legacy, i was able to fit an xt6 knuckle in the 95 legacy. there may be differences with the rotor or caliper bracket, but just swap over the parts you need. there will be differences in the strut top bolt spacing. the knuckle end of the strut is the same. use the 1st gen struts, or at least the 1st gen strut tops on a 2nd gen strut(if you are using the strut too)

you will need some sort of press or special tool to press out the old wheel bearing. aside form that, you can remove the knuckle yourself, and pay for only the labor required to press the bearing, and reinstall the knuckle yourself. trickiest part will be the ball joint. you can undo the pinch bolt, or you can use a ball joint separator. you may want to get an alignment afterward. if you mark the location of the strut cs the knuckle(make a shadow with spray paint) you can come very close if not exact with the alignment.

once you have it apart the first time, if you leave the belt covers off, it will save you a lot of disassembly to remove the belt. you will have to remove the crank pulley to view the mark on the crankshaft sprocket.

i meant to just put tension on the cam pulley in the direction to take up slack on the drive side of the belt. you might get about 1/8" of a turn at most. i have seen numerous cars with pulley/belt grooves in the timing belt covers. the plastic warps over time. not necessarily a cause for alarm, i have seen it on several models with various mileages. do the right thing and just ditch the belt covers! if you are insistent on having belt covers, i have a complete set off a lo mile engine. make an offer if you want them, otherwise they may just go to trash if no one uses them up.

ii will be tearing into my xt6. i'll keep you in mind. not sure if i'm parting the interior, but if i do, you are welcome to all of it. send me an email so i can keep you in my contacts list, if you are interested in mine(if you don't find any locally) milesfox@yahoo.com

wheel bearings can be kind of vague. sometimes they wont even make any noise. one thing to watch out for is how your steering feels. when the bearings go on one side, the steering will react faster one direction and be dealyed the other direction. you will have different symptoms depending on whether the inner or outer bearing is failing. an inner bearing faulure is a little more obscure. good luck and let us know what you find out. i'll put my money on a wheel bearing

now if only the rest of the world will realixe that a blown headgasket is NOTthe end of the world...... congrats for taking the effort to fix it right. i see too many part-out subarus just because the headgasket went.

i have been eying up this car on craigslist. there is a dual range lever in the one pic.

should be m6x1.0 thread. take out one of your fender bolts and bring that with you to the hardware store, that will be the correct thread to find a nut for.

classic head gasket symptoms. you can get away with adding coolant daily, and run with the rad cap loose so it doesnt push all the coolant out(it lets the pressure escape) i had a 88 sedan with a blown head gasket and ran it with the cap loose. i would run the heat full blast, and when it got cold, it was time to add coolant. if the temp is spiking, let the car cool down before adding coolant or it will geyser all over you. leave the car run when you add coolant.

Wheel Bearing! sounds like you will need to get into a wheel bearing soon. make sure the cv axle nut is tightened to 145 ft/lb and that all the washers are there and installed correctly. if you removed the axle nut and washer, you will notice the washer is somewhat bowl shaped, with the bottom of the bowl against the nut, and the rim of the bowl against the cone washer. good luck, let us know what you find.

it will be the larger of the 2 clutch options. for 1987, some of the parts listings get confused with ea81's just tell your parts counter man you are looking for parts to a 1994 loyale 4x4 and that will eliminate the ea81 listings. all ea82 5spd 4wds used the same clutch disc regardelss of turbo or dual range. the smaller clutch is either for a FWD ea82, or a 4wd 4spd ea81

i have found that metric bolts in that pitch are harder to find for anything long enough. if you have trouble finding bolts in hardware stores, you best bet may be the junkyard. ea82 bolts will work as well

this is my method: once i install the belt, i grab the cam pulley and turn it by hand to take the slack out of the driven side of the belt(opposite of the tensioner, and i grab the tensioner and pull it up to hold the slack till its tightened down. be sure that the tensioner are bolted down, they are not spring loaded to hold the belt. the spring is just there to snap the pulley in place before TIGHTENING it up you will notice holes on the face of the cam pulleys. there is a special spanner tool you can pick up for this. its easy enough to make one if you get the idea. i have seen slack belts on running cars. you can always re-tighten the slack after the belt installation after the car has run on them for a while.

you will only need to remove the pins if you are replacing the shifter shaft seal. if you drop the driveshaft it will make it a lot easier. be prepared to catch some fluid. i recommend draining out the fluid before doing the work, and changing with new when you are done. if you remove the dogbone on the top of the trans, you can get the whole thing to drop down enough for easy access. its really not a whole lot to unbolt altogether.

when inserting the disty, try to 'feel' for a tooth between the gear it will want to go in. it's there, you can line up the rotor in the middle of the range you are one side or the other to. the rotor will point at the master cylinder list to the left of the clip or screw on the distributor cap.

is there an ea81 running spfi in this rig? make sure the timing marks are correct. the ea81 has marks on a different location on the flywheel than the ea82. if you are using the ea82 flexplate this will reflect ea82 timing. if this is the case, your timing must be some 30 deg off.

1. yes 2. all bolt on 3. they are all the same you need everything from the flywheel to the rear diff. this includes the driveshaft and trans mount, and its bolts. turbo trans will require you to get larger axles. any non turbo 5spd will be the same regardless of model(except for xt6)

go to a parts store and pull the haynes 1600 and 1800 manual off the shelf and it will be in chapter 2 along with torque specs.