MilesFox

clip them onto the lap belt buckle, then plug it in. the tab on th elab belt gpes in the lab belt buckle. like the straps on your carhartt bib overalls.

3.7 is typical of TURBO 5spds, which a lot of them are s/r. Some 3at automatics were 3.7, in turbo models, and some n/a 86 and earlier(correct me if i am wrong, but i had an 86 gl sedan with a 3.7 3at)

properly maintained you'll get 300,000 miles all day long. a long block can last well into 350,000 miles without a bottom end rebuild, so long as the motor has not been abused(overheated or ran out of oil) aside from subaru, my 78 toyota 1/2 ton camper has over 300,000 miles on its original water pump and timing chain so far that i know.

I must reply to general disorder.. A 3at will be fine, since there is no motion to the rear driveshaft when not in 4wd and.. if you remove the rear half of the driveshaft, and the car is in fwd, the front half of the driveshaft is stationary(not turning) because it is not rolling along with the rear axle, and is not being propelled by the trans. it merely acts as a plug to keep the fluids in wit this configuration

1986 BRAT, 287,000 mi, sold 92 subaru legacy, 250,000 miles, previous owner had head gasket and lost half the parts, i tossed in a 181,000 mi motor on the 250,ooo mi trans 1995 subaru lagacy, 258,000 mi, replaced 5spd trans, original motor and head gaskets in the older gars, the head gaskets will hold out als long as the cooling system does. single most reliable thing you can do is have a tip-top cooling system other than that, expect the occasional axle boot or wheel bearing i had an ea82 with over 300,000 miles, 1/8 inch crank play, ran and drove, used the heads on another motor there are a few 400,000+ mi examples out there depending on your region, rust will have a play in overall longevity. in the rust belt, the cars rust away before they quit running, will succumb to brake or fuel line failures if the rust is bad enough, on any make of car

i would suspect the wheel bearing. this is just my hunch, but my experiences with rotor noises, especially in tune wioth rotation, was wheel bearing related(on older models)

I have this car all back together and running again. I drove it downtown and back with no problem. I discovered that the intake gaskets were some generic gasket material or cardboard with silicone on them. One of the m was squished out between the water passage on one side. The AC bracket was bent from being installed with missing hardware. The pressure check ball on the oil pump was missing, pryed out for who knows what reason, and the oil pump was also missing the inner seal and the bolt on the very left side of it i found the white test plugs plugged in, and the timing was way low. seeing how this thing came apart, i was astonished it ran like this. motor makes some slapping noises mid rpm but that was pre-existing

subarus natuarally do not like to go into first gear while rolling. you are better to stop all the way (or lock up the brakes during aggressive driving) before engaging first. Driving like you describe will develop into grinding when trying to di first gear from a roll. This is my experience with all the subarus i have owned, avg 135,000 mi

did you replace the battery as well? a bad battery will stress a new alternator an cause it to fail premautirely. make sure the battery holds a charge and have it load tested as well

remove the rear half, and leave the front half there to keep the fluids in. just run in FWD and be good to go

the basic rule is use 4wd when wheel slitp presents itself. on dry pavenment, you will be ol if you are really doing some hard driving and throwing the car around, skidding, etc. But ots not good if you are just daily driving around town like grandma. I use 4wd in the rain on highways at speed, where any traction tension will be dispersed by hydroplaning, but not use it in the rain during in-town stop and go, since it will bind up. you can get away with using 4wd as much as you want as long as you are using it n a manner that will not create a bind, such as in town stop-go-turn type driving environments. so long as you understand this, you will be ok (using the car within its design parameters and not abusing that)

are you telling me or him? i have seen examples of 1600 gl. they are out there. i was guessing what he has

sounds like the problem at hand. the timing belts have been off, and perhaps this bolt was UNDERTORQUED. I had this happen to one of my own cars, the idler pulley backed out enough to snap the bolt. I was able to repair it over the side of the road, but this was a non-interference 1.8 mtor with no timing belt covers, was an east fix for me. supposing the valves are not bent, the repair should be no more than 2-3 hours labor and parts. parts alone for a new timing belts and tensioners are 225-300 bucks depending on the tensioner style. if this is the case then you should not have to pay more than 600 bucks for repairing this problem. the bolt itself is a simple metric 10x125. if the parts are new enough, then all you really need ios the bolt itself

spfi was with gl10 for 1986 fwd, more 'upscale' than a carburetor

check fuse #5 horn/clock/hazard as this is hot all the time and supplies the ecu otherwise remove the outer timing belt covers and turn the crank with a 7/8 or 22mm socket, check the alignment per the timing belty procedure http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

the carbureted one would not be a gl-10, it would be spfi. check to see if the rotor is turning on the cheaper one. if you got it running, expect to do timing belts and engine seals if the car sat for too long. otherwise the running and driving one is good to go.

hatchback gl 1.6 (1600 ea71) fwd 5spd STD?

And in the future, after the repairs, if the car will be parked for long periods of time, its a good idea to start it and let it warm up once every week or 2, this will keep everything in good flexible working order, keeps the seals fresh, and prevents anything from dryrotting and helps keep condensation out of the engine itself.

although the BAJA is anewer design of engine, the older subarus requred timing belt service at 60,000 miles. I would say that the issue with the timing belt breaking at such a low mileage is due to age alone, it is 5 years old, and plus the car had sat for 7 months before breaking. Possible causes to consider: 1. age of belt, when sitting for months, conformed to a rigid shape, would be stresses where it makes the tightest bend around its pulleys. 2. The water pump may be die for replacement. If the pulley is starting to drag, if the pump is seizing, it will burn up the belt. 3. Bad, worn, aged idler pulleys. The belt rides along a series of idler pulleys and a tensioner pulley. These pulleys are like skateboard wheels, and over time can get loose or seize up, causing a drag on the belt. When the car broke down, did you smell any burning rubber? this would clue a seized idler pulley. If the car got hot, or if the temp gauge was rising, this would clue a water pump failure I would put my bets on the car being parked for so long with the mileage it has. Honestly the belt should have held out to 80,000 miles or so Your mechanic quoted you so much to replace the engine. Far easier and should cost less for labor, less the cost of a new/used engine. But, a competent mechanic would install a new belt, and do a compression test to determine if a valve is bent. If the compression is good, then all you need is the new belts, idler pulleys, and its a good idea to do the water pump. Good opportunity to have the head gaskets re-torqued since the DOHC 2.5 engine is prone to head gasket failure right about 150,000 miles. If the valves are indeed bent(after doing a compression test with new belt) the head would come off, and the valves can be replaced for the same effort of having the heads rebuilt. This operation will require new head gaskets, and a replacement gasket has been revised with another layer(multi layer steel) as a workaround to the prepature head gasket failures from the factory. If you have all that work done, your motor will be rock solid til 300,000 miles, considering you have the timing belt serviced once again at 150,000 BTW i am doing a head gasket job including timing belt set and water pump for someone who was quoted 2600 bucks to do the same work, i am doing it for a 3rd of the cost, and parts cost me less then 400, including the head gaskets, engine seals, timing belt and pulleys, i already have a water pump anyway. I am just a subaur enthusiast in my garage. you should expect to pay 1500 to 2000 bucks to a competent mechanic. try to find someone with no more than 60 per hour labor rate. good luck, i hope this helps you

it will prabablr be too short, or at least an ea82 would be. at least the ea81 hosing would be more ideal. mount the radiator relative to the fitment of the lower hose

the 85-94 setup (ea82) is very similar, but instead of torsion bars with shocks, you have independent trailing arms and coilover strut to bear the load. the coilover would mount similarly to the shock in the picture you presented. either or, trailing arms would swap between both styles. you can do the 4wd suspension minus the rear diff, the suspensions are virtually the same except for the hubs themselves. Although General Disorder mentions the 4wd bearing is stronger, a 2wd bearing is much simpler to service, standard taper bearing on a spindle, whereas the 4wd has special socket to remove a collar and pressed bearing. if i was you i would consider Tomrhere's parts. I know him, he has the old style parts you will not find. I am from Fort Wayne area and we had all of the old subarus in the land, found all the ones that were left! even if toms parts are the 4wd version, you can still swap on 2wd parts or newer style coils and trailing arm, since any part you find may be subject to rust, and this gives you a broader field to obtain replacement parts to keep your trailer in service. good luck, and i would like to see your project when it is done, i have had this same idea for a trailer, and i think it would work for a Trike project as well:slobber: the '89-94' you are probably referring to is the Loyale, which is the same as the 85-89 gl wagon, coupe, sedan, xt. Unless you are referring to Legacy (89-94 1st gen, 95 and up...) have macpherson struts that you will have to build some sort of strut tower to fix the tophats and have traveling suspension, it would be a more complicated build and defeat the purpose of your original idea

i have worked on nothing BUT rusty cars. for the exhaust studs, just get new ones upon reassembly. you will get better torque that way and not risk stripping the threads trying to torque up the pipe. usually the threads on most bolts will be clean even if the hex is rusty. the bolys you would really have to worry about are longer ones that go through captive nuts, and the excess threads are exposed and cause the whole thing to jam up when the bolt is turned halfway out. use PB and just go back and forth to clear off the threads. usually with rusty cars its the small fender and body bolts that are most likely to break. I dont have too much of a bad time with the larger suspension bolts underneath on moderately rusty cars. if the exhaust stud nuts are so rusty they want to slip, you can try hammering on a 13mm socket as a last resort. avoid re-using the old ones if you can. i would say the most difficult bolts on a rusty soob will be the pinch bolt for the ball joint. Sometimes the ehad will break off and then you are resorted to drills and taps or sourcing another knuckle. its the sort of thing if the ball joint is not bad, leave it alone! also, with the car being rusty, its a good idea to flush out all the brake lines to keep them from rusting inside out, and remove all the calipers nd lubricate all the slide pins as good measure. the bellhousing hardware should come free easily. usually once you break the torque, they just spin out by hand, unless the threads are dirty with oil and dust its a good idea to use anti-seize on any hardware that comes off again for future maintenance.

check the body ground wire between the framerail and the engine casing

What i mean is using the bolts to draw together, but not force together, but draw evenly and squarely as the pilot shaft lines up. Little turns, tightening up and backing off as necessary to seat the pilot shaft, that's all

i have read that suzuki ATV wheels are 140x4. Maybe i am mistaken and they are 110, but i see where your idea comes from. and the old youtube vid with the hatch on mattrax, those are made for suzuki's so i wonder if that is what he is running? i have had the idea of using ATV wheels, just never had my hands on any to compare if this were the case, i suppose you could make a streey legal quad using subaru wheels(dot rated)