MilesFox

when the car is running and up to temp, and the thermostat is opened, remove the radiator cap and you should see the coolant moving around, and ideally doing a toilet swirl indicating a strong flow. rev the motor up and down and the coolant level should rise and fall as you get on and let off the revs. if you dont see much action there, condiser doing the water pump

you can install a length of hardline along the old line between the junction block and the flexible rubber line at the wheel. typically, for what i have seen on subarus, is the lines will get rusty and break out where the steel lines go through the plastic clips that secure them to the body. i had trouble doing a suspension swap on an old gl, and every time i changed one line, the next would blow out, and i ended up replacing all of the rear lines from the junction box(with factory fit used lines from a donor car. it would be worth your time to replace the other lines to while you are under there, or at least clean all the rust an crud off the lines where they go through the body clips.

the head bolts call for a series of 180 deg and 90 deg turns. I assume they stretch, i was able to re-use the ones i was doing. The old gaskets were 3 layer, and the new gaskets were 4 layers. you will want a 12 point socket since the hex on the bolts are 12 point. I used a torque wrench, but there is a gauge you can buy to measure the angles of your bolt turns, which i did not use. good luck. if you are used to ea82's, you will find the ej25 to be less complicated in that it is less overall parts to remove/install be real careful on the cam caps, since they can break or strip threads. If you are using a torque wrench for that, i would recomment a 3/8 dr that measures down to inch lbs. I had a big 1/2 dr torque wrench that only went down to 10 ft/lbs, so i just torqued them evenly by hand. does not take much torque, its more important you apply it evenly. the outer most cam cap(seal retainer) uses less torque than the caps themselves, consider that in your torque sequences

the 2.2's are pretty rock solid, and rarely blow their headgaslkets unless there is an underlying issue. I had a 1995 legacy with 258,ooo miles. with the mileage on the car, its most likely the original water pump going out, which usually holds out to 200-225,000 miles. dont worry about the head gasket unless you continue to drive with the bad water pump. you would be safe to go ahead and change the water pump and timing belt and have many trouble free miles. what you want to determine from the seller is if the car had a chance to over heat from low coolant due to the leaky pump. i would assume the problem just started, and the seller parked his car and put it up for sale rather than pay the cost of repairs.

check to see if you blew the #5 fuse (clock/horn/hazard) as this supplies constant voltage to the ecu. i see what you are doing the bypass switch, i have had to do the same thing on several cars. the least intrusive way to have started your car in an emergency would have been to bridge a wire between the battery and the solenoid tab on the starter to kick it over by hand. another way is to eliminate the neutral safety in the shifter harness. if you pull up the shifter cover plate, you will see a connector, and the middle 2 wires have the largest gauge. you can splice these wires together to get the car to start with the key. its a common problem on automatic subarus, and is never the starter itself. good luck!

i will bet you a dollar the coolant temp sensor is bad or corroded. its located behind the intake near the turbo itself, and is monted on the water crossover casting at the back of the intake. at least clean up the terminals ands see if this makes a difference

first things fiorst, make sure there is no air bubble in the system(if you had changed the fluids or hoses recently) and make sure the thermostat is functioning. if the car is running warm at idle, sii if the electric fan os working. Also, feel the radiator to see if it is warm a bad radiator will have cool spots where the coolant is not flowing if the upper radiator hose is cooler than the heater hoses, the thermostat may be stuck close. hope this helps you. a new radiator is worth the investment for reliability oh, and make sure the water pump is working effectively(if the radiator seems fine)

clip them onto the lap belt buckle, then plug it in. the tab on th elab belt gpes in the lab belt buckle. like the straps on your carhartt bib overalls.

3.7 is typical of TURBO 5spds, which a lot of them are s/r. Some 3at automatics were 3.7, in turbo models, and some n/a 86 and earlier(correct me if i am wrong, but i had an 86 gl sedan with a 3.7 3at)

properly maintained you'll get 300,000 miles all day long. a long block can last well into 350,000 miles without a bottom end rebuild, so long as the motor has not been abused(overheated or ran out of oil) aside from subaru, my 78 toyota 1/2 ton camper has over 300,000 miles on its original water pump and timing chain so far that i know.

I must reply to general disorder.. A 3at will be fine, since there is no motion to the rear driveshaft when not in 4wd and.. if you remove the rear half of the driveshaft, and the car is in fwd, the front half of the driveshaft is stationary(not turning) because it is not rolling along with the rear axle, and is not being propelled by the trans. it merely acts as a plug to keep the fluids in wit this configuration

1986 BRAT, 287,000 mi, sold 92 subaru legacy, 250,000 miles, previous owner had head gasket and lost half the parts, i tossed in a 181,000 mi motor on the 250,ooo mi trans 1995 subaru lagacy, 258,000 mi, replaced 5spd trans, original motor and head gaskets in the older gars, the head gaskets will hold out als long as the cooling system does. single most reliable thing you can do is have a tip-top cooling system other than that, expect the occasional axle boot or wheel bearing i had an ea82 with over 300,000 miles, 1/8 inch crank play, ran and drove, used the heads on another motor there are a few 400,000+ mi examples out there depending on your region, rust will have a play in overall longevity. in the rust belt, the cars rust away before they quit running, will succumb to brake or fuel line failures if the rust is bad enough, on any make of car

i would suspect the wheel bearing. this is just my hunch, but my experiences with rotor noises, especially in tune wioth rotation, was wheel bearing related(on older models)

I have this car all back together and running again. I drove it downtown and back with no problem. I discovered that the intake gaskets were some generic gasket material or cardboard with silicone on them. One of the m was squished out between the water passage on one side. The AC bracket was bent from being installed with missing hardware. The pressure check ball on the oil pump was missing, pryed out for who knows what reason, and the oil pump was also missing the inner seal and the bolt on the very left side of it i found the white test plugs plugged in, and the timing was way low. seeing how this thing came apart, i was astonished it ran like this. motor makes some slapping noises mid rpm but that was pre-existing

subarus natuarally do not like to go into first gear while rolling. you are better to stop all the way (or lock up the brakes during aggressive driving) before engaging first. Driving like you describe will develop into grinding when trying to di first gear from a roll. This is my experience with all the subarus i have owned, avg 135,000 mi

did you replace the battery as well? a bad battery will stress a new alternator an cause it to fail premautirely. make sure the battery holds a charge and have it load tested as well

remove the rear half, and leave the front half there to keep the fluids in. just run in FWD and be good to go

the basic rule is use 4wd when wheel slitp presents itself. on dry pavenment, you will be ol if you are really doing some hard driving and throwing the car around, skidding, etc. But ots not good if you are just daily driving around town like grandma. I use 4wd in the rain on highways at speed, where any traction tension will be dispersed by hydroplaning, but not use it in the rain during in-town stop and go, since it will bind up. you can get away with using 4wd as much as you want as long as you are using it n a manner that will not create a bind, such as in town stop-go-turn type driving environments. so long as you understand this, you will be ok (using the car within its design parameters and not abusing that)

are you telling me or him? i have seen examples of 1600 gl. they are out there. i was guessing what he has

sounds like the problem at hand. the timing belts have been off, and perhaps this bolt was UNDERTORQUED. I had this happen to one of my own cars, the idler pulley backed out enough to snap the bolt. I was able to repair it over the side of the road, but this was a non-interference 1.8 mtor with no timing belt covers, was an east fix for me. supposing the valves are not bent, the repair should be no more than 2-3 hours labor and parts. parts alone for a new timing belts and tensioners are 225-300 bucks depending on the tensioner style. if this is the case then you should not have to pay more than 600 bucks for repairing this problem. the bolt itself is a simple metric 10x125. if the parts are new enough, then all you really need ios the bolt itself

spfi was with gl10 for 1986 fwd, more 'upscale' than a carburetor

check fuse #5 horn/clock/hazard as this is hot all the time and supplies the ecu otherwise remove the outer timing belt covers and turn the crank with a 7/8 or 22mm socket, check the alignment per the timing belty procedure http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

the carbureted one would not be a gl-10, it would be spfi. check to see if the rotor is turning on the cheaper one. if you got it running, expect to do timing belts and engine seals if the car sat for too long. otherwise the running and driving one is good to go.

hatchback gl 1.6 (1600 ea71) fwd 5spd STD?

And in the future, after the repairs, if the car will be parked for long periods of time, its a good idea to start it and let it warm up once every week or 2, this will keep everything in good flexible working order, keeps the seals fresh, and prevents anything from dryrotting and helps keep condensation out of the engine itself.