MilesFox

If you only knew the sound of a subaru engine in stereo. go with narrow pipes with a true dual, say 1.5 after the header. Do an x pattern or a balance pipe

Use muffler flanges. I made gaskets to a muffler on an 84 lincoln town car work for header gaskets on an ea82. you should be able to find something. make true dual exhaust .

this looks like a page out of my 3-door build. Stone guard is the shizzle

I sho will bring the 3door. Liz can drive a trashwagon as she is currently driving it for jimmy johns. I would make Schmaus go and drive the 3door for me while i drive the xt. If you had a way to bring both the loyale and the ski wagon, that would be 5 cars if scott brings his. We should try to do a local meet again. If desmond is not at the shop we might have to do the garage agian or someplace public like fuel cafe and maybe a cruise. There is some interesting driving under the hoan bridge if you dont mind dusty roads and railroad tracks.

with the spfi intake the fuel could drop out of suspension with too smooth surfaces. If your fabricator knows what he is doing, you will want to rough the insides or invent something that induces turbulence in the air charge. the ea82 hitachi carb has larger bores than the ea81, in regards to using an ea82 carb intake. you migh have some clearance issues to work around with either option If you tig guy is crative, cut the head side runners off on an spfi and build off it for a carb. If you fit an spfi intake onto the ea81, you could consider swapping the harness and ecu for an spfi swap.

It's nice that you could get that apart to detail it. I had to abandon this on my 3door to prevent stripping the phillips heads. At least i only broke 1 6mm bolt on the 3door. It looks like this one has not rusted the small bolys; everything is coming apart nicely

check the ground cable where it goes on the bracket to the bellhousing bolt. Check that bolt to make sure it is tight, and that this bracket is present. check the bottom of the starter for a 17mm nut and make sure it is there. there is a 12mm nut holding the battery terminal on the positive. The original terminal can stretch to where the bolt is all the way threaded and is still loose. Try a push down and turn technique when puttint the terminal on the battery post. get a brass marine terminal with a wing nut and connect it to the eyelets o the original wire. if all else fails, replace one or both of the cables.

use the ea82 lower hose and the ea81 upper hose. the angle will be weird between the radiator and the ea81 water pump. If you can find a flex hose that would be best. Get a longer one so you can get a 360 deg loop to make the connection without a kink. take the old hose in to size up. you can make it fit. I have made them fit. dont forget to ground the radiator to the body and swap thermoswitches if you have an electric fan.

yours would have a 23 spline axle for either 5mt or 3at non turbo model. the 25 splines are on turbo gl and gl-10 turbo or 4eat.

I hear tell that there will be a sheboygan dealer meet at the new subaru/toyota dealership there. This will be around august. How many drivers can we bring for me to have 4 gars go, and both the loyale and the ski wagon. tom, which car are you bringing to dealer meets?

forget the code. You will get the code when the key is on and the engine is not running anyway. if there is no spark, the little transistor thingee on the coil bracket may be your problem. be sure that the coil is wired correctly. check fuse #5 as it supplies the ecu. the yellow wires are negative, the black wires are positive on the coil. IF the car quit when the timing belt broke, the timing belt was the problem. don't spend the $$$ on another disty to have it still not work. get a piece of lumber and butt it to the ears on the disty and tap it with a hammer to work it back and forthh. There is an o-ring on the shaft that gets hard and makes it stick. If you are installing the belts yourself, pay attention to crank rotation so you don't trick yourself into thinking the valves are bent and the engine is done because the cams are out of phase. Don't let a hired mechanic make that mistake, either, as it is a common mistake with non-soob oriented mechanics. If the belts were installed wrong, you will still get spark. Check to make sure that the rotor is turning! there is a set screw that can fall out mimicking a timing belt failure.

how much $$$ wa it for all those bolts? I have a good $100 in m6 bolts on my 3door

consider the engine temp sensor on the back of the water passage pipe under the intake.

for 1985 gl-10, assuming it is spfi, will have the long water pump. the easiest way to twell is if the warer pump has studs the ulley slides over, it is the long one (110mm). If the puley itself has studs in it, and the pulley bolts onto the pump, then you have the short pupm (105mm). the short pump is typically on turbo models with the inboard alternator and outboard AC

if you find a carb motor, swap the whole carb intake and the distributor. look at 85-and 86 gl/dl the engine you have has more compression than a carb model. It is really simple. 85-86 and some 87 have carbs with mechanical distys save the headlight assemblies and bezels as those are hot sellers. I am interested in a set myself, but i need $$$

if you find a carb motor, swap the whole carb intake and the distributor. look at 85-and 86 gl/dl the engine you have has more compression than a carb model. It is really simple. 85-86 and some 87 have carbs with mechanical distys

I think it was the last time i dove mine. Don miller was the last time i drove it before swapping, and the last time i drove it for the 2nd don miller after the swap. It still has the same gas in the tank. I drove it once for jimmy johns. By the end of may i will be getting her out again. As far as subaru alliance goes, i have been following the sewi nasioc's facebook. at least to see if anything will be happening.

no mods to the brakes are necessary, as they are the same parts between 2wd and 4wd. a FWD ea82 gas tank already has the provisions for the rear diff, no need to swap. This is different than what you may have read regarding ea81. you will have to fab a mount for the carrier bearing. you will have to drill holes for the rear diff hanger. If you get a hang-up, ask me, as i have done several FWD<4WD swaps.

sounds like what you described is the terminal itself. The cable should be ok. Nothing else will fit as nicely.

it originally had an ea81 or ea71 engine, 1800, 1600) but if you have the option to build, then you will find the swap recipes all over this forum. do the ej22 motor and a 5spd dual range with 5 lug swap or redrilled hubs or 6 lug wheels. Lift enough to clear the tires you are using. Think of the car as a set of legos you can build with from other subarus.

It sounds like Conway Twitty riding a pony backwards while hollarin' words like honky tonk and hootenanny

exhaust shield rattle? floppy trans mount causing the driveshaft to rub somethings. Twangy like high pitch, rattle, or country music?

Have you truied the brass marine terminal? it installs on the eyelet on the battery cable. The original ones stretch out and don't hold if tightened u so many times. Subaru cables are known to fail by breaking internally after all troubleshooting measures were taken. Could your problem be starter related? What symptom do you have that behooves you to change the cables. If it is just visible corrosion, i would go with the marine terminal. Did you keep your original wires?

engine temp sensor? this part is the bane of ea82t performance(or running correctly, i should say) You might be able to cross reference with nissan for this part.

ea82 fo sho. you will see the engine stamping near the alternotor on the fornt of the block. rest assured at 94 hp, the torque value is more! dont be afraid to wind this engine up. It performs best at rpms 2500-5500 roms. 3000-3500 is a good cruise rpm on the highway. 2000-2500 rpm is good cruse rpm in-town 30 mph surface streets. 1500 or lower rpms is dogging the engine and wasting efficiency and performance, and beating on the lower end. If you can find the owners book, it will state that it does not recommend driving at rpms lower than 1500 spfi engine is pretty trouble free. If you have perfromance issues or doggey performance, chances are it will the the engine temp sensor, just so you know for future reference.