MilesFox

you could consider this in an area that is flooded with them and no road salts, but in other places, they all rusted away, or never sold when they were new. sometimes it's easier to swap what you have than to import a car from across the country find a whole legacy for a few hundred and there you go. you still need a bellhousing adaptor or some fab skills

that is just how it works. get 2 wheels up off the ground and no go, whether it be diagonal or both the same side.

in the usa from the drver's perspective. the left side of the engine is the right side when looking at it head on. left and right always assume perspective facing forward with the car.

I bet you have the plug wires on backwards or whatever with the backfiring in the carb. I have done it. i bet you have 2 and 4 backwards. rotation is counterclockwise. firing order is 1-3-2-4. #1 cyl is front right and #3 front left(driver perspective)

And this is why we run coverless open belts because you are more likely to fix your car on the side of the rad than you are to be stranded over a broken timing belt. That is, if you enjoy being able to do it like so. You would only have spare parts in your trunk if you were accumulating subaurs and parts. It becomes a habit, eventually.

you can opt for the u-haul heavy duty model. generally you have the fluid coming back from the trans go to the cooler first, then through the radiator and it enters the trans at mean operating temp.

I like the idea of oiling the thread as your list depicts evolution of the torque sequence over trial and error across years. try to get the bolt snug first and then 1/4 turn with the breaker bar. you will have to turn through any slack in the driveline before she torques up. Although i can see these huge torque factors being effective, i would think that if you had it apart again, the thread is stretched and will not hold torque the next time, hence pulleys coming loose even more. I use the 1/2" electric impact to just snug it on after wrecnching it by hand. I will go out of my way to remove the radiator or pull the engine as it usually is easier to do critical repairs if you just pull the engine first.

you can run 2 matching tires that may be different than the original size mounting them diagonal from eachother as the front and rear diff will soak up rotational difference and the center coupling stays constant with a matching tire on each axle. the torque transfer will assume the ratio of the smaller tires. You can do this if you are just buying 2 new tires in the original size but don't want to drop the bones for 4 tires and not ruin your transmission.

check the coil wires for polarity. you should have voltage on both terminals. the black wire is positive and the yellow wire is negative. check ground from engine block to frame. check the ign relay above the steering column. do you have a click when you turn the key?

I bet you knocked loose a hose. check the diaphragm on the transmission and see if one of the 2 hoses has come disconnected. Check the other end of them at the solenoid on the driver side firewall. check if the nipple broke of either end. check from the solenoid the the vacuum canister. check the hose from the vacuum canister to the intake manifold. Here's a tip: Turn on the heater and select defrost or floor heat. If the air comes out of the dash vents, then you do have a disconnected vacuum hose from the intake or canister. It is common to knock a hose loose doing something as simple as spark plug wires.

fair price between 1500 and 2000 if there is no rust. offer 1750

check the main fusible link and make sure it has power. the fuse link box connects to the battery post, check that. check the horn/hazard/clock fuse as it should be hot all time. then check the ign switch itself if the car is not turning on.

i would like to see the results if you tried that! i don't currently have a spare wagon to chop, and my road signs are reserved for my cargo van rear windows.8

i will bet the flat washer on the axle nut is on backwards. the washer is concave and the concave side meets the hub and the convex side meets the nut. if this is on backwards, the nut backs off causing slack i the bearing, eventually causing he bearing to fail of not corrected. if the washers are on correctly, suspect a loose nut (tq 145 lb/ft). otherwise suspect the bearings

" subaru timing belts for smart people" follow all the steps. there will be a total of 2 whole crank rotations. twice through all the belt rotations, then set your timing mark.

make them wide enough for ea82 axles with ea81 outer ends, or ea82 knuckle if you can make a strut top or sleeve. for the rear make it ea82 width with double doj axles.

Traded out of rust? I have been appreciating ford lately with swapping out a 95 econoline 350 w/5.8l with a conversion van and it reminds me of subaru as the power doors were plug and play onto the cargo van.

install the seals dry. if you used brake cleaner on the engine while installing you ruined the seal and it has swelled. use only carb cleaner around seals. out of the package, the seal does fit; yuo sort of have to tuck it in there. i use a dab of ultra grey on the corner and between the ears to hold it in place while installing the pump.

he is probably thinking or looking at the distributor rotor turn 180 as you crank the motor 360 to do the other belt. you can pit both belts on at once if the other cam is loaded and held in place and the rotor is on the #1 with the flywheel on the III mark i can agree about mud on the timing belt, but unless you are taking a mudbath every day it would be no compromise. Imagine driving through mud up the the timing belt with covers on. Will mud get inside? How long would it stay in there afterward. This would be conducive to driving in mud every single day.

I have had the idea of using a road sighn hi-tensile aluminum and curving it to the shape of the rear window and cutting it out, making the sign replace the window on its track and be operable still. do this and panel out the 1/4 windows and replace the seats themselves with folding bulkheads and build storage into the rear floorbord when the seat is down. I vote for this idea if you go for it. to look proper, if you made it a true 2-door, you should elongate the front door and move the b pillar back and base the proportions off an ea81 brat/hatch door vs 4door or 2-dor impeza vs 4-door for proportion.

all of it would be good from a donor car, and yes, you will have to replace the steering rack with a power one. it is a bolt on swap if you have the parts from the donor. just a new belt will do for new parts. or better yet new bushings for the steering rack, and tie rod ends

It won't prevent you from driving, but it *could* slide off if you had some extreme articulation of the suspension and hyperextension of the axle.

you should never have to open up an ej block unless it is a known failed block with broken rods or holes in the pistons, etc, obvious rod knocks, milkshake from a failed head gasket. any used block is good with up to 300,000 miles tip of advice: do not replace the rear main seal if it is not failed. it will more likely outlast a replacement seal that is tricky to install properly.

swap the flywheel from the old engine and the longer bolts that go to it. there is one vacuum tee on the engine that went to the vacuum modulator on the new engine. just plug it off. it is located near the timing mark plug/pitch bar mount