MilesFox

If you are using the o deg mark for the timing belts, that is your problem. The timing belt aligns with the III mark on the flywheel. This represents all the pistons are at the center of their bore. Do the timing marks first, then bring the flywheel to the 0 deg mark to do your ignition. 1-3-4-2 counter clockwise. search 'ea82 timing belt' for the proper procedure. the only other thing i can think of for the timing marks being off on the flywheel is if you have an ea81 flywheel on an ea82 engine or vice versa

^^^^this^^^. and mount the tires diagonally until you get proper match.

Greetings from a hoosier native:grin:

Maybe you have a bent rear trailing arm or something wonky with the suspension geometry. These cars have a fixed alignment more or less.

mount the mismtached pairs diagonally until you get all 4 same size tires. go with 185/70's but 13's are getting harder to find these days.

Sounds like a combination of low coolant and or a stuck thermostat. There must be enough volume of coolant to make the thermostat open. Fill coolant thru the upper radiator hose to fill the block, then fill the radiator. Maybe even add collant thru the heater core hoses. The noisy speedp sounds like a bad cable, or the cable has pulled away from the speedo head(easy to do from under the hood fiddling with stiff) and is only partially engaged (square peg on the end of the speedo cable) Once you accomplish getting all the coolant full, observe for external leaks, or bubbles in the radiator that could indicate a HG failure. Be aware of any sweet smelling steam from the tail pipe.

Sorry to assume, but younger folks don't know you have to pump the gas and set the choke, if they even know what a carburetor is. It's a lot like people who try to pump the gas on a fuel injected car. Try peressing the pedal to the floor once beofre starting. the fuel pump relay is mounted above the steering column. On the carb model, it kicks on for a second at key on, and then will continue to run once it seed a signal from the rotating distributor. There is also a fuel pump control unit. you may notice a buzzing sound under the kood with the key on. this is normal I had someone try in vain to start one of my soobs back in the day. At least 5 0r 6 times. I mentioned the choke thing and it fired right up for me when i demonstrated. It's a lot like people who try to pump the gas on a fuel injected car.

The worst that can happen if the crack enlarges enough is a dropped valve seat. You can stake the crack near the valve seat to keep them from popping out.

The subaru is the one car you can find as a jewel in the dust because the last guy didn't know what it was. The platform is pretty modular in design and is built like legos. You can work on the whole car with 3 tools.

Check the radius rod bushings. Once they go, they allow the wheel to move forward of the suspension causing a torque steer.

I remember helping someone with a stuck brake switch causing the shift to be locked at a gas station on 90's gmc jimmy.

you might find it to be the fuel filler neck. worth a look before getting that involved.

This looks relatively normal and is indicative of normal operation.

Dude, on schmaus's engine we had rust in 2 of the cylinders, pitting, and rotation resistance with the block that we assembled with after removing the heads. We managed to polish out the rust with PB blaster and the rings doing the cutting. So far the car runs great and does not smoke, for an engine that anyone else may have just thrown away. Yours looks better, ours looks like it sat outside with standing water in the cylinders.

my buddy has a 95 that the fan runs constantly and she is a hard start when cold. this is compounded by being a franken motor, although it runs fine when warm. I told him to replace the engine temp sensor. This will be the one with the brown plug under the intake. the other single spade terminal is for the gauge. The brown one is for the ECU

You should have done this before replacing the rear main seal. If the rear main is leaking badly, it's because it was replaced. The rear main seldom fails, but is also tricky to install to where it will hold up. yes, do the cam and front main seals for sure.

she brake switch on the pedal may be stuck if you do not find any electrical issue. do a ninja flip and take a look

I would predict that the water pump is beginning to seize or the impeller has disintegrated or corroded or is not very efficient. If you smell burning rubber this is the case. More often than not, a timing belt failure on an ej22e is due to a water pump seizure. If the compression checks out and you dont have bubbles in the coolant, i would explore this possibility. a factory original water pump can hold out past 200,000 mi but the ones that i have seen fail have failed around the 225 mark. I can account for 2 ej22's that failed the timing belt die to a failed water pump. the first one was good to go with used parts when the belt finally let go, and the other one needed head gaskets from being operated this way until the belt melted and de-laminated. you should remove the belt covers and see if there are traces of rubber on the water pump pulley while servicing the t-stat

there is a 4eat on the craigs that came from a 95 legacy up off brown deer road. that would be a direct fit. The tailhousings are different with later models, at least so with a 99 vs a first gen. we just picked off parts fro that 95 and those dudes should still have the trans.

the snow itself will cause a decrease in mpg's

I have had the spring compressor fail on me twice. The first one broke the first time, and the 2nd one broke after a few swaps. It was a bit scary to use and awkward t mount on subaru springs. the corded impact has served me well for a good 5 years already and the only thing about it was the brush popped out once, and i had to tighten the screws that hold the head together. I had a palm sander fail after 15 minutes when the rotating assembly ate itself. I had 2 angle grinders, the first one worked great before it got stolen. the 2nd one failed after a short period of use. Hand tools have been pretty good to me, but i have cracked a few of the sockets, including the impact sockets with very rusty and jank nuts and bolts on old subarus. The sawzall i had stripped the worm gear out the first week i had it. Now i have a real milwaukee cordless sawzall that spanks the pants on harbor freight. Harbor freight tools are great if you use them within their capacity, and are cheap to replace. I decide what i am using by which will happen first; will the tool break or get stolen. Generally tools get stolen before they break, as i have proven to myself with 2 instances of one tool out of an $800 milwaukee m18 lithium set when my angle grinder walked away from a jobsite and the hackzall got stolen with a whole van. The welder there has worked well for what it is, but best know how to use a crappy welder for it to work well. a better welder requires less skill for a good weld. But i have decided i am done with cheap tools for anything i have to rely on to go to work with. although a tool can be replaced for cheap or free, it is terribly unproductive to have it fail in the middle of a job. +++1 on the engine crane and the floor jacks. Pretty solid for the price. make sure to get them on sale. worst comes to worst you may have to add jack oil if it has sat around too long or you have been using it for over 5 years. I still have my crane after 7 years and have pulled more than 25 subaru engines with it.

your symptoms sound like it could be a coolant temp sensor. easy to fix if you can find the part. The car has value being a western car with no rust. Therefore doing the ball joints will not be as difficult as a rust belt car(bolts breaking off) You could attempt the work yourself if you had the time and enough basic tools. The fuel pump is easy as it is in-line and is replaceable with a generic ford rear tank pump. But first, if the car is doggy once warmed up, or hard to start until it cools off, i would look at the engine temp sensor, the one on the thermostat housing with the 2 wire green connector(not the same as the dash gauge)

I have a dual range trans at the shop with no car to put it in. I will have to remove it from the shop but have no where to put it! If you find swapping that easier, make an offer and take all the spare driveshaft and clutch with it. the whole unit is complete enough for a 2wd<4wd swap. This will be likely the one of one or 2 in the region for local pick up. Otherwise if you rebuild you have the option to play with gearsets. I also have a driveshaft modified to fit an ej trans if you go that route. good luck

I was angling to buy this car the guy who bought it

I was reading this post and realized this is the car that is sold already. frankenswaps are the raze these days with Shcmaus ending up with parts to build one by accident or luck.