MilesFox

the dealer does not keep key codes tied to vin before 1995. a competent locksmith should be able to cut a key by inspecting the tumblers. you can defeat the steering lock by drilling out hte lock pin, and you can pull the ign switch and start with a screwdriver. you can turn on the car by jumping a wire from the + coil terminal to the + battery, then jump the starter. The steering lock is what you have to defeat if you want to drive the car with no key. There is no shifter lock-out. What can you do? all or none of the above, depending on if you have to drive your car or not until you get a key.

sorry to hear that. I'll put the word locally that its for sale for that price. I may have my brown wagon sold soon, among other things.

can you get a wrench on the captive nut to hold it still? otherwise, a sawzall or angle grinder to cut the bolt, if you can drive it out of the bushing. You can replace the captive nut with a regular nut, maybe tack weld it. You may want to use a nylon insert locknut to keep it from backing out.

maybe that diff ring had been screwed with. Good luck with the car. I will drop a hint that the guy who bought my engine might be interested in the xt for a premium, and if this comes true, i would make an offer on your car that reflects the asking price. I need something that is appropriate to haul my child around if i have to do errands while the woman is at work. the rusty GL with a broken window is not wise. This is just an idea at this time.

if you have the original radiator, you should be able to swap the top or the bottom steel parts as the core itself should be the same. There are both brass and plastic radiators for the legacy, with the arlier ones being dual core. You could give that a shot and see if it works and saves you time/runaround.

Please refer to this video The video shows hi-temp copper rtv since this is what was available, but ultra-grey is a more appropriate product. as this is what i described. thanx

Sounds a little extreme. A little water wont hurt an alternator. you can replace it for 5 bucks. or 20. or whatever you want to pay for one:dead:

I go about using engine brite and or simple green, and regular hose when i am washing the car. I will take the time to use a rag and a bucket of soapy water to handwash the framerails, firewall, and strut towers. I leave the engine run when doing the final rinse until it dries. It's not the water that will harm the electronics, but the high pressure from a wand will get in places water wont by itself.

if you got room to keep it, try to accumulate a little more scrap to take with it. steel will weigh up quickly. take it in with your cans or curb finds. I always kept cans when i did office cleaning like you do. just an idea. otherwise, the scrapyard is better than leaving it out for someone else to take.

They will probably take it as sheet steel. If you can break it down some, you might get aluminum breakage for anything you can separate from the whole unit, such as the tailshaft housing. The clutch baskets in the rear are worth selling if they are not grooved, and sometimes the basket shears off the shaft, so someone may need it.

hand tight with a screwdriver/10mm nut driver and no more. too much torque will split the gasket. I always use ultra grey on the engine side of the gasket.

that and or snap the timing belt. Be aware of burning rubber smell

the easiest way is to get small denominations. easy to buy, easy to barter. Think of it as a 5 to 10 year outlook. You should probably pay attention to the subjects of inflation, the federal reserve, and fiat currency to understand the reason in doing so. Especially the global economy and events outside of the USA and economies that hold the dollar in reserve. have fun and good luck.

It would be novel, but impossible to drive.

I would suggest to make sure the thermostat is the proper 195 deg oem unit. But the CTS controls ithe IAC you may be getting an IAC code because the CTS is out of spec. You will always get a crank sensor code if you pull the codes when the engine is not running.

Sand paper and spray paint perhaps? is it rusted through?

oil in the intake and maf is probably due to clogged pcv valcve and or line. Spark plug wires can be finicky. Inspect the inside of the distributor carp. replaicng it may be your fix

i will let him know. thanx!

I have to disagree. Head bolts do not need to be replaced as they are not TTY stly. that is why there are fat washers. Do pay attention of the orientation of the washers, and they are spring type like the axle nuts are, concave side down. this is what torques up. Replacing the bolts is an unneccessary cost. The torque is applied in a 3 step procedure. Any compromise to the torque would be the threads in the block, as too extreme of an overheat will de-grain the aluminum. The haynes manual describes the torque procedure. The diagrams in the haynes book are straight from the FSM the 3 middle bolts are shorter than the rest of them, as they sit deeper in the head. pay attention to this so you don't torque down and bottom out using the wrong bolt, and same with using a short one where the long one goes so it doesn't rip out the thread. the consensus will agree with me.

I was thinking that is a made my post. I almost mentioned it.

graham needs a trans for his 91 legacy if you guys know where one is.

there should be a copper strip behind the plastic wheel that acts as a variable resistor of sorts.

I have a complete 5spd dual range swap with all parts included $300 in milwaukee, wi

Use an ultra-grey or 3 ond or similar 'grey' anaerobic sealant for the cam tower where it meets the head. DO NOT USE SILICONE RTV OR IT WILL FAIL

If your MAF is whack, i have a spare that came with my car. If you think you might need it, make me an offer. If you are looking on the http://www.subaruxt.com forums, look up 'monsterwedge' to see my car as it was posted by the previous owners.