JPX

Save your money - go for the contacts first! Since you can occassionaly get this thing running, make your next trip to the alternator repair shop. They usually rebuild alternators and starters......and they will most likely have the contacts you need. They will look like this when you open up the solenoid: Worn contacts at 89,000 miles ................and the $7 replacement contacts: So even after the replacement, 51,000 miles later on the contacts, this is what they looked when the car hit 140,000 miles.

My original battery was still going well after 7 years.....but I changed it out during a dubious period in my troubleshooting that turned out to simply be worn solenoid contacts on my starter. Not only did that battery serve my car well, but it was hauled across a lake in my lap on a jetski for 10 miles to jump a dead boat battery. Luckily it did not end up falling into the water . Alternator......I'm still thinking alternator.

I seem to recall some type of relationship between the ABS light and when the alternator is about to die. Might want to check out your alternator next - a lot easier to work on than tearing apart the hub/brakes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68345&highlight=abs+alternator

Must have been the influence GM had on Subaru.:-\ GM full size trucks went to smaller filters on their engines. The oil pan design surrounds 270 degrees of the circumference of the filter AND the filter is recessed AND is now shorter. This makes most oil filter wrenches completely ineffective. My favorite engines to change filters on are the 1700cc Type 4 VW aircooled engine and the Subaru EJ22 engines (assuming no splash guard is in the way). Super easy to reach without jacking up car, burning hands and without making a huge mess.

Bingo - this is exactly what I was thinking too. Unfortunately, I had already condemned the battery. It was 6 years old but seemed to be fine. But when the starter was having trouble, I assumed it was the battery and replaced it. I almost threw my starter away when it clicked, but did not turn. I figured the windings and the motor were probably fine. So the solenoid contacts were my next hunch.....fortunately the contacts were cheap to replace and I didn't have to throw away the starter at all! If only I had checked the contacts BEFORE chucking the battery.... This (at 89,000 miles) Plus This (replacement contacts at $7) Plus 51,000 more miles equals this (at 140,000 miles): The contacts get worn out over time - more so if you start and stop the car a lot (commute, pizza delivery, multiple troubleshooting starts). You absolutely must check these contacts out BEFORE condemming the entire starter.

Dealer advantage is OEM parts - cost for oil changes has narrowed considerably between dealer and "changers". So take advantage of dealer coupons and promotionals. Two bad experience stories come to mind on the "oil changer" places: 1. Cousin had an engine seize after the filter was not installed correctly and the oil pumped out. Bummer the oil light on this Triumph didn't work to catch it in progress. 2. My dad had to reweld and re-tap the thread on the drain plug after they overtightened the plug and cracked/stripped the threads. Then he :-\ took it to them again and they broke the threads AGAIN. Oil pan needed to be replaced after that. But that's not the worst these places have done. Check this out: http://www.nbc4.tv/news/9265933/detail.html If you do use these places, you have to watch them like a hawk. Go get your Starbucks coffee or lunch BEFORE you drop off the car so you can observe the work. Don't just leave the car and expect everything to get done. Make sure they actually replace the filter......and with the correct one. Check the oil level yourself afterwards so you can see if they actually changed the oil and filled it correctly.

Glad to hear you found the air pocket and all is well.

Probably a wheel bearing. I think turning test is a better guide of which front wheel bearing is causing the problem.

The knocking sound hasn't really gone away. :-\ I need to record another round of it to compare between then and now to see what is different. And since the valve lash adjusters are hydraulic, there is nothing to adjust other than making sure they hold firm after pumping up with oil. And they all checked out following the replacement of a single dead one.

This is a very good point - you can't assume the window mechanisms are properly secured on the replacement door. In my 96 Legacy, the nuts that hold the regulator assembly to the inner door metal backed off. If these are loose (as well as poorly adjusted) then the window will not close correctly.

Hang in there, it can't be too bad. Check the stuff you took out to get to the plugs. 1. MAF sensor plug on the air cleaner assembly - check ALL connectors are plugged in. 2. Any hoses disconnected - vacuum to the valve cover or the intake 3. Plug order? I have to ask .

CVs can go a surprising distance even when contaminated after a boot splits. I think I drove almost 10K miles on mine. With the bad weather going on, this distance becomes much shorter. If you overdo it, it will require a wheel bearing change if a bad outer CV overheats the bearing. Check another boot - the one from the steering rack to the hub. This was the source of my rattle/clunk.

That spacer you are referring to was most likely a small clipping of a ball point pen ink insert. That worked perfectly for me with the Radio Shack bulbs. They way I look at it is if you REALLY hate the incandescent lifetime, then go to LEDs.

A comparison of my old motor's plastic plate and the new motor's aluminum plate. Interesting that the old motor's rear seal has held up quite well - especially considering I went through 2 front crank seals.

There are only four nuts/bolts holding the transmission to the engine. You might need a flex joint on your wrench to get to the nut on the lower left side (the side with the starter) There are four bolts that connect the flex plate to the torque converter on automatic transmissions. The flex plate is a thin metal disc that absorbs some of the driveline shock from the crankshaft to the torque converter. I also installed a CCR engine->http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=924535 You might want to use this checklist to make sure you remember what to remove and re-install as you go along. Staying organized will make the experience much easier. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59033 As you progress with your project, post updates on this forum. A lot of clever people on here can help guide you. And it is always interesting to see/read about other people's Subaru projects.

Make sure the factory gasket is removed - it is painted the same color as the plug and looks like part of the plug. If that was still on, then you are stacking two gaskets together - one good one bad. And torque it properly - 30 ft-lbs is spec for most of these engines. But even 15-20 will hold up fine.

I took off my 1996 Legacy's front factory mudguards to clean out the dirt that accumulates behing them in the fender. It was annoying to my car-wash obsessions because a little stream of dirty water always poured out from the seams between the front door and the front fender at the rocker panels. About 2 lbs of dirt came out. While my area does not have lots of road salt or snow to deal with, any place that does makes this area vulnerable to cancerous rust. So be warned! If you haven't done it before the snow starts, get the old stuff out! And make sure to clean this junk out periodically.

The old one was loose and floppy. It didn't have a "rattle" quality that I could feel and surprisingly little grindage. The joint was clearly contaminated though. But the sound of the rod banging on the outer rim of the socket made a very distinctive sound. And I recognize that sound as the "bang" I'd hear sometimes when stopping. The new one is much firmer. In fact you could hold the socket end and the rest of the rod would stay straight.

Well yesterday I finally put everything together. With any luck, my measurements were close to the original length. Since I plan on replacing the struts soon, I will get the alignment done then. This is a comparison of the Subaru OEM inner tie rod and the NAPA version. I like the additional flats on the inner end - makes it easier to crank on it when re-installing (and removing which I hope doesn't come up again:brow: ) I decided not to add extra grease since there was plenty already smeared on the joint. Anyway, everything is all back together.

Should be 3.6 ft-lbs per the 2.2L valve train article on Endwrench.com

Why would you use 96 Legacy L seats? They suck - they're hard, not supportive and generally uncomfortable. (Why did I buy this car again?:-\ ) I'd look at seats from a Legacy GT or a more current year.

I got a little delayed on starting this replacement due to a "re-do" of a shifter adjustment on my VW Cabriolet. But last night I got started and was able to remove the inner tie rod. I was pleased that the boot clamp and spring are reusable (no zip ties or new clamps needed). And boy that lock ring was something else.....a hammer and chisel got me through that. I used large vise-grip pliers to turn the tie rod and it was surprisingly easy to remove. I'm thinking of NOT replacing the outer tie rod while everything is in pieces. It moves smoothly and easily - arguably maybe a little too easily. It is not binding or leaking and the boot is good with plenty of grease. So tonight's plan is to measure out the threads to the existing length and put it all back together. One question - should I add additional grease (and what type?) to the clump that is already on the new inner tie rod?

Do not rule out a squeaky water pump bearing. If the pump is making this noise, then the next course of events will include a bearing failure. This can result in a dead waterpump and overheating - this condition caused by head gasket to blow. I really do hope all that squeaking is is idlers.

My inner tie rod boot on the steering rack split open. I had suspected as much since I had heard an occassional pop in the suspension while turning and stopping. After searching USMB, I found several useful threads, but none with the photos to show the total process. I guess I have the pleasure of doing this myself. So here is picture one. One useful link: Exploded diagram of the entire steering assembly. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33450&highlight=steering+rack And some close up photos of the inner tie rod from another forum: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13485186#post13485186 So the plan is to stop by the dealer to pick up a $35 boot to replace the torn one and get a $26 inner tie rod from NAPA (dealer is $80). And a whole replacement rack is over $400.

I've done some of the sound deadener on my 96 Legacy sedan after being somewhat inspired by the more involved installation on my friend's WRX->http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=712026&page=3&pp=25 I put on mat on all four doors. And then I put a layer of carpet padding under the inner panels and along the bottom of the rear seat. Overall road noise doesn't really go away - I think that is a factor of tires. Arguably sticking more mat under the floor and throughout the trunk will help - but cost and eventually weight becomes a larger factor. But the sound deadener did help isolate other exterior sounds like other people's loud stereos, loud truck engines, and to some extend some road noise. The real benefit I found is the tightened response on the speakers - they aren't working as hard to overcome cabin noise. It's peculiar that all exterior noises I hear are now through the GLASS and not through the doors. Plus is is really cool how solid the door feels - no ringing when you tap the outer door skin.