JPX

My bumper DIY link here will either invite you to do it yourself or scare you aware from doing it.

Here is a bit from my recent engine replacement: It was a hassle getting in - most oil seals are small enough to use a socket or something. This 4" or so thing kept getting ****-eyed. But I was able to set it in at the same depth the old seal was at. Basically it is flush with the block surface but just a little bit below about halfway down the chamfer.

I think you should look closely at the 2.2. I have lots of opinions on the 1996 2.2L since I have one. [/url] 2.2L motor is a good solid motor. It's the crap attached to it that dies and then screws everything else up. Alternator at 80K miles Wheel bearings all around 70K miles CV total collapse (rear) at 50K miles Front oil seal leaking - replaced at 75K miles and then again at 90K miles Waterpump at 90K miles and then again at 136K miles resulting in overheating and a blown headgasket. The headgasket thing is the waterpump's fault in my case.....and not the usual 2.5L headgasket thing you might have already read about. Okay enough of the whining.....I like the car overall. Large car with good standard features on the L trim - power locks/windows, cruise, TACH. In particular, it has plenty of legroom for the rear passengers versus the same year Accord/Camrys. Big trunk on the sedan. The 2.2L auto easily pulled my jetski trailer around for thousands of miles. I hate the front seat support - you'll need a little cushion for your back for long trips. I have some mild torque bind. I drove around with the FWD fuse for a while to get around it. I took out the fuse and haven't had a problem with it lately. The nice thing about the automatics is they have drain plugs so it is easier to change fluid (more frequently) because you can leave the pan on. Looking back, I should have bought a wagon for what I was doing. I don't think I will buy a new Subaru again. But I felt my 96 sedan was worth hanging onto enough that I put in a rebuilt longblockin February at 136K miles. The car is easy to work on, layout is very simple - with a bit more space around the 2.2L engine than a 2.5L. Good luck with you search!

Have you tried spacing the cross bars differently? Maybe move them all the way back when not in use? My Suburban has a crazy resonance when the cross cars are too far forward and too close together. Space them out and move farther back and the sound went away.

Don't forget to milk the upper radiator hose to squish the air along with all the useful advice you already received above.

Take a read on Skip's website.....if this doesn't scare you away, then you are fit for the DIY route. http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/Head_gasket_replacement.html I recently took out the entire motor for my 2.2L in January for it's head gasket mess. It was very straightforward to remove/replace. But I did a longblock replacement that spared me the gory details of messing with the valves, etc.

Make sure you have the seals for the knuckle as well as the bearings. A good machine shop will know that the seals need to be installed when pressing the new bearings in. They should observe how the old ones are oriented so the new ones go in the correct order. I think one seal needs to be loaded before pressing the bearing itself (or is that the rear knuckle?) The picture below is the rear hub, but the idea is similar. The CV/axle is the real bear. You need break loose the axle nut (and be able to re-torque it with a new nut at reassembly). You might have to the tap the outer side of the shaft to weasel it out of the knuckle. Be careful not to mess up your new bearing seal when putting the shaft back into the knuckle. If you intend to replace the axle as well, the spring pins (not found on my rear axles but are on the front) are supposed to be a total headache to drive out. Make sure you drive them out the correct direction. The shaft should pull out of the transaxle with a large flathead screwdriver or prybar. Oh, and hang up the brake caliper with a clotheshanger so you don't have to mess with disconnecting the hose. You can leave the strut assembly on the car, the the two bolts have to come off to take the knuckle off. Be ready to take on the ball joint and the steering tie rod as well. A pickle fork or ball joint separator will help here. Maybe this is a good time to change them as well? Tools: 2 foot breaker bar with 1/2" drive 4 foot cheater bar to slip on the breaker bar 22mm (is it?) for the axle nut balljoint puller/seperator or pickle fork

The plastic was washed, wiped down with acetone and then sanded with 800 grit to knock down the factory grain. I used Rustoleum (cheap!) plastic primer, silver metallic, and a SATIN clear coat. The primer fills easily. You could wet sand between coats if you are a perfectionist - but I skipped this. I kind of wish I used a darker silver like the new WRXs - it would have matched the Pioneer deck a little better too. I cheated a little on drying time and impatiently stuck it in my oven for a few minutes. Not too long, but enough to harden the paint faster and make everyone inside the house mad about the fumes. But at least I'm not as crazy as those guys who stick their headlights in the oven! It has held up great for a year so far - the clear coat is the key to taking on scratches.

Give the ashtray pocket a firm yank out. Underneath that are two screws that you'll need a shorty philips-head screwdriver to get them out. These were the stealth screws that caused me to break my bezel. This is a good time to give the fascia a little freshening up......it has been 10 years you know! Here is my 1996 Legacy in 2006!

Subaru OEM seals are a must. I had an independent put in my first crank seal and they had used some other seal supplier. It died 30K miles later and was leaking AGAIN. I did the second crank seal myself and it held up great until the head gasket conked out. Subaru OEM seals are a must.

If GM did anything with the Subarus like they do with the trucks, the head units now are somehow related to the security system. Maybe the new unit is looking for a alarm connection that your car doesn't have?

I've had trouble finding junkyards that have late model cars like this (I also have a 96 Legacy). So it depends on what is nearby. A new one is kind of expensive. But since it is something that either works or doesn't (it throws check engine light if it is broken), that might be something better new. Reference photos if you aren't sure where it is. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53882

Here is a thought on continuing to enjoy the Rover experience......keep it in the background for a hobby. Daily drives, stick with a Subaru (2.2L or 2000+ 2.5L). You'll enjoy the car experience more for day-to-day living and cost. It's okay to work on Rovers, but not "for-the-fun-of-it-when-it-is-your-daily-driver-with-a-4-year-old". Unless you really need the off-road capability or absolutely must have a Rover over everything else, you will find the Legacy platform (sedan, wagon, Forester) is just about right.

Might end up costing a bit more if you consider that replacing the wheel bearings would be a good idea while the axles are out.:-\

Well, on a 2.2L it is just to the left of the center of the engine towards the back (bellhousing). Click the picture below. The pile of leaves with a white connector sticking out is the knock sensor. I presume the 2.5L has a sensor in the same area.

I had a noisy waterpump (first one) that went on for a long time. Then one day the noise stopped.....5 minutes later the bearing and seal died and coolant started leaking out. Don't cheap out on the waterpump. Get the Subaru pump. I cheaped out when the original died and ended up with a dead 2nd waterpump that killed my headgasket.

So along these lines, would it help to loosen the engine mount bolts at the crossmember and re-seat the engine? Maybe this will change the resonant frequency?

These are pretty good commuter cars. Mileage is better overall in a Honda or a Toyota than a comparably equipped Subaru. But the AWD is the clincher isn't it? Watch out for head gaskets - if the car has had any history of coolant leakage, overheating or mixing oil with the coolant (check the reservior). This means checking out the water pump as well. Oil leaks - front crank and cam seals. Easy to spot since it drips right on top of the exhaust Y pipe just behind the crossmember. Timing belt change is usually a good idea if things progress this far. Wheel bearings - at 80K+ the originals are probably going to start going out. And get a small pillow for your lower back! Good luck with your purchasing decision!

This was exactly the same sequence of events that proved to be a dying alternator. Check your belt for a quick/easy fix. But if you have an original alternator on your 98, then it might be up for a new one.

And sure enough, it was the coolant sensor. I had forgotten to plug it in when putting the intake manifold back on the engine. Everything is all good now! :cool: Thanks Legacy777!

Thank heavens this post appeared tonight! While working on my 2.2L engine swap I ran across a CEL P0115. So I will definitely use Legacy777's photos to inspect things! :):):):):)

If you decide to do it yourself but don't have the right color, make it the right color and paint it! Here is the thread with my adventures with a bumper repaint. It wasn't that hard and was cheaper than a shop repaint, although admittedly not as good. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=862222&page=1&pp=25

You know the internet is a funny place where you are more likely to run into people that are going through EXACTLY what you are. I'm at the tail end of my CCR install for a 2.2L. My justification is similar to your assessment. The cost of a head rebuild along with all the other crap that inevitably needs to be replaced put it on par with a rebuilt engine from CCR.:-\ Here is the link to my adventure: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=924535 Please let us know what you decide!

So how did this turn out? On the edge of my seat with this thread!

You can hold them with a clean rag with a little rubbing alcohol. If you touch, just make sure to wipe off your prints. Lab gloves is a little overkill....but I still like!