Sonicfrog

I'm going in that direction. If the injectors were leaking, there would be more gas at idle as there is a longer pause in between injector firings, thus more fuel leaked into the cylinders at idle. I just ordered some from Rock Auto for 88 smacks with shipping.

Sure. As soon as it gets delivered and installed I'll give an update.

OK. Ran some "Guarenteed To Smog" stuff through the tank. Also, one thing I didn't do was to reset the ECU, which I assumed would readjust once I put the new parts in. I'm thinking that I wass wrong and should have done that. So either tomorrow or Tuesday, I'm gonna give 'er on emore go. If it doesn't pass, it may be time to let the girl go. God knows I've put her through enough.

Think we narrowed it down to the ignition switch. One morning, in frustration, I hit the steering console with my fist, then it started up. We have a switch on order from Rock Auto. Should be here in the next couple of days.

Yeah... Those guys are nasty! How come there aren't any of those fancy-schnancy bits of ghost detecting equipment on the Ghost-Chaser shows that will detect those???

Oh... I did put relay on the starter. I am getting 12 volts to the positive side of the coil. I tested the resistance of the coil, and that is right within the specs. I have put new eyelets on the wires connecting to the coil. When I test for spark, I have a wire with an alligator clip that I attach to the coil tower and run it into the cab where I am when trying to start the car. When it's sparking it ha a nice good arc. When not... Nothing. Right now, I just tested it, and it's sparking gangbusters.

I've replaced the disty, coil, cleaned the battery terminals, and yet, when it's cold in the morning, the car just won't start. It doesn't seem to be producing a spark. When the weather gets just a little warmer.... It turns right over. And just now, twenty mninutes after it failed to start, it turned right over. This one has me a bit stumped. I'll probably replace the ingition switch. Is there an ignition relay that could be a problem???? Any ideas?

New smog results.... Improved... But still failed. At idle, HC is down to 345 from 576, and CO is down to 1.29 from 8.76. So it's still runniing rich. I replaced the Ox sensor and the engine temp sensor. Plugs, disty and wires are new. The cats are less than two years old. I'm not sure where to go from here. It may finally be time to retire Murph.

OK.... Finally got around to having it smogged again. The tech was kind enough to do an off-line scan . I have replaced the plugs, wires, disty cap and rotor, plus replacing the t-stat (the old one was a 180 instead of 192 temp) and it still put out really bad numbers. It did improve a little bit, but I need it to improve a LOTTA bit. Not quite sure where to go from here. Will probably start with the O2 sensor, as that is the cheapest part on my list of possible problem parts. PS. I've checks for vac leaks... Can't find any. So... Here we go again. PS: High HC and CO means too rich, which would explain why my MPG is crap.

Gloyale.... How you been? I haven't been around for a good while. I'm a horrible person.

Well, my 1983 EA 81 Brat has been having a reoccuring problem over the last year. Every once in a blue moon, it would just stall. The problem is sudden loss of spark. I would check the wire connections on the coil, and then the engine would fire right up. Coils are inexpensive, so I replaced that this summer. All has been well..... Until now. This morning, it did it again. Stalled with no spark. I'm leaning toward the ignition control module. The disty I have is, I believe, the Nippon Denso version, which has the more expansive two-part modual. My question is, since the modules themselves are somehow more expensive than the entire disty, complete with module, would I have to buy the same type? Or is the Nippon-Denso and the Hitachi for that engine interchangable? I would think they woud be, but I never assume anything.... Especially when the car is involved. Thanks in advance Mike.

Yeah... It's multiport.

Just changed that about 700 miles ago.

And here we go with the Smog-Drama! After having a "bit of a problem" with the exhaust system last week... (fixed of course), Murphy, the 1987 GL-10 Turbo Wagon failed smog today. The problem is at idle / 954 RPM. CO MAX is 1.00 I'm at 8.76. HC MAX is 270. I'm at 576. The numbers on the high RPM are fine, at .32 and 51. I'm going to change the plugs, wires, disty... The usual subjects... And do a Seafoam treatment out in the country tomorrow for good measure. Both front and back CATS were replaced last year, and the OX sensor is pretty new also. Anything else I should look for?

I've got to do this on Murphy, the $500 1987 turbo Wagon. Am I correct that if I use the sealed bearings, i don't kneed to use the shim / spacer that floats around in the middle between the two bearings? Or am i confusing one shim with another?

First... Holy Crap! I love the new format of the USMB! Looks great! OK. Every year, when things cool down here in California, for reasons of which I have no idea, on Murphy, the $500 87 GL-10 Turbo-Wagon, I disconnect the electrics from the compressor, rendering the AC system inoperable. Today, i hooked everything back up and the system is working quite well. Here's the question. On my 94 Legacy, when you turn on the AC, the compressor turns on, then after a couple of minutes it turns itself off, as the compressor does not need to run full time in order to provide a cool environment. I think they do this so that the fuel economy not be as bad if the compressor is not running all the time. I would like to put some sort of timer control unit in Murph to make the compressor internittent when the AC is on. Has anyone ever done this. Does anyone know where the timer relay is on the Leggys so i could pull one from the bone yard. Thanks... And sorry I haven't been around much. I've been busy with jobs and music and other nonsense! Mike Alexander aka Sonicfrog.

bump again.

It was just a clutch adjustment. But good info on the leggy disk. Thanks.

Last time I had a leak, it was due to the drain tube for the sunroof being clogged. But that leak location was obvious!

I was planning on using the current P plate anyway. PS.. My other PS. should have read "PS. The spare clutch disk is in very good condition." Derp. PPS. I probably ought to check the play in the clutch cable first. I forget it's not hydraulic and I'm realizing i haven't adjusted that in quite a while. It just started to rain though, so that won't happen until tomorrow I suppose.

If it ain't one thing, it's another. The Clutch on Murphy the 87 T Wag is starting to slip. I do have a spare clutch plate from the 94 Legacy Alpine wagon. Does anyone know if they are compatible? PS. The spare plate is in very good condition. The last time I pulled the engine on Red, I pre-ordered the clutch assy. I forgot that I had installed a new clutch assy, when I bought the car a couple of years prior. I could have sent the new kit back, but decided to install it and have the other for a spare.

thanks again.

As i discussed in a previous thread, I have a short circuit on the accessory bus of Murphy, the 87 Turbo Wagon, causing the stereo, blower, and windshield wipers to operate even when the ignition switch is disconnected. The problem disappears when I pull the fuse on the blower, but once I turn on the car, the blower (heater fan) works even though the fuse is pulled. And he heater fan still works even if I unplug the blower relay. So it looks like i have a bit of rewiring to do. Short circuits can be such a pain!