Sonicfrog

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UPDATE: So yesterday, I took "Jake" in to the dealer to get the front brakes worked on. The rotors were definitely warped, and they replaced them and the pads of course. Also, they had a spare relay for the horn and put that in too.... No charge for any of that btw. Now, the horn works... And so does the cruise control! YAY!!!!! I'm thinking the CC must be tied to the horn circuit. I also replaced the dash bulbs with new 194LL's. The dash is rediculously easy to take out! Gonna look around for some LED dash bulbs soon enough. But for now, I'm happy with a brighter dash! Next... The stereo. I bought a JVC today, but didn't get a chance to install it tonight. Tomorrow. Also. I'm gonna pull one of the cam belt covers and see what condition the timing belt is in. I plan on doing a full engine reseal plus timing belt / pulley / water pump replace during Thanksgiving break. But if the belt looks bad, I'll replace it tomorrow.

Yep. Even with a new battery, the original Subie FOB is dead. The other spare FOB activates the system... Well the blinking lights says it does anyway, as does the security system activating and blinking if I enter the car without disarming. But the locks are not responding.

Hey everyone. Sorry i haven't been around for so long. I FINALLY got a teaching job, and I'm busier than heck!!!! I just bought a 2005 Forester with 141K miles to commute back and forth to work, and I have a few questions / problems. First... The problem. The original key fob doesn't work. There is a second fob that does sort of work. It will make the lights blink, but it won't lock or unlock the doors. The doors do lock / unlock using the button on the inside. Note that I discovered the previous owner removed the relay that controls the horn. Any ideas? Next, I would like to change out the instrument cluster back-lights to white LED type. What kind of bulbs does the dash use? . I'll have more later, but I'm starting with this.

Is the power steering pumps the same on the GL's and XT's? On Rock Auto, they list a kit for the XT, but not the GL. I'm rebuilding mine and things would be easier if I could just get that kit and be done with it.

bump

OK.... So if the crank angle sensor were going out.... Which it just did this afternoon.... Car died and is showing a code 11... Could THAT cause the weird timing issue?????

I'm looking at the same issue. What did you find out? Rock Auto has a kit for the 85 - 89 XT PS pump, but nothing for the GL. I'm trying to find out if this will work on my leaky PS pump.

Well... I've kind of given up for now. It's running fine, even though the timing is somewhere around 30 BTDC, the same as the OP. But I will come back to it in due time, cause I can't let something weird like this go unexplained.

I may have solved the problem. First... After not being able to start the car at all with either new ICM installed, I put the old one back on... And it fired right up. It appears that both of the new ICM's I got for real cheap are bad. They are supposed to be new, but I guess not. The one thing i did change was adding a grounding wire to the disty body. When I installed the new one last year, I didn't ground the thing, figuring since it's connected right to the engine, that should cover it. The more I thought about it, the more I realized it would probably not be as well grounded as I thought, and an extra ground never hurts. So far it's running fine. Here's hoping that that was the problem.

But there's no spark at the coil going out to the disty a all.... No pulse..

As some of the long-timers know, we have an 83 normally aspired EA81 BRAT. For a while, it would flat out stall, no sputtering, and then be able to start a few minutes later. I quickly determined that there was no spark. Last year, we replaced the coil and changed the Nppo disty to the Hitachi, complete with new Ignition Control Module. Then, for good measure, I replaced the ignition switch. It ran great... Until a few months ago. Then the problem came back. Now, I have once again replaced the coil and ICM, but still no spark. I am getting voltage to the coil, and have triple checked the wiring harness to the ICM. Clean circuit there / no shorts. I have checked the schematic and there doesn't seem to be any other component like an ignition relay that is in the main ignition line. I must be missing something,

I'm still wondering if maybe my timing light is somehow malfunctioning. I'm going to borrow one this weekend and check that reading against mine.

UPDATE. I just went through the entire timing procedure again..... Same thing. This is really weird. I was wondering if maybe my timing light is malfunctioning. But I'm not sure how it could, considering it's just a standard basic induction style light. Generally, either they work... Or they don't.

I'll do that when i get a chance. Right now, I'm putting together a road bike to be used in the 60 mile bike ride event this Saturday.

Post Revival!.... I'm having the exact same problem. I pulled the engine in Murphy, the 87 Turbo Wagon, to change the clutch. While I was at it, I installed new timing belts. I put everything together, placed the flywheel so the housing timing pointer is on the three lines, lined up the cam shaftdots with the valve cover / cam tower seam (I'm t-belt coverless) at 0 and 180 degrees, and when I put everything together and started the car.... It ran great. Only when I decided to fine tune the timing did I run into problems. When I first checked the timing with the light, I couldn't even find the timing marks. Once i found them, and timed the thing to 20 BTDC.... It ran like crap! I set the timing back to about where it was before, at what would be the 28 BTDC if the marks don't go out that far, and now once again it's running fine. Note: I also installed a new rear main seal, so I did pull the fly wheel off. But since the flywheel bolt pattern only allows the thing to go on in one specific direction... Well... Improper flywheel position couldn't be the problem. Just to be sure, I have checked the timing marks once again. Note. I've had several EA82, and done my fair share of t-belt replacements. I've put the disty in 180 degrees off before, and probably some other silly thing I can't remember at the moment, but this is a first.

Very nice!

The Legacy oil fill tube is one of my favorite mods. I popped the inserts out and widened the holes. Had to put oversized washers on the screws to hold down the pipe. And you have to make a gasket to fit. It's much MUCH better than the stock one. Very much worth doing.

Intercooler!!! FINALLY!!!!

Done! Interesting the difference in the acceleration. Coan't say that I notice much difference at lower RPMS. In fact, I think I have a wee bit more turbolag. Bit once I hit 3000 RPM, which was approaching the upper useful acceleration range, now it feels like things are just getting warmed up... It starts really kicking in! It's GREAT!

UPDATE.... After FOUR YEARS of sitting by while the world slowly turned, I'm FINALLY installing an intercooler! I have no idea how this escaped me for all this time, but a guy from the Fresno / Clovis area has been on this list since Sept 2006... Almost as long as I have been! Again, I have no idea how that's possible! Anyway, he ALSO has a GL-10 wagon just like mine.... With one exception. While I was sitting on my haunches doing nothing, he was beefing his Turbo Wag up to the hilt! But now he has to say good by to it and is parting it out. He contacted me while I was searching for a power steering pump, and in the process, he sold me his intercooler set-up. It's all pre-modded and pretty much plug-and-play. I'm installing at this very moment. Will let you guys know how it goes... Oh... And I'll take tons of pictures!

So this is what you'd get if you mated a Cadilac Cimarron with a Subaru GL 4 door.... It's a Subarron!!!! PS. The GL was a much better car! Oh... And this is horrible!... Funny, but horrible! One should never remind another that the Cimarron even existed... EVER!

Do you still have the PS pump? I may be needing one.

PASSED!!!!!!! When I was wrapping up the fuel injector repair, there was a vac hose I missed. It was to the vapor canister, and that apparently doesn't create enough vacuum to be heard, but does do enough to throw off the HC's if it's not connected. Note to self, do NOT try and finish auto repairs in the dark, as I did on Sunday. You tend to miss things, and a flashlight is no substitute for really good lighting. PS. I also threw on a new set of spark wires, just in case.

It's Feb 10. Got the new injectors in and replaced just about all the little vac hoses. Went in to get it smogged today and... Still didn't pass!!!! However, there is encouraging news. Where before the HC and CO at idle were so far off it was a gross polluter, now the CO is good and only the HC at idle is high. It's at 248, and max is 120. But it's down from the 576 mark at the first test. The car runs so much better and quieter than it has in a long long time. I have replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, fuel injectors, O sensor, temp sensor, a bazillion little vac hoses. I didn't replaced the spark wires as they weren't that old, but I may just do that anyway, because maybe they aren't as new as I'm thinking. I'm also going to do the seafoam treatment. So if you're in the Fresno area, and you see a huge puff of smoke out in the wilderness today, it's probably me!!!