Sonicfrog

OK. So here is the question - Does the hot line from the blower fuse go directly to the relay, then blower motor, then to the switches? I need to track down this short and bypass it. Looks like a wiring diagram is in order.

Are there four more relays under the dash, other than the ones between the fuse panel and the steering wheel?

Yes. I do mean blower. On the fuse panel, is does say fan though. You're suggestion makes sense... Now... Where is the blower relay? Except, it can't be the relay if one of those is one of the four i already unplugged. Interestingly enough, when I have the blower fuse pulled, the blower still works when the key is switched to ACC mode. Wonder if it will work if I also pull the stereo fuse? Will do more diagnostic tomorrow.

Murphy, the $500 87 GL-10 Turbo Wagon, with the back spring Accord mod. I really do have to tint the windows one of these days!

I recently did the Accord rear springs mod on my 87 GL-10.... OMG, It is so fun to drive!!!!!

Found the circuit with the leak..... It's the fan circuit. After noting the bus containing the wipers, fan, mirror motors, and radio all shared the + feed from the ignition, i pulled each of the fuses one at a time. Lo and behold, as soon as I pulled the fan fuse the wayward devices shut down. Of course, now, all of a sudden.... Everything is working properly. Go figure.

I've been the only one to modify these circuits, And I haven't done anything to any of the accessories since i installed this stereo about two years ago. It doesn't affect IGN mode, as the headlights and warning light check only come on when the key is in the proper position. I'm looking at the fuse panel right now, but I don't see anything wrong there. Now that I'm deeper into the diagnostic, I have found there are four relays right under the dash. Unplugging all of those does not solve this problem.

bump

Tonight, the Gremlins attacked!!!!! I was driving Murphy, the $500 87 Turbo Wagon, and went to a store. When i went inside I had turned the car off, and everything was, well, off. When I came back outside 15 minutes later.... The car stereo was on. Of course, the keys were in my pocket, so I definitely didn't leave them in the ignition. Got in the car, turned the ignition, started the car, then turned it off.... and a bout 3 to five seconds later, the stereo came back on! Hmmm. A mystery! I was thinking that the ignition switch might be the problem. But no. When I got home, I disconnected it, and the stereo still stayed on. OK. I was thinking the relay for the accessory circuit was right on the inner dash in the driver side. Pulled the two molex connectors from them... And the radio was still on. Pulling the radio fuse finally shut it down. Since the windscreen wipers also were suddenly working sans key, I'm thinking that the accessory relay is stuck in the closed position. If someone could be so kind as to pointing out the location of the beast, I would be most grateful.

bump.

BTW... The IC is an odd beast. It's off a VW Corrado. It was originally wheel well mounted, but mine will be in the usual place.... The spare tire pit!

I'm also in the radiator camp. If you can afford spending the extra few bucks, go with a dual core radiator. More efficient at doing the job of cooling.

I just got the replacement turbo for Murphy the $500 87 Turbo Wagon. Gonna be installing that in a few minutes. I have had in my possession for some time an intercooler just waiting to be installed. I've had it for a year, but other things came up and I never installed it, them when I realized the turbo was starting to go south, I figured I'd wait until I replaced that before adding the IC. My question is this, how do you hook up the blowby valve? I've seen a few pics here on the list of already installed IC's with blowby valves, but have not come across the diagram showing the actual installation. It's probably here somewhere, but I have yet to fine it. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you scoobiedubie for the turbo! Just got it delivered and will have it on Murph this afternoon. After spinning the newer one, I realize even more just how mucked up the other one was!

will the turbo from a Leggy fit?

PS. What ticks me off is that one of the EA82T engines I bought a number of years ago actually had the turbo still connected.... And I'm pretty sure I threw it away thinking I'd never need it!

For a while, the turbo in Murphy, the $500 87 Turbo Wagon, has been a bit noisy. Well, now the power has really started to drop, along with the mileage. Pulled the front intake off, and yeah, it's got the wobbly wobblys. Anyone happen to have a turbo unit for sale???.

Kennedy Min could be considered a hermit point!

Wow! Now I'm definitely gonna have to redo my cluster to keep up!

What did you use to drop the rear diff to a better height?

On the rear spring mod using the Honda Accord spring - I just did that one! It's pretty cool! My rear is a couple of inches higher now. I used the springs for the front of a 1988 Honda Accord. I saw someone suggest to get the ones from a car with a manual tranny and no A/C, as that car is about 300 lbs lighter than the auto tranny and the spring is not quite as stiff.

Certainly sounds like a CV with a hitch in it. I had something similar on one of my Subes a while back.

.... That is kind of redundant, isn't it!

Thanks for the pointer. Am I giving you flak? No. It's not as if this is some sort of personal attack or anything. We just disagree on a couple of details. And, BTW, when we are disguising grounding the shield wire at the knock sensor end, I don't consider the engine block a ground. I would have grounded the wire to the chassis, which is where the other end is also grounded to.

The important this is that Murph Lives!!!!!