Sonicfrog

Does the tranny brackets on the bottom line up too?

Well the 5 speed AWD tranny in Red, the $300 Alpine wagon, is getting progressively more noisy. Sounds like a bearing in the tranny is starting to go south. I'm finding it hard to locale a tranny from any of the normal import engine shops, and nothing has popped up here on the parts list, so I'll more than likely pull one from the bone yard. Will a second gen tranny also fit, or do I have to go with a 90 - 94?

I ran the car for a few minutes. While the volt meter on the dash read somewhere around 16v, my more accurate digital volt meter indicated a 13 V charge between terminal. I'm thinking that the resistance on the FL terminal may be causing a false reading on the dash. As of a week ago, there was a 92 Loyale in the bone yard with an intact FL housing. Hope to get that tomorrow and see if that cures the problem. In the mean-time, to be on the safe side I'm not driving Murph until I get this resolved. PS. I didn't expect this thread to generate the response it has. It's cool when that happens! Wish my blog would do that more often.

May have found the problem... bad connection at the black fuseable link. The link itself wasn't blown, but one of the terminals was making a bad connection and caused some scoring of the terminal. I filed that and got it clean. Am going to find a new link and see if that will fix things..... UPDATE: Couldn't find a new fuseable link. Put a new terminal end on the burnt one. Now the alternator seems to charge... after I've revved the engine to about 5000RPM. The black fuse is very warm to the touch.... Too much. Will get a new fuseable link housing in the next few days and see if it helps.

Hmmm, I always thought the voltage regulator was built into the alt..... Which was one of the differences between a generator and an alternator.

Bummer. Just had the new alt checked... It passed. Now will have to look at other electrical issues.

So, I've known that the alt on Murphy, the 87 Turbo Wagon, has been going south for some time. The charge on the volt meter would get lower, showing that the battery is losing charge. Then, if I rev the engine, the alt does kick in, but charges at a higher voltage than desired, about 16.5 volts. This last week, it just stopped even doing that. So Friday I got a new alt from Autozone.... and the alt is still not charging. I'm assuming the new one is also bad... Hey, it happens. Is tere anything else I should look for?

That's a wonderful idea! I think I'm gonna have to try it! But I'll grab the hub assy too, just in case. Since it's half off.... PS. GD, what does your avatar say under the Skeptic line? (I'm a skeptic too).

Will the front tone gear from a 96 Legacy fit on a 94 legacy? The ABS system on Red, the $300 dollar 94 Alpine Wagon is broken. There is a 95 at the bone yard that has ABS, and the ring is just sitting there waiting for me to pull it. Oh, and it's half-off days this weekend, so I have to find something to buy!

I know power is not getting to the fan. Tested it, it's good.

Mine won't come on when I turn on the A/C. I've checked the fan.... It's good. I've bypassed the thermoswitch on the radiator. Still no go. Where is the relay that controls it? A/C does work, and the car is none other than Murphy... the $500 87 Turbo Wagon. PS. I "could" do some creative wiring, but would rather not if I can help it.

Ding Ding Ding!!!!!!! I was wondering why my brakes were feeling squishy, and the steering started to get odd. Somehow, the castle nut for the halfshaft sheared off the kotter pin and came loose. my wheel was wobbling to the point that it sheared through the caliper bracket. The hold down washer for the hub pretty much destrotyed the threads of the halfshaft beyond repair, so I had to get a new one, along with new brake pads and rotors. It's really annoying, as the money that was going to go for a new 5 string Peavy DynaBass is now being spent on the new parts!!!!! Grrrrr! Oh, you won a virtual 60 plasma TV.... or a virtual rocket ship, which ever you'd like! Hey..... That's the beauty of virtual! You could have just about anything you want as a prize! :banana:

What's this part, and why should it, under any circumstances, NOT be used. Virtual prizes will be given for the first person to answer correctly! And yes, it came off Murphy, the $500 87 Turbo Wagon, thus reinforcing why I named it Murphy in the first place.

If XT's are somewhat common in your area, you might go to one or two of the J-Yards and see if there is one that is intact. Examine, take pics, and you're off to the races.

I was thinking about replacing the outer CV joint cup, the part with the threads. I rally don't want to replace the whole half shaft if I can help it.

Would the front of a regular GL halfshaft work? There is a good one at the boneyard. Also, I might replace the part that holds the rotor in place (has the 4 lugs for the wheel). Are those the same from GL to GL-10?

Oh well. It was a nice thought. No chance on rethreading. Too much damage.

My front CV axle has stripped threads. The castle nut sheared through the Kotter pin in the process. Not sure how this happened, but the axle / CV joints were replaced eight months ago. I would blame the mechanic, but since that was me, well...... Anyway, I happen to have a rear CV half shaft laying around with good threads. Instead of getting yet another whole half shaft, I was wondering if I could simply swap the wheel hub end from the rear axle to the front one. And yes, it is on Murphy, the $500 87 Turbo Wag..... It's why I call 'er Murphy. Strange things like this always seem to go wrong.

What GD said. Use the manifold from the car that's getting the newer engine. That way you won't have to swap the wiring harness or ECU from the Loyale into the RX.

It's all swapable, with this exception: Drivetrain stuff does not swap IF one car is a turbo and the other is not. Transmission front differential and front half shafts used 25 spline count on the axles, where non-turbos used 23. Also, the rear drivetrain gearing is different - 37 to 1 for the turbo, 39 to 1 for the non turbo. Also the Y-pipe on the exhaust is different. TTBOMK though, all interior parts are swapable, though I'm sure I'll remember that one thing that doesn't AFTER you've already bought it! .

Yep. I think I have a spare set. Could sell em to you, maybe $20 for the set (+ shipping)

Problem Solved! The CEL finally stayed on and the LED sobered up. It gave me a code 22 - bad knock sensor. Turns out I didn't fasten the connector to the sensor as well as I thought, and it worked its way loose after a month. Made sure it clicked into place and now there is no more CEL.... Yay!

Except the CEL is also going on and off too. And it's not in sync with the ECU.

...And now it's doing the weirdness again.

OK. Now it's giving me a readaable code - 4 short flashes. My research says that tells me there are no stored codes. Will keep tabs on this.