Sonicfrog

Zart. This will open a whole new can of worms (good worms), but.... have you thought of ditching the timing belt covers and going naked? Many of us do (myself included). It makes it much easier to remedy situations such as being off a tooth.

It's a Ford eh... won't run properly.... How could you tell the difference???

I just dealt with a similar problem a week ago. I had replaced my old engine, and while I was at it, I replaced my old 163Km injectors with newer ones I had laying around. After I installed them and put the car back together, it wouldn't start. I wasn't getting any fuel and was thinking that the fuel pump maybe wasn't working. Easy way to check gas flow. First, pull a sparkplug. Crank the engine a couple of time then check to see if you smell gas. If you don't smell gas, do this: (1) Take off the gas line at the rail that comes from the gas filter, and with the line safely placed in a jar, have a friend ever so briefly start the car. If everything is working you should get a nice slow of gas coming out of hose. (2) Now you need to check to see if the injectors are opening. Take a couple of wires and connect a 9 volt battery to the injector terminals. You should hear a nice little click. If you don't, then the injector is frozen. Check all the same way. When I did test # 2, I was really bummed. None of mine clicked. I was pissed because my first thought was that I would have to tear the rail apart, and reinstall the old injectors, and I soon realized that one of the old ones was nowhere to be found. It probably got thrown away. Then i started thinking, could ALL of the new injectors be bad, as in the coils that open the tiny solenoids on each one be shorted out? That seemed unlikely. I realized that, since the newer injectors were sitting for so long, they may just be stuck, and the 9v battery just didn't have enough juice to unstick them. So I got a longer wire and ran it to the car battery. Presto! After a few times rapidly opening and closing the circuit, one of the injectors started to click! Did the same procedure to all, and Viola! The car started right up.... After I fixed my screwed up disty timing. I swear, I always do that!

If you can find one, the front springs on the RX coupe are stiffer than the standard Subie set-up. I did the swap, and lucked out to find an RX in the bone yard with both springs. Oh, I would definitely get new struts though. It's amazing the difference that makes.

For a year or so, the front driverside would deflate overnight, and I'd wake up to find the car listing on one side, as if it were drunk. After a minute, it would normalize and all would be well. But one day, the system completely failed. As money was an issue, and the repairs on the pneumatic system can be costly, I took the advice of many on the list, and replaced the air suspension with a standard one. I really liked the way the air suspension handled, but I love the standard one too. I installed the correct oil sensor, and all is well.

Miles, I was driving home from a job, and that very thought occurred to me.... what if I installed the wrong sensor? It dawned on me that the variable resistor sensor would be the bigger of the two.... Duh! I did indeed install the on / off one, thinking that was the variable one. A few years ago, I chucked the crappy digi-dash for the analogue. I never bothered to pull the old pressure sensor, so I had both installed. Sad thing is, the engine install was delayed because the 1/4 port for the smaller sensor was plugged, and I couldn't get the damned plug out. So I had to modify an adapter to make it fit. Now my beautiful modification has turned out to be all for naught. Will install the correct sensor once the engine cools a bit. About the mystery black wire.... It is disconnected and I'm not noticing anything amiss on the electrical side of things. I'm thinking it may go to the suspension air pump, which is no longer in use since I converted that to the good ol' RX strut and spring assembly. Until I can figure out what it might go to, I'm going to leave it off the grid.

OK. I got the new(er) engine started in Murphy, the 87 turbo wagon, It starts and runs fine. But I do have a problem.... a mystery wire. It is a 16 gauge black wire that runs right along where the engine harness by the battery. It has a small disconnect. It is long and I suspect it may be a ground on the engine for the oil pressure sensor.... Oh, that is the other odd thing. The pressure gauge worked fine when I had the old engine in. Now, when you turn the key to start, the needle goes to max pressure. When you start the car, the needle will quickly go to the low end and bottom out. I'll take pics of the wire tomorrow.

I may go to the bone-yard this week-end and pick up some injectors from a 280 z. They're the same size but have a higher fuel delivery capacity.

So I got the engine together, tried to start it..... cranks but won't give a hint of turning over. After checking spark and timing, my next line of attack was fuel delivery. I'm getting fuel to the rail, but nothing into the cylinders. Turns out those lower miles injectors were dead. I checked by connecting them to a voltage source and listening for the tell-tale "tick". I get nothing with all four injectors. I check the testing methodology on the old injectors, and they open and close just fine. No, do I just swap the old injectors back in, or get new ones? Performance improvement wise, are new ones worth the cost?

So, I'm about to put the new engine into Murphy, the $500 87 T-Wag, and have a dilemma. A while back I had chunked the crappy Digi Dash for the analogue one. I installed the variable oil pressure sensor in the quarter inch port on the oil pump, and left the old idiot oil sensor connected, so the idiot light on the warning light console would not come on. On the new engine, the port for the variable pressure sensor is plugged, and that plug is stuck and can't be removed. So I modded a fitting for the idiot oil sensor and mounted it there. Now I have no idiot sensor. Here is the question: What do I do with the wire for the idiot sensor? Should I ground it out, or will I need to add some resistance to the line? I know I could just take the idiot light bulb out, but after all the work on replacing the engine, I'm not in the mood to pull the dash. Any suggestions?

I have my eyes on this one..... but the price is probably a bit out of my range, all things considered.

Crap! Broke a stupid intake manifold bolt. That happened the first time I worked on this car! It is why I named it Murphy, because things kept on Breaking!!!!

I took pictures.... and they suck. Here is what I can tell you. Top Line, from black sensor, connects to top pf intake manifold. The line below that connects to both the gas canister line in the other picture and the air intake that leads to the turbo. The line coming from the firewall goes into the relay pack where the other two hoses are. Hope this helps.

Would spraying some MAP cleaner on them do the job?

Crap. I'm sorry I didn't get the pic today. I'm taking my engine apart tomorrow. I get pics then and get them to you.

So I'm gonna change my engine tomorrow. I have some spare injectors that I know have less miles on them than the old ones. i am going to put new hoses on them tomorrow. What should I use to soak the tips of the injectors in to clean and condition them?

I'll help you in the morning... about 9:30 pacific time. I'll take some pics of my EA82AT

Please let me know what you think of the swap. How does the acceleration feel compared to the old engine. My new one will be delivered around noon. Won't be able to get much done till the week-end

My suggestion...... 35 mph is probably a bit too fast. I usually don't go more than 25 in the snow in the Sierra Nevada's. Sliding off the edge of a mountain curve is not going to get me home any faster.

I've bought several from them. Never once had a problem.

For an extra $30 I "could" be convinced to take a trip to Mojave, or maybe meet in Bakersfield. I'll get in touch when I have the engine replaced

Just curious.... are you able to have kids????

Yep. After having to deal with burning oil, persistent TOD, and oil leaks that just won't quit, I've decided to go ahead and get a new(er) long block for Murphy, the $500 87 T-Wag! Purchased it from Attarco in Sactown, CA for $450. They had the engine in stock and deliver for free to Fresno, so I figured I couldn't pass it up. I've bought several engines from them and all have been great. If all goes well, I will be pulling the thing this week-end. If anyone wants a used engine for a project car or to rebuild, I'll sell it for $100 + shipping. It was also an imported engine and probably has 100,000 mi on it. I had a bad overheat on it a few summers ago, and that was when the persistent TOD started and oil consumption increased. That said, the engine runs fine but I just don't have the time to do the rebuild to get it back in shape.

I'll join you guys, representing the Fresno Subaru Junky Club.... consisting of me, and.... me.

I like the orange digi in the picture. As a geek and tech-head, I agree those do look cool... very space-age. I have a Sub that had a digi-dash. Unfortunately, it was not the cool one pictured above. It was the lame green one that came with the 87 GL-10's. God, compared to the orange ones, they are quite boring. On the plus side, it's my understanding that the orange ones were very tempermental and would short out if you sneezed. The lame green ones, though lame, were much more durable. Anyway, Yes, I ripped mine out and did the analogue swap. And yes, this conversion can take some time. Mine too three week-ends.