manxsta

thankyou....

Here,s a simple question, are the ea 82 head gaskets the same for all ea82 engines? turbo- multi point- sigle point- and carbed???

sounds like you hit the nail on the head..i would say it is a head gasket at the least...but hopefully only that..bubbling out the rad will be the next indicater if its pumping compression in the cooling system, this will help you determine where the leak may be ..cheers

Hi, replacement is easy,knock the joint apart with a tie rod remover..or just a hammer struck on the eye of the hole.. mark where the old one wound off from and wind the new one on....and your done...the hardest part is getting used to no play...

Hi ,i have fitted in an ea 81 radiater ino a friends ea82-t wagon due to him not being able to afford a ea82 rad..its not to much trouble,but for the hose to the water pump,its a little tricky but not really a problem..

Hi all..in australian delivered subi,s..we dont have push button 4wd d/r ea82,s.....they all have this neatly tucked away lever on the centre console and it always works...but the recurculated air control on the dash is a vacuum button..this does not seem to give any drama..though..:cool:

Hey Habib, that item you speak of is not a preasure reg or one way valve...whatyou have there is a fuel damper..it give your fuel system suspension..and takes out the harsh pulse,s that occur when injecters open and close.....just fit your old one and it will be good to go..there is not much inside them but a spring and a diapram..but if you dont use one the rail preassure will jump around a bit..and maybe cause minor hick ups..cheers:burnout:

sure will..i think calebz might be onto somthin though...when im light on the throttle..say a third to a half...its only on 5 psi boost..and all is fine...mind you there is no shortage on power..its just when you ask for it all at full throttle is when it shows up..and only in second gear onwards.. it doesnt have the usual wgsc ( waste gate solinoid ) at the turbo. just a small hose form the turbo to the waste gate diaphram...and 2 vacuum ralated solinoids on the drivers strut tower...right hand drive...i think one is for the boost light and the other???? i dont know...

the usual 7.5psi.. fuel rail preasure is 30 psi with vacuum connected...and 45psi with out.. i have nt done any fuel pressure tests whilst this happens though....:-\

Wait, try this before you junk it....it sounds like no-one before you knew what was going on with this little subi..soooo they may have turned this and pulled that,in the hope of a quick fix..before you start it next time..turn the airspeed bypass screw on the throttle body..out 2 turns or so from seating..this should give you an acceptable idle.....then i would check your ignition timing..being FI, the cpu may need to have the 2 green plugs connected and the timing reset ...i know this may not work..though the engine has turned when the timing was out on the cams..so the ecu might be trying to correct itself once the engine warms up and ecu is fully operational , cheers

subject matter: ea82-t.....What is normal for a turbo engine? When i power off in my subi,i can push the throttle all the way to the floor in first..all good to 6600rpm...get to around 5000rpm or so in second also with the throttle fully depressed,and the engine cuts out then the power comes back on,and continues to do this as long as the pedal is floored... on the otherhand..i can drive at one third - one half throttle and every gear is clear and crisp to around 6600rpm....(although i have never been to 6600rpm in 4th and 5th ) with no problems at all. could this be a boost or fuel preasure drop? Does this seem to be the norm for these engines ..or does mine have some issue? :-\ cheers

HI YALL, Today, my ea82-t decided the front pulley & bolt on the crank was not required any longer, i was at a busy intersection ,waiting.... waiting.. yes..i saw my gap in the traffic,without hesitation,i launched my subi across the highway. halfway across i thought it was meltdown time,the handbrake light came on and then dimmed as did the alternater light ,and 1 or 2 others in random order....(just like right before the plumes of electrical smoke) my first thought was WTF! Then a notion of... but everything is still going as it should... i was still accelerating while all this was still being computed by my brain....the lights repeated this thru 3 gears,then i realised it would be best if i pulled over...i instantly got out after popping the hood,and expecting to see the positive on the battery arcing its way thru the radiater support..or the nearest earth possible..i then saw the problem...the front pulley was leaning against the water pump pulley..and nothing was turning....the front timing belt was itching to jump off..and thoughts of engine damage .....i quickly remembered these are clearance engines..and damage would not occur....so i had 5 miles or so to get home..i babied it home,after a little time to cool down and evertything was cool ...after all the madness i went back and searched for the bolt...( in another car ) and what did i find..1 crank pulley bolt 2 car,s back from where i pulled up....it must of fell off as i pulled over...any ways..i remember the locating pin was not fitted to this engine and so..let this be a lesson to me..im going to fit a pin so this wont happen again..and oh yeh lock tight the bolt too!!

MMMM How is the fuel economy now? if will be getting more fuel now so if its using heaps of juice..send it back a little..this is fine tuning...cheers

Hi MM..if your getting water in the exhaust..then this means your should also be getting compression into the radiater...check for bubbles when the radiater is full..if you dont see any bubbles..i would remove the intake man..and check the gaskets..second guess would be to block any water pipe to the manifold..and see if the problems stops.also check your spark plugs first and this may tell you which side it is occuring on..the cleaner ones should be where the water is,correct me if im wrong guys .....

Hi Vice man, 1 product i would highly recomend is..slick 50 or nulon e30..these products are pure teflon,and provide superior protection for 80000k..500ml is all you need to treat your engine..at around $30 and after 1500k your engine is fully protected...they did some test,s where they drained the oil of a treated engine and drove it with no sump plug..or oil pressure..and no oil....for 1000k and the engine did not sustain any damage...proven test,s,reduce friction producing more power and runs smoother ,cooler..anyhow..thats one more option ..cheers

I did plan on taking the turbo engine for another project and installing a carbed ea82......so i guess ide need part of the loom....upon installation of the turbo into its new body,also, ii was keen to fit an aftermarket ecu...so i could eliminate the maf...and run a map instead, then fit a pod straight onto the turbo inlet....this would be in a sadnrail so an intercooler probly wont be needed as i only plan to run stock boost... but with the wiring (i guess ill find out along the way) does anyone have an idea on how much or little i can leave in .. can i plug my n/a wiring in along the way somewhere..or do i reef the lot out???

Hi yall, i know this may go against all natural instinct,BUT, im removing the ea82-T engine from my 89 wagon and installing a stock n/a ea82 engine. And what ide like to know is, 1/ how much of the wirng harness should i remove? 2/ is there anything i should know like,is the turbo box different or not...and are the ratio,s the same etc..i have a second ea82 wogan 89 model thats been jacked 2inches or so:D ...everything should be there for the job, dash,wiring etc....any tips would be great ...cheers.

Hi chim, i had the same problem with my rx wagon at one stage..it turns out the timing was set to 0 degree,s instead of 20 btdc..and on the distributer side of the engine, the cam was advanced 1 tooth to many..i looked for days before i found these rpoblems..and once readjusted all was well again...i hope this works for you..cheers, from australia.

Hi there ausubaru92....i think i know what the problem is...i recently bought a turbo wagon and it had the same rpoblem as yours...it would start then stop...and had the 12v on each side of the injector plugs..it turned out to be the efi harness on the engine was not earthed well enough. thus not giving injector pulse..and only giving an initial pulse enough to leak some fuel in but not enough to keep running...once i had repaired the bad earth..away it went and i never had any problem since..this one sat for a while also...i am a mechanic and it did have me stumped for the day..i hope this fixes your problem..cheers